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The Hublot Square Bang Unico

The Hublot Square Big Bang was the brainchild of savvy marketer Jean-Claude Biver. Launched in 2005, its burly case, extroverted personality and fusion of different materials have consolidated the Big Bang as the brand’s flagship model. Last year, the Big Bang welcomed a sibling known as the Square Bang Unico, with, as you have intuited, a square case. During Watches & Wonders 2023, Hublot unveils three new editions of the Square Bang Unico in black and white ceramic cases and an impressive transparent sapphire crystal case.
Judging by the popularity of the Hublot Square Big Bang, taking the genetic traits of the Big Bang and reallocating them inside a square-shaped case seems to have worked. All the manifest personality quirks of the Big Bang are featured on the Square Bang: the six H-shaped titanium screws in the bezel, the modular sandwich construction of the case with its lateral protective bumpers, rubber-clad chrono pushers and crown, and the mandatory ‘fusion’ of high-tech materials. Although the press pictures don’t reveal this detail, it would seem that the pushers of the sapphire case do have a protective rubber coating, but the crown does not.
The new Hublot Square Big Bang trilogy has slightly smaller dimensions than the 2022 models, and the water-resistance has been decreased from 100m to 50m. With its 41mm diameter and thickness of 12mm (compared to the 42mm x 14.5mm of 2022 models), the ergonomic case is now reworked in three flavours – black ceramic, white ceramic and sapphire crystal. The ceramic cases feature contemporary microblasted surfaces combined with polished bevels, while the contours of the sapphire crystal case are polished.
The openworked dial offers a partial view of the mechanics, including the column wheel in an aperture at 6 o’clock and an entirely exposed date wheel. With a running seconds ring at 9 o’clock and a sapphire disc at 3 o’clock for the 60-min chronograph register (tinted in the two ceramic models), the date window magically materialises beneath the chrono register at the 15-minute position. The indices are applied to a peripheral flange and, like all the hands – except for the central chronograph seconds – are treated with Super-LumiNova. The central chronograph seconds has a Hublot logo-shaped counterweight and a skeletonised oblong tip.

The curved ergonomic caseback reveals Hublot’s HUB1280 Unico manufacture automatic flyback chronograph calibre with a column wheel. With a frequency of 4Hz/28,800vph, the 354-part movement delivers a robust 72-hour power reserve.
The new Hublot Square Big Bang models are fitted with structured rubber straps and a titanium deployant clasp. Hublot’s simple One Click interchangeable system makes it possible to personalise the watch.

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Hublot’s First Collaboration With Artist Daniel Arsham Is A Droplet-Shaped Pocket Watch

Hublot has recruited contemporary visual artist Daniel Arsham into its collaborator fold. Last week it released the Arsham Droplet, the replica hublot watches for sale world’s first sapphire crystal pocket watch – and Arsham’s first timepiece as an official Hublot ambassador.

The Droplet can be worn/used in three different ways: as a pocket watch, a pendant, or a table clock. Crafted from titanium (the case), rubber (bumpers) and sapphire crystal (a Hublot specialty), it measures 73.2mm (length) x 52.6 mm (width) and is 22.5 mm thick. The shape of the pocket watch is an asymmetrical droplet, unusual in itself when you think about the fact that, outside of Cartier, 99% of timekeeping devices are perfectly symmetrical. Timekeeping is a symmetrical business!
Presented replica hublot watches for sale with two newly Arsham-designed titanium chains, each featuring Hublot’s double “one-click” system, the links on the chain mirror the bubble-like structure created inside of the sapphire case, which looks almost like a microscopic close-up of foam bubbles. The piece can be worn multiple ways from a necklace to a pocket watch, or displayed as a sculptural centerpiece on its decorative titanium and mineral glass table stand. There are of course Daniel Arsham-branded touches all over the timepiece: the chain, the color, the Arsham monogram stamped on the surface and the use of the Arsham studio green. We can see, loud and clear, that this is an Arsham collab piece.
The timepiece/pocket watch/sculpture (I really don’t know what to call it) comes equipped with manual winding caliber Meca-10, which boasts a 10-day power reserve. I’m not sure anybody needs 10 days of reserve for their sapphire crystal pocket watch, but hey, this is Hublot and more is more. Despite looking materially techy, the timepiece has an organic feeling to it. The droplet feels smooth in your hands – a tactile little ticking organism that you can caress and grip. It’s soothing.
The Droplet is a bold departure from traditional Swiss watchmaking; I mean surely that’s expected from this collaboration. The MO here is to disrupt. Arsham (much like Hublot) is divisive. He can often inspire an eye-roll amongst those who consider themselves discerning culture consumers. But, Arsham is also one of the most globally recognized living artists. What’s unique about him in this context is that his art does in fact bear a relationship with the concept of time in his exploration of decay, specifically the aesthetic of erosion on modern objects.

