TAG Heuer released a slew of new models for Watches & Wonders, including a Superdiver Aquaracer with a Kinnesi movement (more on that later). Their most compelling release may be the most accessible in the solar powered Tag Heuer Aquaracer Pro 200 Solargraph. This is an all-black affair with a trick carbon bezel, efficient solar movement, and trim case dimensions. It also utilizes the best parts of the new Aquaracer design language, with ridged dial and no cyclops. There’s a lot of watch packed into this 40mm, black DLC frame.
TAG Heuer is splitting their Aquaracer family into two different categories, one geared for diving, and one for the outdoors (though they still have perfectly adequate depth ratings). The Solargraph falls into that latter category, relying on sunlight (or any light, really) to charge its battery-less movement, the TH50-00, that was developed by La Joux-Perret for TAG Heuer. This is the first time the brand has used a solar powered movement, and it makes a good deal of sense here. The Tag Heuer Aquaracer Pro 200 Solargraph movement needs just a couple of minutes in the light to properly charge for a day, and about 20 hours worth for a full charge, which will last 6 months. With any regular use this watch should remain in usable condition, assuming you spend any time at all around a light source. This movement also keeps the case ultra wearable and light, which is a welcome move for a watch geared toward outdoor use, whatever that might entail. The steel case is PVD black, hosting a black dial with white hands and hour markers for crisp contrast. There’s not much in the way of color, save for the light blue seconds hand and hour plots. The bezel is carbon with ribbons of lume appearing organically throughout. It’s a great touch on an otherwise straightforward watch and provides a great deal of visual personality in both light and dark settings. A black rubber strap ties everything together and wears quite comfortably, though I reckon all manner of fabric or nylon straps would really sing on this one. We’ll find out once we get our hands on a sample to put through its paces. Outdoors, of course. As for the great re-positioning of the Aquaracer family, I look forward to seeing how both this Tag Heuer Aquaracer Pro 200 Solargraph watch and the Superdiver lay the groundwork for more fleshed out collections of watches. The name will still throw you for a loop, but if we get more general use, simply built outdoor watches like this, I’m all for it.
Bell and Ross BR 03-92 Diver
In the time I spent with the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver I came to think of it as an armoured car. Not the conspicuously bulked-up and blinged-out vehicle beloved by the A-list, instead this diver is more akin to the subtly strengthened Land Cruiser, one that looks significantly like the regular model, but can handle IEDs and assault rifles. To me that’s what this Bell & Ross is — a super tough take on the brand’s famous instrument watch.
It’s the case that really earned the armoured car analogy. From a quick glance, the BR 03-92 Diver shares the same 42mm steel case, but look closer and you’ll notice that quite a lot has changed to earn that 300-metre water resistance rating. The sapphire crystal is significantly super-sized, at 2.85mm thick, and the caseback, with its four screws, is a millimetre thicker than regular, non-diving models. And while these modifications would go largely unnoticed, the block crown guards and solid unidirectional bezel give the dive watch game away.
Bell & Ross dials have always prioritised function and legibility, and this diver is no exception, even though the execution is a little atypical. Instead of the more traditional Arabic hour markers, this watch has the system of dots and dashes that is fairly stock in trade for the diving genre. Similarly, the hands are relatively simple and straight, with ample lume. The hour hand is distinguished in orange, to avoid any confusion underwater. There’s a lollipop pip on the seconds hand — another requirement of the ISO standard for dive watches, allowing you to quickly see that your watch is functioning in low visibility. That subtle date at four isn’t required, but it is handy. The theme of tried, true and tough extends to the movement, as Bell & Ross has opted for the SW 300 to power this watch. Given the price, and the fact that the movement is hidden away, it’s an absolutely understandable choice. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver movement is shielded from magnetic influence thanks to an iron cage. Heavier than you’d expect. Bell & Ross’ instrument watches have never been delicate on the wrist, but this diver really amps up both the weight and the visual impact. The stubby lugs and wide rubber strap make it a comfortable wearer, and not too top-heavy.
