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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 37

It’s raining bling! Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henri Bennahmias isn’t holding back before his impending departure from the brand in 2023. Instead, true to his persona, he’s upping the ante for the Q4 celebrations of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary with a flashy lineup of 20 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow pieces (10 in 41 mm and 10 in 37 mm) fully set—from the dial to the bezel to the case to the bracelet—in emeralds, rubies, tourmalines, tanzanites, tsavorites, chrysoberyls and spessartites. Unlike other “rainbow” watches, these are arranged in monochrome settings such as a fully yellow chrysoberyl-set version to one dressed in solid rubies.
Each Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow 41 mm watch is outfitted in 861 stones (between 30 and 47 carats) and each 37 mm model is accented with 790 stones (between 21 to 37 carats)—an incredible feat when you consider how hard it is to find that many stones of matching colour, clarity, quality and size. In fact, the process was such a challenge it took an entire year. The gem-setting was orchestrated by Pierre Salanitro, a longtime AP collaborator who is generally regarded as the master of his particular profession in Switzerland. Adding to the difficulty in setting the variations of stones is that each watch had to be adjusted according to the typology, hardness and other specifics according to the makeup of each type of stone. The baguette stones were also cut in 179 different sizes for the 41 mm version and 153 different sizes for the 37 mm iteration before being hand-polished. To make sure the stones covered as much surface as possible, Audemars Piguet and Salanitro arranged them in an invisible setting—a jewelry technique in which as little metal as possible is revealed around the gems to give the appearance that they are floating—on the dial and bracelet links. To achieve this, tiny grooves were cut into the 18-karat white gold cases with the stones attached inside via hidden rails mounted in the metal. This kind of setting is notoriously difficult and only 10 out of 80 artisans at Salanitro’s studio are able to complete the task. They worked for a month and a half on the setting alone for each set.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow timepieces contain the calibre 4309 for the 41 mm version—the most recent self-winding hours, minutes and seconds movement in this diameter—and the Caliber 5909 for the 37 mm model. The 5909 is based on the Caliber 5900, which first appeared this year in other Royal Oaks of the same case size. Like other 50th anniversary editions, these will also come with a 22-carat pink gold oscillating rotor that spells out “50 years.” The Audemars Piguet logo and “Swiss Made” label have been cautiously printed on the sapphire crystal so as not to interfere with the gems.

Needless to say, however, these watches are anything but discreet. You won’t need to see a logo to know that these are AP Royal Oaks from a distance and all of the added high-end adornment ensures they can be spotted quite easily from across a room. Consider hiring a bodyguard with your purchase.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 41

Audemars Piguet revealed its first 41 mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding Chronograph entirely crafted in black ceramic with contrasting pink gold accents appearing on the dial. Each ceramic component is pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed prior to being finished by hand, culminating in polished chamfers juxtaposed with Audemars Piguet’s trademark satin-brushed and polished surfaces.

The black dial features a Grande Tapisserie pattern and matching counters with fine pink-gold-toned threads. Additional pink gold highlights, including applied hour-markers, Royal Oak hands and the Audemars Piguet signature, deliver eye-catching contrast.

To celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, this new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph housed in black ceramic features the collection’s new evolutionary dial design. The artisans have harmonized the size of the luminescent facetted hour-markers and the hands while preserving their aesthetics. The logo has been reworked. A gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding signature endowed with a unique topography now replaces the applied AP monogram and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET” at 12 o’clock. The embossed signature decorating the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models is made of thin layers of 24-carat gold. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs almost invisible to the naked eye.

By increasing the size of the small seconds display, all three counters feature the same diameter, augmenting readability. The central sweep seconds hand features a new style of counterweight encompassing a new trapezoidal openworked profile.

The pins connecting the links to the studs of the black ceramic bracelet are no longer visible on the sides, but fitted directly into the studs.

This new version of the 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is fitted with a dedicated anniversary openworked oscillating weight in blackened 22-carat gold, which features the “50-years” logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature. The oscillating weight has been darkened in order to match the color of the case.