There is no empty ambassador spiel about his “relationship with time,” because replica hublot watches for sale his point of view on the subject feels worth listening to. “So much of my work is about thinking about the past and connecting it with the future – it’s like mixing times,” Arsham said during the launch last week. “This object looks like something from the past, it recalls this way of telling time that’s from another era, but it feels like a kind of technology of the future… the watch is more than just an object to tell time, it’s a sculptural proposition.”
Working with world famous contemporary artists has thus far been a successful formula for Hublot. There is always a very clever method to the brand’s madness. Undoubtedly Hublot wakes up every morning and thinks “what can I do differently today?” – a brazen stance for any Swiss watch brand. But the ripple effect of creating a watch with a globally recognized artist means exposure to corners of the consumer public that would simply never notice you otherwise. And selling a run of 100 LE watches doesn’t seem like a hard task, given the breadth of the artists’ existing fanbase. These sorts of collaborations, if done sparingly enough, can really only do good for Hublot.
Arsham, himself, is an eccentric creature. He often wears replica hublot watches for sale the same cream or beige colored uniform, the same baseball cap and the same orange tinted or black shades every day. He is a celebrity figure who maintains an enigmatic stage persona. As an observer, the Daniel Arsham effect feels like it’s all been very carefully constructed. His behavior, his speech delivery, his product, the partnerships he takes on – it’s all part of a very well thought out and lucrative Daniel Arsham Studio ecosystem.
No doubt Arsham has a singular point of view, a view which many respect. But perhaps his greatest achievement has been to capitalize so successfully during this era of collaboration, wielding dollar profit and celebrity from his personal branding and style more than his actual art. The same can be said of Murakami. Hublot is smart to recognize the power of collaborators like these. It’s all about finding artists with identifiable enough markers that can be translated into a conceptual watch. It’s Pop Art in product form.

Today, the role of the artist as a frontrunner for counterculture has given way to large commercial endeavors and very clever marketing. Arsham is an artist, but above all he’s an extremely marketable product. His brand is commercially viable enough to collaborate with giant LVMH brands like Hublot and Tiffany, “easy” enough to be consumable for the masses, and just “cool” enough to keep the intrigue running. Even if the Droplet isn’t your cup of tea, the pocket watch feels so entirely replica hublot watches for sale and also so entirely Arsham that you can’t knock either party. It’s a respectful 50/50 split of design ideals.

Hublot x Daniel Arsham is a deal that will likely yield millions of dollars for both the brand and for Arsham. Love it or hate it, I am certain you will have feelings about it. And surely that is a win for Hublot.