As I said in my video review, my initial surprise at a Bell & Ross quickly transformed into surprise that we hadn’t seen a square diver earlier. Square divers are pretty uncommon, and offer a nice alternative to the parade of circular models that we usually see. I think it’s a really strong move from the brand and one that opens up some interesting new doors for future collections.
Bell and Ross – BR 05 DIAMOND
With this new chapter, launched in 2019, Bell & Ross has entered the urban landscape. As a new line, the possibilities are endless and the design of the BR 05 opens up an immense scope for creativity.
For this new version, the brand has worked to highlight the precious side of this Urban Instrument. As a result, the BR 05 has turned into a precious gem: the BR 05 DIAMOND.
Reflecting the finest Haute Horlogerie craftsmanship, this timepiece mirrors the architectural modern design of the brand’s latest urban collection. The lines of its 40-mm case combine round and square, the basic geometric shapes which form the identity of Bell & Ross.
For the BR 05 DIAMOND, the bezel of the steel case is set with 172 diamonds, equivalent to a weight of 0.88 carats.
For optimum legibility, the black sunray dial contrasts perfectly with the applique white numerals and metal skeletonised hour and minute hands, all filled with Super-LumiNova. The 11 diamonds (0.08 ct) replace the indexes, while the small date takes its place at 3 o’clock.
One dial but three possibilities to wear. For a sporty chic touch, the black rubber strap is perfect, while the satin-polished steel bracelet will provide its wearer an elegant look. Last but not least, a luxury version made of steel, and set with 218 diamonds – weighting 2.84 ct – will complete the range. To set the bezel, which offers a large setting surface, Bell & Ross opted for the circle alternative. A total of three concentric circles of diamonds around the opening. On the other hand, in the articulation links, the setting is linear. Both the circle and the straight line give a clean and graphic look to the setting.
The timepiece adorns a BR-CAL.321. mechanism, wound by a 360° oscillating weight. The sapphire glass case-back reveals the beating heart of this movement.
The BR 05 DIAMOND combines technicity, elegance and sophistication in an integrated design. It will appeal not only to art lovers, aesthetes, watch collectors, but also to men and women looking for singularity.
Staying true to its commitment to instrument watches, Bell & Ross shines it up a little in the new BR 05 Diamond watch by adding diamonds to the case, dial and bracelet — a first for the brand for this model. The 40mm case is the famed square with a round dial that has made the brand so popular, but now the bezel is set with 172 diamond brilliants, the dial boasts 11 diamond markers, and the stainless steel bracelet is set with 218 diamonds — for a total of 2.84 carats. It is powered by an automatic mechanical movement.
Bell and Ross BR S BLACK
A few years ago Bell & Ross released their first women’s version of the BR 01 style watch called the BRS (which I first discussed here). The idea of the watch was to be a smaller, more fashion oriented version of the BR 01 done in ceramic. Available in black or white ceramic, it is hard to argue that Bell & Ross wasn’t at least partially influenced by the success of the Chanel J12. Lovely in its design the BRS cannot really be categorized as strictly a woman’s watch, but that is the intended market as I see it.
Bell & Ross experimented with ceramic before the BRS, and since the BRS has continued to offer good looking ceramic watches in various forms. The hard material makes for a good looking case that when polished retains the sheen forever really. The BRS case is a 39mm wide square and is very thin. I believe that originally Bell & Ross wanted to include a manually-wound mechanical movement in the BRS, but later decided that a Swiss quartz movement was best. I tend to agree as women often prefer the convenience of quartz movements, especially if they have a range of watches that they wear.
Unlike the BR 01, the BRS has a removable caseback which shows that the design of the case is different as opposed to being merely miniaturized. Though visually that is how it looks. The iconic square case is here complete with the large screws on the top of the case. You will however notice that the lug structures are different and better designed for the small case dimensions.