At the heart of each reference is the Manufacture’s latest generation chronograph movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4401. It is fully integrated and features a column wheel and a flyback function. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding flyback function allows the wearer to stop, reset and start the chronograph in one simple action. The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. When starting or stopping the chronograph, the hands respond accordingly without any jumping. The push-pieces feel smooth when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic 29 Stainless Steel

I adore complicated watches which feature a chronograph, a minute repeater or tourbillon. However, on some occasions, there is a strong argument for simplicity. Sometimes a pure, clean, uncluttered appearance, with ease of interpretation, makes an appealing rationale for purchase.

Simplicity, in terms of watchmaking, is a contradiction in terms. Whilst a watch may seem absent of numerous functions, to create a stylish watch devoid of registers, guilloché or tourbillon cage is actually quite difficult. The designer needs to impart eye-appeal whilst not overburdening the dial with the extraneous. Indeed, the idiom “the devil is in the detail” is very apt when designing a watch with a limited array of functions.

Earlier this year at Baselworld 2014, TAG Heuer revealed some awe-inspiring novelties featuring some incredible avant-garde aesthetics and know-how, including the mind-blowing Monaco V4 with its ingenious belt-driven movement. However, a model which caught me on my blind-side and seduced my soul with its dapper, but restrained, appearance was theTAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic.

TAG Heuer offer the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm with a choice of steel bracelet or alligator leather strap. Dial variants include black, silver and anthracite. I have not seen all the available options, but confess to liking the black dial version on a leather strap (ref WAR211A.FC6180). It has a pre-eminent legibility and warmth, courtesy of the black hued strap. It is this model which provides the focal point of this in-depth watch review.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm is a handsome timepiece with a notable air of sophistication.

The seemingly simple dial is the result of many hours of toil spent in the TAG Heuer design studio, honing each element to a peerless outcome. The resultant landscape of the dial is beautiful, with delightful details which reinforce the rationale for purchase.

Versatility is another key strength of the Tag HEUER Calibre 5 Automatic – Steel 39mm. It is a suitable accessory to complement casual or formal attire. Indeed, I would suggest it would admirably fulfil the role of dress watch at a black tie event, such is the cleanliness of the dial.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Rose Gold

The Patek Philippe Nautilus shot to fame for its iconic case design and was easily one of the most expensive regular production steel watches of its time. So iconic is the poster watch combination of steel and blue dial that the Patek Philippe Nautilus remains one of the most sought after collections after more than 30 years in production. While the 5711 is the grail for many, the watch’s fame has also brought with it a fair share of controversy.
We had previously talked about full gold watches in our article on Audemar Piguet’s Royal Oak collection. Never mind the touchè proletariat rant, or the usual discourse against the use of precious metals on sports themed watches. These arguments are convenient and complacent at best. Full gold watches are statement pieces. More often than not an indicator of wealth at the expense of tastefulness. Similar to Rolex’s Everose gold watches, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001 has a similar color scheme, a warm rose gold case with a dark hue brown dial.
The 40 mm watch is adequately sized for the Nautilus. Steeped with heritage, the Nautilus design retains its slim case and unique case construction. The bezel piece is secured to the middle case portion via the protruding portions at 3 and 6 o’clock. The modern case also possesses a screw down crown and a fold over clasp. To add to its charm, the watch uses the famed 324 SC calibre, a tested and proven calibre well-known for its thinness (3.3 mm).
The watch has rich heritage and remains a dream watch for many. However, while we do not dislike the full gold models, we prefer the notion of subtle luxury rather than an overt one. In our opinion, the best current production Nautilus is still the base Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 Rose Gold 5711/1A-010 (retails for S$ 32,700). Although, if precious metals are your fancy, the Nautilus in platinum is our recommendation. It is the ultimate in understatement, looking almost like the steel version. But is certainly extremely rare. The 5711/1P is not even listed in the Patek Philippe catalog. It is also the heaviest and certainly the most expensive within the range, but also the most collectible.