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BREGUET Marine 9518

Breguet expands its iconic Marine collection with new gem set models. These resolutely contemporary watches inspire a desire for the open seas. Presenting the Breguet Marine 9518 & Marine Chronograph 5529.
Two new timepieces join the Breguet Marine 9518 collection. While one is graced with a sunburst blue dial recalling the sea, the second comes with a silver-toned dial hinting at foam dancing on the rocks.
As if to evoke sunshine sparkling on water, eight diamonds take the place of certain hour-markers on each dial, while the bezel is decked out with 50 diamonds. This model features several of Breguet‘s notable aesthetic attributes. Firstly, the facetted gold hour and minute hands, which are luminescent and display the famous eccentric open-tipped style. In a reference to maritime signals, the tip of the seconds hand signifies the letter “B” for “Bravo” in navigation codes.
At 3 0’clock, the crown guard is distinguished by the wave shape characteristic of the Marine line. The profile (caseband) of each model bears the fluted motif featured on the majority of Breguet Marine 9518 watch cases. Abraham-Louis Breguet‘s love of functional and elegant watchmaking led him to adorn the caseband of most of his watches with guilloché and fluted patterns. This signature style gives a more refined appearance, while also making it less likely to slip from its owner’s hands, has been faithfully preserved by the Manufacture.
These two steel models, on a metal bracelet with both-polished and satinbrushed finish reflecting the different treatments applied to each timepiece. Particular care has also been taken to ensure that the bracelet is supple enough to fit elegantly and comfortably around the wearer’s wrist. While the triple-blade clasp gives it a sporty-chic look.
Beating inside the 33.8 mm-diameter steel case water-resistant to 50 metres, 187 components drive the 591A self-winding movement with its 38-hour power reserve. The sturdily. built in-house Breguet Marine 9518 calibre is also seductively slender at 3.4 mm. To ensure high precision, it is fitted with a flat balance-spring and an in-line Swiss lever silicon escapement. The latter’s numerous properties include resistance to corrosion and wear, as well as insensitivity to the influence of magnetic field, while providing enhanced accuracy. As luxury lies in the details, the movement can also be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, which reveals a gold oscillating weight bearing guilloché work evoking a snailed sunburst motif, handcrafted by the Manufacture’s artisans.
Housed in a 42.3 mm case, the 582 QA mechanical self-winding movement is driven by the interaction of its 346 components. Designed for modern-day sports enthusiasts, the case is water-resistant to 30 metres. Equipped with a 48-hour power reserve, the high-precision calibre is powered by an inverted in line lever escapement with silicon balance-spring and pallets. Finally, the movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, whose rudder-shaped rhodium-plated gold weight is coated with a black DLC treatment.

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

In broadening Parmigiani Fleurier’s line of Tonda PF Sport offerings, the luxury watch Maison has introduced a trio of new chronograph models to its collection for the year.

Offered in stainless steel builds, the assortment of new time-tellers are presented in an elegantly crafted 42mm watch case, boasting polished and satin finishings complete with a knurled bezel. In bringing out its sporty appeal, the watches are paired with complementing rubber straps that come with a Cordura-treated look.

In line with Parmigiani Fleurier’s usual tone, the new Tonda PF Sport Chronographs arrive in three new understated yet elegantly sporty colorways: Artic Grey, London Grey and Milano Blue. Each of the options is paired with its namesake hues on the dial, coming in the form of the timer flange and subcounters.

The dial plate arrives in a clou triangulaire guilloché pattern, where it’s paired with rhodium-plated skeletonized delta hands and appliques. A closer glance at the dial will reveal that the background for the date windows echoes the coating for the lumed indices.

Powering the references at the core are the PF070 Manufacture movement, a COSC-certified automatic caliber that comes with an integrated chronograph. Geared with 65 hours of power reserve, the piece ticks at a frequency of 36,000 vph, where every movement including its 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight, is proudly on display through its transparent caseback.
I’d happily admit to being smitten with Parmigiani Fleurier’s new look. The hits seem to be coming thick and fast this year, following the brand’s Watches and Wonders novelties. After the focus on the rebirth of the Toric, we get three new versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph this time.

