The United States Army Air Corps standardized paint colors to be used on military assets in 1939. The Joint Aircraft Committee’s Subcommittee on Standardization elected to implement the the ANA (Army Navy Aircraft) color standard. This color standard created ANA 616, otherwise known as “Desert Sand.” Much like Olive Drab, this color has come to define military equipment, and to the general public it’s instantly recognizable as something purely tactical, as well as functional.
So it’s no surprise that Bell and Ross BR V2-92 chose the color scheme for the dial of the new Bell and Ross BR V2-92 sports watch. The company has made a name – and defined an identity – with large square-cased watches designed after cockpit instrumentation. But the V2-92 is nothing like those – instead it thoughtfully straddles a number of traditional watch categories. The V2-92 has the face of a field watch, the bezel of a dive watch, and the personality of something straight from Operation Desert Shield.
There’s a certain balance to this watch that’s hard to come by; the models typically associated with Bell & Ross don’t quite exemplify the same sort of utilitarian design that the Bell and Ross BR V2-92 gets right. It’s a total military mash-up, with design elements borrowed from field watches and dive watches packaged in a thin case. The domed crystal adds some additional thickness, for a total of 12mm thickness overall, but thanks to the thin case and high domed crystal you still get a very wearable watch.
The late ’80s saw the arrival of the Desert Battle Dress Uniform as the US military presence in desert regions increased. It was nicknamed “cookie dough camouflage” for its hues of tan and brown. The Bell and Ross BR V2-92 feels like it could have been issued right alongside this battle dress uniform, but could it stand up to the same rigors?
One hundred meters of water resistance puts it closer to field watch territory than in the dive watch camp, and the bi-directional bezel doesn’t offer the same sort of safety as a unidirectional bezel, but I don’t think this is the watch to take diving anyway. It’s a sort of do-it-all watch; a jack of all trades that sacrifices doing one thing really well in order to do a good job at the mix of situations an everyday watch is used for. I don’t think the target demographic will take any points off for the one-in-a-million chance that a bezel gets knocked off by a few clicks underwater. From a purely practical standpoint, a bi-directional bezel makes more sense anyway; when you have gloves on, you want to turn the bezel the least amount of distance possible. What this also means is that typical “bezel slop” isn’t present, instead you get an affirmative click in either direction. A display caseback may also contribute to the level of water resistance, but it frames the lightly finished BR-CAL.302 nicely.
While the enthusiast world might have trouble with date wheels, the Swiss industry as a whole just doesn’t seem to want to let them go. Naturally, there is a date wheel on this model, but it’s integrated so thoughtfully that it shouldn’t bother even the most cranky no-date purist (I’m one of them). The date wheel is color matched, and this isn’t a standard black or white-dialed watch, either. It’s a very specific hue of military beige, and the window is rather small. Again, this watch strikes an admirable balance between typically competing camps.
The Bell and Ross BR V2-92 wears the same typography as other Bell & Ross watches, but it appears softer, and the domed crystal distorts and diffuses it in a way that tones down the boldness found of some of the better-known models in the line. The bracelet also features polished center links. It balances out the hardcore tool watch aesthetic, but it’s also something you would never find on a watch that was actually engineered for the military in the modern era, anyway. You will, however, find an elastic canvas strap made famous by the Marine Nationale, included with the V2-92. Originally, the legend goes, paratroopers fashioned straps for their issued watches from the stretchy parachute webbing. The Bell & Ross strap features color-matched desert tan-accented black paracord.
The “vintage-inspired” branding is perhaps manifested in the domed crystal, but this watch certainly channels an earlier era of Bell & Ross, an era when the nascent company released watches like the Type Démineur, a watch designed for bomb disposal units, or the Space 3, a chrono that just screams “shuttle era.” Bell & Ross watches were initially produced by tool watch maker Sinn; the V2-92 shares a lot of the same design language as the Sinn-era Bell & Ross models, and that’s a wonderful thing.
Collectors are now considering watches from the ’80s and ’90s as “vintage,” and the V2-92 is branded as a vintage-inspired timepiece. The design of the watch, much like that of the A-10 Warthog that shined during the Desert Shield conflict in 1990, works just as well in 2022.
Bell and Ross BR V2-93 GMT
The search for a good GMT watch never ends – and one of Bell & Ross’ latest entrants to this crowded two-time zone arena is the BR V2-93 GMT. Continuing on with Bell & Ross vintage and military history-inspired modern day luxury timepiece tradition, the BR V2-93 GMT blends a series of design elements into one rather cohesive product. One of the most popular types of watches for enthusiasts, GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watches are useful because they show two time zones on the same dial allowing them to serve as ideal travel companions. Given that people who enjoy high-end timepieces also happen to travel quite a bit – the popularity of GMT watches for the enthusiast should be easy to understand.