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Hublot BIG BANG E FIFA WORLD CUP QATAR 2022™

Hublot was founded in 1980, which makes it, at the age of 40, approximately 100 years younger than its long-established counterparts. Its newbie status, far from being a drawback, has advantages. Hublot stands ripe for adventure, uniquely unbound by traditions that might constrain it to an identity forged in a bygone era. It is free to explore new ideas, designs, materials and associations. One month it’s sponsoring a polo match in aristocratic, old-money Gstaad, and the next, it’s joining the crush in the stands at the FIFA World Cup. The latter is coming up next month in Qatar and Hublot isn’t missing out on the moment. As a sponsor of the event, the company is introducing the Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 smartwatch.
“Being a young brand allows us to be more diverse and maybe not as focused on one specific partnership,” Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe tells Robb Report. “The idea is to create a world of Hublot, in which we meet with different customers, some of whom are interested in soccer, some in other sports, or who like tattoos.” (Hublot has worked on watch collaborations with tattoo artist Maxime Büchi). “When it comes to watches, we have the liberty to create incredible designs that maybe a traditional brand would not do it because it’s too particular,” he adds. “If you look at the tattoo watch, Sang Bleu, it’s incredible. Nobody would make a watch like this, but Hublot we can do it because our concept of mastering the art of fusion allows us to be disruptive.”

Hublot’s untraditional approach to watchmaking has seen it trailblaze certain trends in the industry. It was one of the first brands to popularise rubber straps in the 1990s. And few other brands use colour to the same extent as Hublot, which has developed its own proprietary selection of coloured ceramics and sapphires as case materials. It is also one of the early adopters of fully sapphire crystal cases.
Design-wise, it has collaborated with artists, architects and athletes to push the boundaries, making its aesthetic identity difficult to define in any way other than to describe it as unconventional. At the same time, its engineering and finishing techniques adhere to the principles of traditional high watchmaking.

But the brand’s attention to detail combined with its often loud and forward-thinking approach is an ethos that extends to its smartwatches. The Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 is a Gen 3 connected watch with a new timeline function dedicated to soccer. Before the tournament starts, the Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 will be in countdown mode, keeping track of the days until the opening match on November 20 between Qatar and Ecuador. Then, with 15 minutes to go before each match, the watch will deliver team line-ups and player profiles. As each game kicks off, the watch will automatically enter “match mode” and activate a “timeline” feature created exclusively for this watch to track the game highlights.

A scale on the outer edge of the dial is split into five sections, indicating the first and second halves, the additional time allowed in each half and half-time. If a goal is scored, the watch shows a match event animation mentioning the player’s name, and a soccer symbol will appear at the appropriate minute mark on the scale. The same thing happens if there is a yellow card, a red card or a penalty. If a match goes beyond normal time, the watch display will automatically switch into extra time mode, and then into shootout mode in the event a match goes to penalties. Each penalty is recorded to indicate whether or not the attempt was successful. A final “match period animation” shows when the game is over, and the final score. The wearer can replay these events at any point during a game by scrolling around the dial using the watch’s crown.
But what about after the World Cup is over? It comes with all of the standard functions of a smartwatch including GPS and a heart-rate monitor, and it comes with a suite of preloaded apps to stay connected to track activities, health and more. And unlike smaller alternatives, the Big Bang e FIFA is oversized at 44 mm, so you can better see the screen, which may be a welcome design feature for some.

The case is made of micro-blasted and polished black ceramic and black titanium. The rubber strap comes in burgundy highlighted back black underneath—a colour inspired by the flag colours of the State of Qatar. But fans can also choose dial and strap designs in the colors of each of the 32 participating countries.

The 2022 FIFA World Cup will be held from late November to mid-December, making it the first tournament not to be held in May, June or July and to take place in the northern autumn; it will be played in a reduced timeframe of around 29 days. Hublot has been a sponsor since 2010 and will time all 64 games in this year’s FIFA World Cup, including the final in the Lusail Stadium in Doha on 18 December. The Hublot Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 is limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at US$270. Considering the cost of traveling to Qatar for the World Cup, if you’re already going you might as well invest a little further and come equipped with this game-day accessory.