Parmigiani’s intricate dial treatment and a newfound air of minimal cool suits it well. While I’m a fan of earlier Tonda designs with quirky asymmetric overlapping registers, the clean, new look is suave. For me, Parmigiani Fleurier has simply become a very good alternative to the usual suspects, and maybe it’s about time.
The minimalist PF range has become the new calling card for the brand, and the “regular” micro-rotor PF is anything but. With its broad and sleek take on integrated-bracelet chic, the vibe is modern. Too many other brands are following the coattails of Genta and Hysek too closely when it comes to design, but not Parmigiani. The genre might have been created half a century ago, but this is the Fleurier-based brand’s take on it with a wide bracelet or strap and an easily recognizable design. The dials sport Parmigiani’s triangular hobnail guilloché (clou triangulaire) and offer a clean aesthetic framed by the trademark knurled bezel. You can order a bracelet for the Tonda PF Sport, but on a strap, this is about the casual-chic look. It’s a juxtaposition of luxury and sports that we know from the Oysterflex-equipped Yacht-Master and Vacheron Overseas, and it is becoming increasingly popular. The comfortable, wrist-hugging textile-patterned rubber straps from Parmigiani have the right blend of comfort and toughness. Well, perhaps I should say “perceived toughness” as I’m not sure I’d engage in any extreme sports wearing a €30K+ watch, but if you would, you have my respect. After all, a well-worn watch is a happy watch, right?
The last time we saw the Tonda PF Sport range, it was a case of panda cool. And for me, the blend of elegance and sporty lean has made it a great alternative to two greats. Cost-wise, the Tonda PF Sport is close to the slightly more expensive Overseas, while the Daytona is less expensive at retail but, as we all know, very hard to get. However, the main difference is a more open outlook on diversification, with three colors expanding the previously four-reference monochrome range. Adding these three quietly colorful versions also says a lot about the brand’s faith in the Tonda PF Sport line and its success.
The case’s 42mm diameter and 12.9mm thickness remain, but now we see a deep Milano Blue, a warm London Grey, and a crisp, blueish Arctic Grey adding a flourish to the range. The colors might be muted, but with the tonality of the fabric straps, the look is one of restrained, casual swagger. The colorways are named for the sub-dials and outer minute track, and each variant comes with a matching woven-look rubber strap. Inside, the chronometer-certified manufacture caliber PF070 with its 65-hour reserve is the same as before, an obsessively finished piece of micro-machinery. Its mix of satin-finished bridges and hand-beveled edges is visible through the sapphire crystal on the back, as is its skeletonized, polished, and sandblasted 22K rose gold rotor.
So many brands are jumping on the bandwagon of integrated-bracelet watches, with some claiming to have reinvented the genre. However, what a watch design might gain in cohesiveness it often loses in versatility. The end-link compromise does not look good when changing from bracelet to strap. But this is where Parmigiani designers have risen to the task. Here, it looks natural, and I love it when a watch can be imbued with multiple personalities. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph exemplifies the smooth transition from a wrist-hugging strap to a slim case for an automatic chronograph.
If you’re a WIS, you will notice the lug interface, but it is one of the smoothest around. I tried on the Tonda PF Sport Chrono in delicious rose gold at Geneva Watch Days last autumn, and I can say it felt natural. It’s not a small watch at 42mm wide, but with the 12.9mm thickness and the trademark curved lugs, it feels soft on the wrist and temptingly comfortable. Without seeing any sales figures, I’m sure the last three years have seen a massive rise for the brand, and it is all deserved.

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Tudor Black Bay 58 Inter Milan

Tudor has produced a special edition of the Black Bay 58 to celebrate a milestone for the Italian football team Tudor Black Bay 58 Inter Milan.

Last month the team won the title in Serie A, Italy’s top flight football league. Any league win is big, but this was massive.

It was the 20th time that Inter Milan have won the title, and this time they won with five games to spare, in a victory over bitter local rivals AC Milan.
With every ten title victories, a permanent star gets added to Serie A players’ jerseys, meaning that the Inter strip now features two stars.

Rivals AC Milan are one title behind with 19 wins and therefore have a single star. The only team out in front is Juventus, with three stars for 36 titles.

The Black Bay 58 ‘Inter’ has with a special dial in the club colours of blue and back, along with an Inter Milan logo on the dial, a striped strap and caseback engraving of Inter’s second star.

Otherwise it is pure Black Bay 58, with chronometer standard Manufacture Calibre MT5402 automatic movement and 39mm case with 200 metre water resistance.

Tudor’s characteristic snowflake hands are filled with Superluminova for maximum legibility in low light.

It comes with rivet-style three-link stainless-steel bracelet and additional black jacquard fabric strap with “Inter Blue” stripe, and comes with a five-year transferable guarantee.

The watch will be worn by Inter players, and Tudor Black Bay 58 Inter Milan is making numbered pieces available at Tudor boutiques in Milan and Rome and points of sale throughout Italy. A number of watches have also been allocated to the UK market.