The white ceramic BRS is certainly more feminine that this black version and combines white ceramic with polished steel. On a patent leather strap all versions of the watch are rather feminine, but you can alter that look by placing the BRS on a different strap. For example, imagine this black one on a NATO strap and you can see how that can make it more unisex in design.
Water resistant to 50 meters, the case has an AR coated sapphire crystal. Looking at the dial you can see the evolution from the BR 01. The BRS has a more elegant dial with a subsidiary seconds dial. True to the theme, the hands and hour markers are all coated in SuperLumiNova.
For those wanting more of a jewelry look Bell & Ross offers the BRS watch collection (both the black and white models) with diamonds on the bezel. I’ve seen BRS watches on women “out in the wild” and I really like the look on feminine wrists. It isn’t something for everyone though due to the size and style, but I think Bell & Ross makes a rather persuasive argument for a nice looking womens’ collection with the BRS.
Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey
Although it’s best known among enthusiasts for its defiantly avant-garde designs and cutting-edge materials, Hublot also has a genuine commitment to the world of modern art. Over the years, the brand has collaborated with high-profile artists ranging from Richard Orlinski to Takashi Murakami, but few partnerships have been as lasting or as fruitful as its relationship with American artist Shepard Fairey. Best known for his bold “Obey” iconography and the world-famous “Hope” poster campaign used during Barack Obama’s 2008 presidential campaign, Fairey’s street art-infused style has been the basis for several distinctive Hublot references since 2018. For its latest collaborative design, Hublot brings an aggressive black-on-black look to Fairey’s recurring theme of the mandala. The new limited edition Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey is a sharp, unapologetically bold distillation of Fairey’s street art ethos, and one that should become a coveted piece among Shepard Fairey collectors.
At 45mm-wide and 13.4mm-thick, the matte-black ceramic case of the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey cuts an imposing figure on the wrist, but it’s the finishing here that immediately catches the eye. Although the overall surface is bead-blasted, the bezel and main case body are crisscrossed with an ornate engraved pattern. This sweeping arabesque motif can feel almost chaotic at first glance, but a closer look reveals it to be a seamless continuation of the mandala pattern on the skeleton dial. This holistic pattern gives the design an impressively unified feel and makes a traditionally stealthy blacked-out design into a watch that commands attention on the wrist. The 12 o’clock side of the case body adds an extra layer of decoration, with an engraved ray pattern extending across the case sides and integrated lugs. Underneath this ornate engraving, however, this is the same Aerofusion Chronograph platform as the standard production model and should feel familiar to fans of the brand. Hublot fits this model with a sapphire display caseback, and rates the watch for a somewhat underwhelming 50 meters of water resistance.
The dial of the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey offers an extremely ornate blacked-out pattern but remains solidly legible for a black-on-black skeleton design thanks to intelligent finishing decisions. The repeating floral mandala pattern radiates out from the dial center, with indices and subdial rings appearing to float over gaps in the dial thanks to a lower dial layer in sapphire. Although the main handset visually fades into the background at some angles, with even minor amounts of direct light, the polished surfaces make these faceted batons stand out starkly against the darker backdrop. This extends to the subdial hands as well, but the applied faceted indices are less effective in this regard. With this in mind, the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey is as much about translating Fairey’s art into a wearable form as it is about creating a usable timepiece, and in this regard, the design succeeds brilliantly. The central stack of the handset is obscured by a rendition of Fairey’s famous “Obey” emblem printed onto the underside of the crystal, creating a seamless mandala design that runs from the center of the dial all the way down the case sides. Even the 6 o’clock date display is cleanly integrated into the pattern, with a stenciled skeleton date wheel that preserves the visual depth of the intricate layered mandala.