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5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

Look, I get it, a new Nautilus is a big deal and earlier this week Patek Philippe announced several new examples into the lineup and people are champing at the bit to share their thoughts on the new 5811 and its siblings. As for me, I’m simply thrilled to get to write about what I see as two of the best watches in the recent announcement, the grandly complicated 5204G and the wildly cool 5935G. You can have my spot in the Nautilus line because, if we’re talking about my own joyfully hypothetical buying power, I’m looking for something a bit more interesting. Interesting…and complicated, as this article will focus on two new references from Patek Philippe, the 5204G Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar and the 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph. Do you remember that “Justification For Higher Education” poster with the big house and the supercars? You could just use a photo of either of these two watches if cars aren’t your thing. Cars are my thing, among many things. Maybe I should have been a doctor, after all.
Starting with the 5204G-001, it is essentially a white gold version of the existing 5204R, which was originally launched 10 years ago, in 2012, but was recently updated with a grey dial in 2021. This new version matches its white precious metal case with an olive green sunburst dial that continues the legacy of QP chronographs like the 2499 and the 5270 by offering the combination and then taking things a step further by featuring a split-seconds function for the chronograph (which is controlled via the button set into the crown). All of that grand complication is powered by the manually-wound CHR 29-535 PS Q and it is tucked inside a case that is only 40mm wide and 14.3mm thick. When you blend the sizing with the less formal dial coloring, the white gold, and the continued inclusion of luminous hands and markers, you get a very soft-spoken, almost unassuming, execution of what is a very (VERY) hardcore piece of watchmaking.

As soon as I started to look over the images of the new 5204G, I found that its general vibe reminded me of another very Grand Complication from Patek, the 5004. Retired in 2011, while the 5004 was made in several different versions over its 15-year life cycle, Patek commemorated the end of production for these Split-Second QP Chronographs by creating fifty examples in steel with gorgeous creamy dials and black dial furniture (I love when Patek does black markers and hands). As the 5204 came into being a year after the 5004 was retired, maybe the new 5204G is one step closer to seeing some version made in steel. While this 5204G is not specifically limited, it’s worth noting that Patek was only producing around twelve 5004s a year back in 2011. Like its rose gold sibling, 5204G has the sort of price that you write on a piece of paper and slide across a table. I suppose the digital equivalence would be for me to omit the price from this sentence and tell you that I’ve included it at the bottom of the article.
If only I were a rich guy – because holy moly – do I like the 5935A. As an extension of my fascination with travel watches, I love the romance of a world timer, especially those of a Cottier-derived nature (I wrote a bit about it here, and more about it in Watches: A Guide by Hodinkee). I know, I know. It’s only full-hour time zones but the idea of the whole world on your wrist has a very old-world charm to it and the new 5935 only amplifies that charm by mixing a steel case with a stunning dial and a special movement. Let’s start with the movement, as it’s the first time that the CH 28-520 HU has been used in a steel watch. You might remember previous and precious outings for this caliber by way of the blue- or green-accented 5930G, and the CH 28-520 HU is notable for its combination of both a traditional world timer (showing instantaneous time and an indication of day/night in 24 time zones) along with a 30-minute flyback chronograph.

For the 5935A, the combination is so well done, especially in terms of how lightly the chronograph treads on an already complicated dial. The sizing is good, too, with the 5935A measuring 41mm wide and 12.75mm thick while housing an automatic movement with two rather useful complications. Then we get to the dial, which is described by Patek Philippe as rose gilt with a carbon motif and charcoal grey accents. Did I mention that I love when Patek Philippe uses black dial furniture? I did, but feel free to add charcoal to that list – the first-gen 5270, the final 5004, Briggs Cunningham’s frankly jaw-dropping 1526. The mix of the rosey dial, the dark and legible markings, and that carbon-effect center finishing, I just love it.