There will be 1908 pieces available worldwide – corresponding to the year when Tudor Black Bay 58 Inter Milan was founded.

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Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS Watches

Last year, Ulysse Nardin launched two Freak OPS watches (OPS being short for “operations”) that were characterized by their tactical-themed black and khaki green colorways, and now for its latest release of 2024, the Swiss manufacturer has introduced two new dive watches that both embrace the popular OPS concept. Formally known as the Diver NET OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS, the two new models expand upon the core blueprints of existing watches within Ulysse Nardin’s Diver collection by bringing the inherently utilitarian OPS colorway to the brand’s most rugged and performance-oriented collection of timepieces.
In the same way that the Freak ONE OPS is the flagship model and the Freak X OPS is the more affordable offering that costs roughly half the price of its sibling, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver OPS watches exist in two variations, with the Diver X Skeleton OPS being the premium version, while the Diver NET OPS is the more attainable model. Additionally, similar to how the Freak ONE is fundamentally different than the Freak X, the Diver X Skeleton is a significantly different timepiece compared to its Diver NET sibling, and it is the structural and functional differences between these models that are responsible for the large separation in their prices, rather than one version just being a luxury-oriented rendition of the same design.
The first of the two new models is the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS, which is based on the core blueprint of the standard Diver NET model from 2020 that has served as the foundation for other watches such as the Diver The Ocean Race that was launched as a limited edition in 2022. Similar to previous models, the case of the Diver NET OPS features a layered construction, where a stainless steel central section (manufactured from 95% recycled material) is surrounded by an outer shell made from a proprietary composite material that consists of 60% Nylo (a polyamide formed from upcycled fishing nets) and 40% Carbonium (a forged carbon material that uses the waste produced by the aircraft manufacturing industry).
The case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS measures 44mm in diameter by 14.81mm thick, and protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal, which is surrounded by a unidirectional timing bezel with a concave insert made from Carbonium. A screw-on display caseback closes up the reverse side of the watch, while a signed crown sits between two khaki green rubberized guards at the 3 o’clock location, and just as you would expect from a dive watch, the crown it screws down to the middle case to help create an ample 300 meters of water resistance.
The dial of the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS follows in the footsteps of existing models from the series, and it features a khaki green sandblasted surface with a large embossed X running through the center that has been given a satin brushed finish. A power reserve indicator sits below the 12 o’clock marker on the upper half of the display, while a sub-dial tracks the running seconds at the 6 o’clock location, and to further lean into its tactical-inspired colorway, the hands and hour markers on the Diver NET OPS are finished with beige Super-LumiNova that emits a green-colored glow in the dark.
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS is the brand’s 50-jewel manufacture Caliber UN-118 automatic movement, which runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Along with featuring a silicon balance spring, the Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-118 has its anchor and escape wheel crafted from DiamonSil, which is a proprietary diamond-coated silicon material that offers incredibly high levels of precision and durability. Lastly, the Diver NET OPS is available with either a khaki green rubber strap in the form of the ref. 1183-170-8A/3A, or with a two-piece fabric strap partially made from recycled fishing nets as the ref. 1183-170-8A/0A.
The other new model from the series is the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS, essentially the tactical-themed version of the brand’s Diver X Skeleton Azure we reviewed last year. What this means is that you get a DLC-coated titanium case that measures 44mm in diameter by 15.7mm thick, and just like previous executions, the top of the case is furnished by a domed sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating timing bezel that has a concave Carbonium insert. Just like the Diver NET OPS, the Diver X Skeleton OPS features a screw-on display caseback with a signed screw-down crown located between two khaki green rubberized guards at 3 o’clock; however, water resistance is less than its sibling at 200 meters, which should still be more than adequate to survive all forms of moisture contact.
Just like other Diver X Skeleton models, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS features an open-worked display with a large X-shaped dial structure running through its center. Finished with brushed and polished surfaces, the dial features a black PVD coating, along with khaki green accents to play into the colorway of the watch. To echo the appearance of its Carbonium bezel insert, the carbon fiber-based material is also used for the barrel cover which sits visible through the open-worked dial at the 12 o’clock location, and just like the Diver NET OPS model, beige Super-LumiNova is applied to the dial and hands to provide them with a green-colored glow and improve their low-light visibility.
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS is the manufacture 23-jewel Caliber UN-372 automatic, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Silicon is used for the oversized oscillator, balance spring, anchor, and escapement wheel, and this intricate assembly is showcased opposite the Carbonium barrel cover through the open-worked dial on the lower half of the display. Lastly, just like the Diver NET OPS model, the new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton OPS is available in two different configurations as the ref. 3723-170-2C/3A with a rubber strap, or as the ref. 3723-170-2C/0A, which features a khaki green fabric strap made using recycled fishing nets.