Hublot equips the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey with the modular ETA-based HUB1155 automatic chronograph movement. While purists may decry the use of a non-manufacture movement at this level, the HUB1155 is a reliable, easy-to-maintain platform that offers a decent if unspectacular 42 hours of power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. Hublot’s finishing on the HUB1155 is clean and contemporary, with predominantly brushed bridges and a dynamic signed skeleton rotor. To complete the package, Hublot pairs the watch with an integrated grooved strap in supple black rubber.
With an aggressive black-on-black colorway and an impressively ornate continuous mandala pattern, the limited edition Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey offers a stylishly punchy and aggressive translation of Fairey’s work to the wrist. Only 50 examples of the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey will be made, and the watch is available now exclusively through Hublot’s North American boutiques and the brand’s U.S. e-commerce platform.
Bell and Ross BR V2-94
One of the most fashionable new watches at Baselworld 2019 was, not surprisingly, released by Paris-based Bell & Ross. Using the BR V2-94 watch collection as a base, the new-for-2019 limited-edition reference BRV294-BC-BR/SCA BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze combines a “rich look” with affordability in a non-tarnishing bronze case. On the wrist, you’d be hard-pressed not to think this watch was solid gold when viewing it from a few feet away. Enthusiasts, however, know that its wearer is more practical than flamboyant, opting for great design and aesthetics over sheer showing-off.
That isn’t to say the Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze is a budget watch, at just under $5,000 — but it sure costs less than if the case were in gold. Bell & Ross’s BR V2-94 case is 41mm-wide and paired with actual screw-down chronograph pushers and a matching crown. The rear of the watch has a bellytanker automobile motif printed on the exhibition caseback window, as this is part of the Bell & Ross Bellytanker watch collection that debuted not too long ago.
Inside the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze watch is a Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movement (that they call the BR-CAL. 301) with a lightly decorated movement visible through the rear of the case. The chronograph on the dial is laid out with only one subdial (the other subdial is for the running seconds) making it a 30-minute chronograph. A small circular window between 4 and 5 o’clock has the date using a discreet black-colored disc.
Black and gold with some hints of red mark the attractively designed Bellytanker Bronze dial. The gold-toned subdials are a nice touch and remind me of the color palettes of certain Everose gold Rolex Daytona watch models. As I said above, Bell & Ross didn’t choose oxidizing bronze but rather a stable bronze alloy. This is an important distinction because the bronze alloys that helped popularize bronze as a modern watch material do, in fact, “patina” over time. This Bell & Ross with a bronze case (and some other watches out there) opted for a metal alloy that does not oxidize and subsequently patina. The watch will, of course, scratch, but it won’t start to get green or black over time. I prefer stable bronze, more often than not, and given that the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze is going for a more chic (versus antique) look, I agree with Bell & Ross’ decision use stable bronze for the case.
Bell and Ross BR 05 Copper Brown
A new Copper Brown watch from Bell & Ross will join the brand’s three-hand BR 05 family.
It revisits the famous square case with a round opening and screws at the four corners of the iconic BR 03 design.
Creative Director and Co-founder of Bell & Ross, Bruno Belamich, explained “You have to breathe life into a range. It can be achieved through technique (movement), materials, or details. For the BR 05 Copper Brown, we chose the colour.”
When presented in 2019, the 3-hand BR 05 range offered three different dial colours; black, silver grey and navy blue.
Today’s release is the brand 4th iteration, offering the watch in metallic brown with copper highlights.
As its name suggests, this watch is adorned with a golden-brown dial, enriched by a sunburst finishing which gives shine and a sense of preciousness recalling the light of the end of a summer’s day.
This colour was developed specifically for the BR 05, which is the only Bell & Ross watch to feature it.
Two main operations make it possible to obtain this tone and this particular depth:
– Machining: The sunburst effect is obtained by circular micro-engraving of the metal plate of the dial. This work gives all its luminosity to the colour which varies according to the inclination of the dial.