Interestingly, Patek says that the carbon motif is in reference to the ref. 6007 LE from 2020, but let’s not forget 2017’s 5208T-010 for Only Watch (and yes, I had to google that reference), or the unique 5004T (thank you for that one, Ben). With the 5935A carrying a price tag of $63,870, what can I say? A fella can dream, and hope that my meager GME holdings shoot for one of Jupiter’s moons. I’m afraid our own moon simply won’t cut it anymore.

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Bell and Ross BR-X5

Inspired by the world of aviation, Bell & Ross has a history of creating quality timepieces with the reliability of aerial navigation instruments and an upscale tool watch aesthetic. The BR 05 line was introduced in 2019 and softened their iconic “circle within a square” design into a more modern and sophisticated profile for a sports watch with a more luxury look and feel. With the new BR-X5 collection in two distinctive models, they have pushed the silhouette to another level of chic modernity. The timepieces check all the boxes for Bell & Ross’ stated four fundamental principles of legibility, functionality, reliability and precision.
The case of the BR-X5 has several interesting changes from the BR 05 designs. The side has been hollowed out for a multi-layer look consistent with the sandwich type construction for incredible visual complexity and weight optimization. The size is 41mm, comparable to the BR 05 GMT for a substantial fit on the wrist.
The case design starts with a steel core machined from a single piece of metal along with the crown guards to build a strong base for the rest of the layering. A square bezel with a rubber ring detail and caseback complete the novel approach to the design while maintaining the recognizable Bell & Ross design aesthetic. The case assembly is held together with four screws that pass through the layers via four columns and create a finished product that is watertight to 100 meters with a variety of polished, satin-brushed and micro-blasted finishes that effectively highlight the various layers and surfaces.
Under the hood lies the caliber BR-CAL.323 that was developed with their partner, the Geneva-based watch movement manufacture Kenissi. The two are connected through another significant partner, Chanel, who holds a minority stake in Bell & Ross and Kenissi. Using a variable inertia balance wheel and rapid date correction device — a mechanism that allows quick date adjustments without affecting the timekeeping — the BR-CAL.323 is a powerhouse of a movement in line with Bell & Ross’ high standards for quality. Most notable is the improved 72-hour power reserve and the entrancing view of the skeletonized oscillating weight through the sapphire exhibition caseback. “While aesthetic daring was the guiding principle throughout the creative stages of the BR-X5, when it came to timekeeping reliability and precision, the notion of risk was banished from our vocabulary,” explains Bruno Belamich, Bell & Ross creative director.
The most notable differences from previous models can be seen when we turn our attention to the dial of the BR-X5. The style can best be described as urban adventure available in a sporty black and red colorway or a truly arresting ice blue with an unexpected elegance. The dial continues the theme of layering with a varnish process that includes a rhodium plated finishing and a sunray texture. The timekeeping is pared back to simple baton indexes, filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low-light conditions. The 12 o’clock position is indicated with a double baton for orientation. The central hands are worked to match the indexes for a harmonious appeal. A beveled minute track circles the dial for added depth. Near the three o’clock position is a date window that recalls the look and feel of analog flight instruments. It shows three dates on the wheel with an arrow indicating the current day. Balanced opposite at nine o’clock is a power reserve display with a three-day meter gauge.
The design of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 leans into the avant-garde. It feels like an intricate puzzle pieced together with perfect precision and transformed into a timepiece. The black variation is masculine and sporty, serving its place in the realm of the expected. The ice blue, however, steps outside the box of sports watches for a design that can traverse the realms of business, sports and evenings out. The brand said of the design: “We are playing with different levels of sophistications and size. The BR-X5 is the ultimate version of the 05 collection. With its Kenissi manufactured movement, its new functions and new design features, we created an evolved version of the BR 05.”

The BR-X5 is paired with a matching steel bracelet for an integrated finish, or a sporty openworked black or ice blue rubber strap. It’s also interesting to note that along with the COSC certification, Bell & Ross has extended their usual two-year warranty to a five-year warranty on this timepiece.