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Longines Conquest Chronograph 42

Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent.

At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details.

The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated.

Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of.

Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interesting as a design element.

The facelift didn’t shrink the Conquest by much and it’s still a large watch measuring 42 mm by 14.3 mm. It’s big and feels so, particularly with the wide and long lugs.

The size feels like a lost opportunity since a smaller case is technically feasible. The Longines Record Heritage Chronograph uses the same movement and is 40 mm wide and under 14 mm high.

The Conquest Chronograph is priced at a competitive US$3,750, wisely staying about 25% less expensive than the higher-spec Tudor Black Bay Chrono. The movement inside the Conquest Chronograph is modular, which is not a sophisticated approach to the chronograph, but forgivable considering the price.

And in terms of the base movement, this has slight edge against the competition. Like most watches in its price segment, the Conquest Chronograph is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) movement, but Longines (like its sister brands in the Swatch Group) receives upgraded ETA movements. So the ETA 2892-based calibre in the Conquest has a 59-hour power reserve, instead of 42 hours for the stock movement, amongst other upgrades.

Available in four colours to start, the Conquest Chronograph gets the dial basics right. The balance and proportions of the dial elements are good, while the textures and surface finishing add to the visual interest.

The hour indices sit on a contrast-colour chapter ring, giving it something of a “sector” dial look. The chapter ring is not just in a different colour, but also finished with fine concentric graining, making it appear slightly recessed. Another interesting detail are the tiny luminous squares at the tip of each hour marker are an unusual detail that is vintage inspired but fresh.

All of the details are obvious on the black, silver, and champagne dials, but less on the blue dial, which is the only dial in a single colour, albeit in different shades of blue. The case is a no-fuss affair that’s entirely brushed steel. With crown guards and pump-style pushers, the resemblance to the Daytona is also apparent here.

But the design and finishing is appropriate for an affordable sports chronograph. It is, however, a bit too big at42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm high. The case feels chunky on and off the wrist, something made even more apparent with the widely-spaced lugs that are themselves broad. The movement that’s visible through the back further emphasises the size of the case. It’s the L898.5, which is an upgraded ETA 2892 with an ETA chronograph module on the top. Being one of the highest-spec derivatives of the ETA 2892, the L898.5 includes a silicon hairspring, 59-hour power reserve, and COSC-certification.

The fact that the movement is module is something of a drawback, though not a major one given the accessible pricing. A Valjoux 7750-derived calibre would have been a more proper technical solution since it’s integrated, but it would have likely resulted in an even thicker watch. The height and movement trade-off is therefore acceptable. The L898.5 is dressed up for the exhibition back with striping on the rotor and perlage on the bridges. Needles to say, the decoration is industrial, but it is attractive and justifies the open back.

The Conquest Chronograph was clearly conceived to be a sports watch with larger-than-usual dimensions and an aesthetic that brings to mind a more famous sports watch. It succeeds on all counts, while remaining affordable.

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GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato has gone through so many mutations and transformations since the design was first introduced in 1975, that it’s hard to think of a single model that really embodies its essence. The first Laureato, after all, was a thin quartz watch and it represents a period when not only GP, but the Swiss watch industry as a whole, was struggling to find a way through the Quartz Crisis.
That the first Girard-Perregaux Laureato was a quartz watch, not a mechanical one, is significant as well; GP was one of the first Swiss brands to offer a quartz watch. The first in-house GP quartz movement was the Elcron caliber, which came out in 1970 and ran at 8,192 Hz. In 1971, however, the GP-350 caliber debuted – this was the first quartz movement with a crystal vibrating at 32,768 Hz, which has become the frequency standard for almost all quartz movements made, right up to the present.