– Varnishing. Several coats of transparent varnish in brown are applied to the metal plate of the dial which gives its depth, and its uniqueness to the colour of the Copper Brown.
Mr Belamich recalls: “Brown is a colour that is increasingly in demand in watchmaking. It’s an easy-towear, stylish colour commonly found in the modern man’s wardrobe.
“The BR 05 Copper Brown is intended for elegant city dwellers looking for a chic, dressy, contemporary watch. Its mainstream light brown hue, which recalls the soft leather tints, is easy to wear every day.”
For a sportier feeling, the BR 05 Copper Brown is also available on rubber strap which comes in a colour, specifically developed for it, harmonising perfectly with the light brown of the dial.
This watch is powered by the in-house self-winding BR-CAL 321 calibre.
Bell & Ross’ BR 05 series has become increasingly diverse in recent months, introducing precious metals and additional complications to the collection. However, Bell & Ross haven’t forgotten about the steel, three-hand model at the core of the range, expanding it with a new dial option: the BR 05 Copper Brown. When the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection was first introduced, it added a simpler and more versatile interpretation to the aviation-themed, circle-in-square design that made the Parisian brand famous. The collection, which started with three-handed models, gained versions such as GMT and chronograph over time and developed in terms of color and material options. The newest member of the modern collection, on the other hand, has turned its eyes to the BR 05 product group again with its copper-toned dial.
As we march full into the autumn season and the leaves begin to fall, we’re enticed by pumpkin spiced lattes and urged to seek out sweaters to shield ourselves from breezy winds. But, for those that need an extra accessory to liven their outfits and keep them on time, Bell & Ross has released the brand new “BR 05 Copper Brown
Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smile
Richard Mille has unveiled its latest technical, creative and forward-minded timepiece: the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley. The watch, which took three years to develop, celebrates the iconographic Smiley illustration, drawn by Franklin Loufrani over 50 years ago.
The time-teller is decorated with myriad happy micro-sculptures crafted by Olivier Kuhn, including a blossoming flower, warm sunrays, a delectable-looking pineapple, a thriving cactus, a pink flamingo and a bright rainbow. Inside the watch’s white ATX ceramic case, each gold miniature is strategically placed around the central Smiley motif and applicquéd atop an auxiliary baseplate. Notably, the striking Smiley motif, which is micro-blasted and painted yellow gold, is situated above the detailed landscape from atop the motion-work bridge, which features polished anglage and drawn edges.
On the mechanical side, the watch is equipped with the new CRMT7 calibre, a skeletonized automatic tourbillon movement with hour, minute and function displays. The design’s bridges, made of grade 5 titanium, are coated with a complex double PBD coating in black and gold, a finish that also appears on the back of the baseplate. Outside, the crown bears the signature Smiley icon and the caseband appears in red gold.
The RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley is limited to only 50 units. Take a look at the imaginative timepiece in the gallery above, and learn more on Richard Mille’s website.
Richard Mille RM 88 Tourbillon Smiley. Only $1.2 Million USD. The new Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley, with its three-dimensional aesthetics and splendid colors, takes on the vivid quality of a waking dream. A playfully colorful, poetic, and lively creation limited to 50 watches.
The playful timepiece is limited to only 50 units. Richard Mille has unveiled its latest technical, creative and forward-minded timepiece: the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley. The watch, which took three years to develop, celebrates the iconographic Smiley illustration, drawn by Franklin Loufrani over 50 years ago.
In keeping with watchmaking tradition, all finishing operations on the RM 88 Smiley are carried out by hand. In a manner similar to that of a car’s gearbox, the function indicator allows one to see the winding and hand-setting positions as the crown is pulled out. The active position is indicated via a hand at 3 o’clock.