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Bell and Ross BR 03-94

You may remember that earlier in the year, I reviewed Omega’s Speedmaster Chronoscope. Well, of course, you remember being a follower of WristReview (and if not, why not?). I remember that you lot were pretty mixed about the Chronoscope in the comments, but a familiar theme was that you weren’t sure if it was legible. I tried to get across that it sort of was, but maybe I need to work on that. So, given that you readers seem to like watches you can actually read, I wonder what you’ll make of Bell & Ross’ new watch, the Bell and Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter.
Just like the Chronoscope, the Multimeter can measure different things on its chronograph. It’ll measure your beat rate with a pulsometer, your rate of breathing with an asthmometer, and it’ll measure speed in three different ways. The three tachymeters are calibrated for different things. Tachymeter 1 is for cars over a long distance, while two and three are for people, either on a bike or running. The idea is that you can therefore use this to time more likely scenarios than with the standard tachymeter on, say, a Speedmaster. I hope the colours make it a little easier to see because the subdials seem hard to read, and I have no idea why there’s a date window at all. Perhaps if the diameter were enough, it wouldn’t be so bad.
In the midst of the Watches & Wonders madness, Bell & Ross launched a new limited edition BR 03-94 with one of the hottest dials of the year, ready to measure anything you dare throw at it. It’s called the Multimeter, and it features 5 separate scales in 5 different colors, including three different tachymeters. This is the analog activity tracking we’ve been waiting for, and it’s all brought together in graphic style with the ‘circle in a square’ ethos of the Bell & Ross instrument panel design language. Most importantly, the colors gel beautifully for maximum impact, making the vibe work regardless of the practicality of the scales.
The Multimeter features 5 distinct zones that each get their own measurement scale, dominating nearly the entirety of the dial in the process. Yes, there’s still a chronograph hidden in there. As is a date window. Each color gets its own function as follows: a pulsometer scale in orange for measuring heart rate; an asthmometric scale in green monitors monitors breaths in expirations per minute; a tachymeter in light gray based in 1 km for the pilot; a tachymeter in neon green based in 250m for the cyclist; and finally, a tachymeter in pale green based in 100m for the runner. If all you need is a reading on the time, well, the rehaut indexes the minutes. There’s an hour hand there, but you’ll just have to best-guess it.
A blocked off section along the left side of the dial breaks down each of the scales in case you’ve forgotten, but it may prove tricky to understand at a glance and on the go. No matter, lay out your.. it looks the absolute business, and in theory, uses the principle of color differentiation for harmonious presentation of information.Is it practical? Probably not for most of us, but it sure as hell scratches an itch when it comes to playful utilitarian design with loads of color applied to dramatic effect. A date window has been applied in pretty much the only area that could possibly accept it, just right of the (missing) 12 o’clock marker. The running seconds hand and minute totalizer are forced to make do with half of their scales in place as well. It’s ridiculous, and I kind of love it.

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br 03-92 red radar ceramic

Since their foundation in 1995, aviation and military-inspired watches have always been at the heart of Bell & Ross. This legacy continues today with the new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic watch, a limited edition of 999 pieces with an extraordinary concentric disc dial housed beneath red sapphire crystal glass, a concept inspired by the radars used by flight controllers.
Some of Bell & Ross’ earliest landmarks include their Space 1 model, which became the first automatic chronometer worn in space, and their iconic Bomb Disposal Type watch with a remarkable anti-magnetic case with unbeatable precision. It wasn’t until 2005, however, that the Paris-based luxury watch manufacturer truly started to prick up the ears of collectors with the release of their iconic BR 01 series. Inspired by jet cockpit clock instructions, the BR 01 collection birthed what is now known to many as the legendary B&R aesthetic: a circle within a square. This range also included the Radar family with the first BR 01 Radar watch launched in 2010. It was the first of its kind to feature an innovative display with two rotating discs. A year later, a Red Radar was added to the collection topped by mysterious red sapphire crystal.
For 2021, Bell & Ross deliver their third addition to the successful Radar family with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic Limited Edition. Continuing to revisit the graphics of aircraft navigation instruments, the 999-piece edition comes in a reduced size of 42 millimetres compared to the 46 millimetre diameter of the 2011 model and for the first time is presented in matte black ceramic, a more scratch resistant and lightweight choice than its black coated stainless steel predecessor. The case is then paired with a choice of two straps, both delivered with every order of the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar watch. The first is a classic black rubber strap secured by a black PVD coated pin buckle and the second a ultra-resilient black fabric strap with Velcro closing.