Some people find the Laureato’s design derivative of the Royal Oak, but I don’t see it that way – there are some, I think, fairly trivial similarities, including the use of an octagonal bezel, but if you put the two watches side-by-side they seem to me to clearly be going after different effects. The Royal Oak has a much more visually aggressive, overt angularity which the Laureato manifestly is not trying to ape; instead, it’s shooting for a slim, relatively unobtrusive vibe that, the steel case and eight-sided bezel notwithstanding, has much more to do with the mid-century ideal of a thin, elegant dress watch than it does with the flashy geometry of the Royal Oak. Whether this is or isn’t a good thing is a matter of taste, but the original Laureato is, I think, fundamentally a much more conservative design than the Royal Oak, at least in terms of its underlying aspirations.
The original Girard-Perregaux Laureato, therefore, wasn’t just an attempt to use a modern design idiom to achieve the feel of a traditional thin dress watch – it was an attempt by Girard-Perregaux, and by extension the Swiss watch industry, to assert itself as a leader in both aesthetic and technical modernity; not for nothing did it proudly say “chronometer” on the dial of the original Laureato. It’s on the same continuum with later, even more extreme examples of ultra-thin quartz horology, like the Omega Dinosaure or Concord Delirium, and it’s also an ancestor to later thin, integrated bracelet quartz watches such as the 1980 Piaget Polo (another now-classic design that started out as a quartz watch, with the caliber 7P in 1979 and 8P in 1980).
Girard-Perregaux Laureato was exclusively a quartz watch for quite a long time (it was used as a vehicle for quartz complications as well) and, interestingly enough, the first mechanical Laureato didn’t come along until fairly late in the game. In 1995, GP introduced a mechanical Laureato with its in-house automatic caliber 3100. The 3000 family of movements was first introduced, just the year before, in 1994, and like the original Laureato, they are rather conservative in certain respects – they’re relatively small by modern standards, at 11 1/2 lignes, or 25.60 mm x 3.36mm, for the caliber 3300 (the caliber 3000 is a 10 1/2 ligne movement). However, this is comparable to the ETA 2892, which is also an 11 1/2 ligne caliber (and 3.6mm thick). The 3300, which is used in the just-released 38mm Laureato watches, is a fairly high-beat caliber, at 28,8000 vph.

The 3000 family of GP movements, by the way, has found its way into some interesting watches from other brands. MB&F uses the 3300 caliber as the basis for a number of its Horological Machines, where its dimensions and general reliability give a lot of flexibility in overall design and mechanical implementation; in 1996, Vacheron Constantin used the GP 3100 as the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1311, in the first series of the Overseas watch – the first new model launched by VC after it was acquired by the Vendôme Group.

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ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

With these versions of the Rolex Day-Date 36, Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models. By displaying a new emotion each day, the watch brings an element of spontaneity into the wearers’ daily life and allows them to invest the reading of time with their changing mood.

Rolex unveils three new variants of its Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, full of joy and energy.

Crafted from 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, these watches have adopted an original face. Rather than showing the day of the week, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays an inspirational keyword in English – ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. The window at 3 o’clock reveals daily one of 31 exclusive emojis in place of the date.

Entirely created using champlevé enamelling, the dial is striking for the depth and intensity of its gleaming colours and decoration. The motif is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial, which is turquoise blue on the 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct white gold versions, and orange on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watch in 18 ct Everose gold.

The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling them to display a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji each day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

EXCLUSIVITY ACCORDING TO ROLEX

At its launch in 1956, the Day-Date was a major innovation: it was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt out in full in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock on the dial – a technical feat at the time. The day of the week is available in a choice of 26 languages. Watches in the Day-Date range are made only of precious metals – 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, or 950 platinum.