Bell and Ross BR 126
This is the Bell & Ross 126 Sport and it is one of the most important watches currently sold by the sometimes polarizing French brand. Bell & Ross is a recognizable luxury brand thanks to their line of instrument-style watches like the BR 01 and its many iterations. These square-cased watches offer owners a chance of effectively wearing an aeronautical gauge on their wrist as their design has been derived from the legible military styling of an airplane instrument cluster. Both airplane gauges and watches find value in a similar sort of styling, mainly one based in contrast and simplicity with the primary goal being accuracy and legibility of the displayed values.
While Bell & Ross may be best known for their instrument lines, the brand has recently been on something of a tear, expanding the scope of their aesthetic with a range of vintage-inspired watches which are meant to echo the military and war-time roots of pilot’s watches. While we have shown you both the BR 123, BR 126 Original, and a highlight of the 126 Sport, we felt the need to try a 126 Sport on for a couple of weeks to offer a more complete view of this small but important variation of the BR 126 lineup (tough job, but you can thank me later).
The Bell & Ross 126 Sport is a 41mm sport chronograph featuring a bi-compax (two sub dial) layout. The main difference between the BR 126 and the BR 126 Sport is the addition of a thin fixed bezel which does give the 126 Sport a more… sporty look. While technically part of Bell & Ross’ “Vintage” line, the 126 Sport doesn’t exhibit any of the usual vintageshorthand we have seen in other watches like faux aged luminous paint, special markings or logos, or the use of retro-style hands/markers. The 126 Sport is a more simplified and modern example of a watch meant to suggest a certain respect for its lineage, if such a thing exists. With styling that is essentially a more military and pilot inspired take on the Omega Speedmaster, I think the BR 126 looks outstanding.
The bezel is 43mm wide so this 41mm watch wears a bit bigger than its listed size would suggest. Factoring for the size of the bezel and proportionally large dial, the BR 126 Sport wears like a perfectly modern sport watch and has a lot of wrist presence for a completely monochromatic watch.
The BR 126 Sport is powered by an ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movement, which can be seen via the sapphire display back. The ETA 2894 is essentially an ETA 2892A2 (top tier ETA three hand and date) which has been modified to offer a two dial chronograph. The chronograph displays its reading via the left sub dial (30 minute measure) and the full-size seconds hand. Running seconds for standard time are shown on the right sub dial. The dial design is simple, balanced and very legible with crisp markers and long thin hands. The BR 123/126 signature over sized 6 and 12 markers are still here and add a bit of casual military appeal to the 126 Sport dial design.
The chronograph controls are quite conventional with the start/pause assigned to the top pump-style pusher and reset assigned to the lower pusher. The action for the pushers is heavy and leaves no doubt that the pusher has been actuated (see video for example). The crown offers control of time and date setting. The BR 126 Sport is water resistant to 100m as the crown does not screw down. The sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating and does a good job of managing reflections given its domed nature. The sapphire crystal sits on top of the bezel with the edge of the crystal exposed rather than being flush-mounted with the edge of case. This crystal application gives the 126 Sport a vintage feel, but may cause the crystal, especially its edge, to be more susceptible to damage from daily wear (see video for a better view of this). On the wrist, the polished steel case is bright and nicely compliments the flat black dial and polished hands and markers. The 126 Sport wears large enough but is actually only 51mm lug to lug and 13mm tall, including the domed sapphire crystal. Weight comes in at a completely reasonable 104g on the pictured black leather strap and deployment clasp.
As we previously reported, the Bell & Ross 126 Sport carries a retail price of $4500 USD which is pricey but not surprising given both average Bell & Ross prices and the varied competition in this range. So what makes the Bell & Ross 126 Sport so important? It expands their brand into a more traditional space. While there is nothing wrong with the BR 01, the iconic Bell & Ross instrument watches are a love or hate affair, much like the Omega Ploprof. I think the 123/126/126 Sport lineup offers a more accessible and versatile response to a buyer who appreciates Bell & Ross but isn’t all that enamored by their instrument style watches. The 126 Sport is certainly not Bell & Ross re-inventing the wheel but it is a very attractive point in their evolution of expanding their main lineup to include models with more mass-market appeal. I have to agree with Ariel’s assessment that the BR 126 Sport is an excellent option for someone looking for a well rounded, nicely made, and versatile daily wearer.