The real centrepiece to the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic Limited Edition is the dial. It feels familiar to the original Red Radar with the same playful aesthetic designed to reproduce the scanning motion of the light beam on a radar screen but with a few innovative improvements. The display is composed of two concentric discs which are fused within the dial. The external disc displays the hours while the inner showcases the minutes. To read both these intervals, follow the two screen-printed planes adorned above the dial which give the illusion of real flight. At the centre, a continuous seconds hand flows gracefully around the dial’s circumference evoking the realism of the scanning motion as done by the light beam on a real radar display.
The dial is topped by the iconic red tinted sapphire crystal glass which decorates its underside with the hour and minute scales, a choice made for better durability against impacts and abrasions. Beneath the two concentric discs lies a classic automatic winding movement, the BR-CAL.302 calibre. Due to the complex nature of the design, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic and its ultra-light discs had to be carefully engineered to preserve a decent power reserve. Bell & Ross’ team of talented engineers ensured that the precision of the watch movement was not altered by friction between these dials, guaranteeing no deformity and constant parallelism. In the end, they ensured the movement delivered a healthy power reserve of 42 hours.

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Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Heritage

Launched in 1992, Bell & Ross was founded by Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo. The first Bell & Ross models were very similar to those of Sinn Spezialuhren and officially, this collaboration lasted till 2002 (although Bell & Ross made their own models long before that year). Most people who started their interest in watches just recently, probably know the BR Instrument watches best. In 2005, the first BR instrument was introduced and Bell & Ross clearly have been inspired ever since. They have been introducing various models based on the famous flight panel instruments, including the BR 03-92 that’s now being featured on Fratellowatches. A 42mm glass bead blasted steel case with black carbon powder coating and amazing orange coloured hour markers, logo and hands. The matching Bell & Ross strap with a black carbon powdered steel buckle matches the dial perfectly. Inside the black case, an ETA2892-A2 movement is ticking away your precious time with 28.800 beats per hour. This movement could be considered commodity, as it is being used by numerous brands who don’t manufacture their own movements. It is a perfect movement, that has proven itself over time (since 1982, when the first version of this movement was introduced). A watch maker can get this movement to run as accurate as it gets with respect to mechanical watches. I didn’t have the time or the equipment at hand to test the accuracy of this particular Bell & Ross movement. As I wrote above, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Heritage strap and clasp are a perfect fit to the case and dial. As you can see, the buckle is quite large but certainly not uncomfortable when wearing or using. The modest BR logo is engraved in the black carbon powdered clasp. The tan coloured strap with white stitches and fabulous & logo will probably become a bit darker when wearing, but just like good Santoni shoes, it will age nicely. The case back is a bit confusing with all the engraving in it. Especially the screw that you shouldn’t unscrew is very tempting to use your screwdriver on. This screw is to be able to remove the crown, but this should only be done by a watchmaker who knows what he is doing. The engraving further bears some very true but yet irrelevant information, like the fact that it is a stainless steel case, that it has a mechanical automatic movement inside and that it is made in Switzerland. The one thing engraved that is useful, is the water resistance level of this watch. You can use this watch with a Bell & Ross rubber strap as well, and that would make it perfectly useful for a swim. This rectangular shaped watch is very comfortable on the wrist. Although I could probably handle its bigger brother, the BR 01-92 (which is 46mm), this one sits perfectly on my (large) wrist. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Heritage thick luminous hour markers and logo are a joy to glance at when wearing this Instrument watch. The 4 screws in the dial (for attaching/de-attaching the movement) are part of the ‘flight panel’-look and do not disturb me whatsoever. The small round date window is located between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock and keeps the dial very clean.