Worn by many of the world’s political figures, directors and visionaries, the Day-Date is instantly recognizable, in particular thanks to its emblematic President bracelet, whose evocative name, together with the eminent figures who have worn it, ensured the Day-Date became known as the ‘presidents’ watch’.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

A paragon of robustness and elegance, the 36 mm Oyster case of the new versions of the Day-Date 36 is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of these versions is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 3255

The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and fitted on this model in 2019. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3255 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is now fitted with an optimized ball bearing.

Calibre 3255 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3255 extends to approximately 70 hours.

PRESIDENT BRACELET

The new variants of the Day-Date 36 are fitted on a President bracelet in 18 ct yellow or white gold for those with a turquoise blue puzzle-motif dial, or in 18 ct Everose gold for the orange puzzle-motif dial. Created specially for the launch of the prestigious Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956, this three-piece link bracelet, made only from 18 ct gold or 950 platinum, is still reserved exclusively for the Day-Date and precious metal versions of the Datejust.

The President bracelet is equipped with an elegant concealed folding Crownclasp and includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION

Like all Rolex watches, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

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A Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060

Each week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. We photograph each one so that you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. This week, we have a Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060, a Tudor Black Bay Pro, a Canopus Gold Omega Speedmaster, a Panerai Submersible, and a JLC Polaris.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060

The Rolex Submariner 14060 is a classic diver’s neo-vintage iteration of the diver that embodies the essence of the Sub. You get the classic 40mm case, the unidirectional rotating bezel, the black aluminum insert, all supporting the simple no-date look.

As you would expect and as is written on the dial, the 14060 is water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet), making it suitable for diving. The absence of a date complication on the dial gives the watch a symmetrical and balanced look, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts alike who appreciate the simplicity and functionality of a no-date Submariner. This is as classic as a not-quite-vintage Sub gets.

Tudor Black Bay Pro Ref. 79470

With the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT still fresh on our minds after Watches & Wonders, it’s hard to just forget about the BB Pro, the first version of a smaller, 39mm, GMT from the brand. This watch shares many aesthetic cues with the Rolex Explorer II line and represents a rugged, sporty GMT. It features an old school steel bezel, a matte black dial, matte raised markers and the slightest tinge of patina. While it is a bit thick, housing the same movement as the original Black Bay GMT, this watch also features the upgraded Tudor T-Fit clasp system and presents a really nice, sturdy alternative to the Black Bay 58 line. And if we’re being honest, once you get this one on your wrist, all that thickness just disappears.

Panerai Submersible PAM 973

The Panerai Submersible 3 Days Automatic PAM 973 is a rugged and stylish dive watch that combines Italian design with Swiss watchmaking. With a 42mm brushed steel case and a unidirectional rotating bezel, this watch is designed to be the modern iteration of what is generally a vintage-inspired design fest from the brand. At the heart of the Submersible PAM 973 is the Panerai Caliber P.900 movement, which provides a power reserve of three days. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback and the watch is water resistant to 300 meters. It comes affixed to a black rubber strap, making it a truly striking modern dive watch in today’s market.

Omega Speedmaster Canopus Gold

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph in Canopus Gold is an under-the radar luxe version of the iconic Moonwatch. The watch features a 42mm case crafted from Omega’s exclusive Canopus Gold, a white gold alloy that offers a brilliant and long-lasting shine, but one that most would just confuse for steel. The bezel is also made of Canopus Gold and features a black ceramic insert with the classic tachymeter scale (with dot over 90). The dial of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph is opaline silver, complementing the Canopus Gold and creating a seamless link between metal and dial. The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861, a manual-winding movement that is METAS-certified. The case back is open giving you a full view of the intricate mechanics within. Paired with Omega’s upgraded vintage-meets-modern bracelet, this is the perfect Moonwatch precious upgrade.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date Q9068670

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date Q9068670 is a mid-century-inspired design paying tribute to the iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968. It features a 42mm stainless steel case with a mix of polished and satin finishes with a black dial that plays off the faux-aged lume on the markers. Key callouts are the 12, nine, and six Arabic numerals, which punctuate the vintage look and feel. At the heart of the Polaris Date Q9068670 is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 899, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The Polaris features a date display at three o’clock and is water resistant to 200 meters. It comes affixed to a black rubber strap and represents the best execution of modern build quality that pays homage to a classic design.