Bell and Ross BR X1 Tourbillon
For 2022, Bell & Ross has updated the BR 01 collection with the BR-X1 (hands-on here) which takes the classic square-shaped cockpit instrument-inspired Bell & Ross watch design and renders it in its most modern look ever. aBlogtoWatch staff members were surprisingly satisfied with the Bell & Ross BR-X1 despite the watches being on the pricier side of what we’ve come to expect from the brand. So, in the spirit of very high-end Bell & Ross watches, here is the Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillons – which comes in four limited editions all costing well .
Bell & Ross is no stranger to the tourbillon, having created a few such models over the years, starting with some interesting movements developed for them by movement specialists in Switzerland. You’ll see the base movement in the Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon sitting in other watches produced in the luxury watch industry – and to be honest, among them, the Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon is not wildly priced (comparatively speaking, that is). Bell & Ross hasn’t quite had the thunder it did a few years ago, but we still believe they make some very compelling products. So why a new tourbillon, and why now?
When meeting with Bell & Ross, you get the idea that things are changing. People might be moving internally, and overall, there is the sense that top-level management has decided to shake things up… so maybe some people are nervous (I don’t really know). What I can, however, predict is that the customer is going to win. Either there will be better marketing and a more concentrated product collection, or a total business revamping of the brand with new people and new ideas. So maybe these Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillons are the last hurrah of the “old” way at Bell & Ross. Maybe these are the pinnacle of what the BR 01 collection has come to. They even come – for what I believe is the first time… with diamonds. Yes, folks, that is right. The cockpit instrument panels of the future will ALL be lined with diamonds. So many bright things to look forward to.
It really does feel like a farewell party for the BR 01 on its 10th anniversary. I suppose, there are so many out there that Bell & Ross could take a break from making them for a while, wait for demand to catch up, and then bring them back by “popular demand.” Thanks, Corum Bubble! It is true what people say. Everyone does love a good comeback, and if anyone knows that better than the watch industry, I would like to meet them. Brands today are looking at what happens in the vintage market to, perhaps, end product collections, only to plan on bringing them back in the future. The vintage appeal of tomorrow might be much more calculated that the appeal of many vintage watches today.
Again, take all of this with a grain of salt. I have no idea what Bell & Ross is planning on doing. I’m just having a conversation with myself over what they might do to combat what some have said is a bit of brand stagnation. I mean, these are smart people running a major business; if things aren’t going right, they move the direction of the ship a bit.
Going back to the Bell & Ross BR-X1 case, it is the same 45mm-wide size of the BR 01 but with a wildly different design which looks like a watch version of a Transformer. This is like Hublot DNA got into Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillons and had fun. And that isn’t a bad thing. This is a great look for Bell & Ross, and helps show that it can be done with a square watch case design. That really isn’t easy. Of course, the case is a bit thicker, but that isn’t too big of a deal, given how tall some people like their watches to be. You have to understand that a decade ago when Bell & Ross first released the BR 01, people freaked out about the size. No, I never did, but some people were offended by the idea. What Bell & Ross didn’t realize was that it was ushering in a market for the much higher-end nice luxury sport watch industry that goes up to Richard Mille.
The coolest “functional” elements of the case design are the switch-style chronograph pushers. They work very well, but you can get them with the BR-X1 non-tourbillon models. For the Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillons, Bell & Ross is only making the cases in either titanium or 18k rose gold.
On the wrist, I think they look really cool. They aren’t for everyone, but they have a great presence and are going to be very good for those who want a modern military style with a bit more grace than some of the competition that goes a bit overboard on the small details. Straps are rubber with a layer of alligator in them. It sounds weird, but wears really well.