Bell & Ross is no stranger to GMT watches and the BR V2-93 GMT is the newest design flavor more so than adding something radically new from a technological or material perspective. Detailing on the BR V2-93 GMT watch is very good and it is interesting to investigate the various classic wristwatch designs that Bell & Ross pulled from as inspiration for this product. In my opinion, this BR V2-93 GMT is a design amalgamation mixing elements of classic Rolex timepieces and the cockpit instrument design favored by major Bell & Ross military and aviation-themed watches.
It’s the curation of design elements, as well as the elegance of the design which is novel here, and I think Bell & Ross did a good job. If only because even though there are a lot of recognizable parts on the BR V2-93 GMT – it doesn’t immediately look like any other GMT watch currently on the market. That is always a challenge because a brand like Bell & Ross thrives by finding the sweet spot between “familiar” and “novel.” That means they are at their best when a customer associates a new watch product with the right type of aesthetic theme but does not confuse the new watch for something which already exists.
The orange arrow GMT hand is probably the most recognizable element borrowed from the world of Rolex – being similar to those used on various Rolex Explorer II models. The rest of the dial very much fits the cockpit instrument clock aesthetic which has been tied to Bell & Ross since the 2004 release of the BR01 Instrument collection. Since then Bell & Ross has rendered this dial design in a vast number of ways and in a range of case designs. The flat, slightly glossy black dial used high contrast thick-printed hour markers and attractive lume-painted hands. Note that the faceted hands are satin-finished on one half and polished on the other. I love this look and tend to gravitate toward this type of hand design. This mixture of elements offers a bit of a dressy look combined with the functional heritage that such a Bell & Ross dial is best known for. The dial is elegant, legible, and very distinctly a Bell & Ross while at the same time it evokes classic design elements beloved by generations of watch enthusiasts.
Over the dial is a “box-style” domed sapphire crystal design to mimic the shape of some traditional acrylic crystals. An effective application of AR (anti-reflective) coating ensures a glare-free viewing experience when you look at straight-on. Around the dial is a bi-directional rotating bezel with 24 positions. The bezel turns assuredly with solid notched for each of the 24 positions. This is the only scale for the GMT hand, but turning it can help you reference an additional third timezone if you know how to use this feature correctly. Bell & Ross gave the GMT bezel and attractive two-tone design mixing black with gray. I think it was a nice way to offer the “AM/PM” look of a bezel without making it too colorful. The color on this watch is sparse (on purpose) and limited to a bit of dial text and the matching orange GMT hand). My only gripe about the bezel is that it is in traditional anodized aluminum. That makes for a nice vintage look, but today’s watch buyers are increasingly interested in modern bezel materials such as ceramic which boast far better scratch resistance. The good news is aluminum bezel inserts are inexpensive and easy to replace – if you scratch up your bezel on the BR V2-93 GMT watch badly.
Bell and Ross BR V1-92
I have said it before and I’ll say it again – vintage-inspired watches were big this year at SIHH and Baselworld. First there was Jaeger-LeCoultre, then Omega, then Oris, and now Bell & Ross. Despite this trend being relatively new to the market, for Bell & Ross this is old news. This year at Baselworld, Bell & Ross released the third installment of vintage-inspired watches that they have produced since 1997, shortly after their founding in 1992. While other manufactures threw back to original mid-century designs and faux patina, Bell & Ross produced a fresh line of chronographs and three-hand watches, like the Bell and Ross BR V1-92.
The Bell and Ross BR V1-92 is one third of the third generation of vintage-inspired watches released by Bell & Ross. Truth be told, Bell & Ross has never really done it for me in the past (the square cases from the Marine and Instruments Collections just aren’t my thing), but I was really impressed by the clean lines and well-proportioned case and dial designs that I saw in this third generation of watches. The Bell and Ross BR V1-92 in particular really struck me as a great entry-level watch with both good presence and strong design.
The Bell and Ross BR V1-92 features a 38.5mm satin-finished stainless steel case that I think is the Goldilocks of case sizes (suits almost everyone). The case shape is a classic one, with traditional lugs and minimal bezel, which sits well on the wrist and wears really comfortably. The thing that is so nice about using classic lugs such as these is they curve nicely over your wrist. Another detail I love is the ampersand on the well-sized crown – a small, nice additional bit of graphic punch.
The dial is a rich matte black with bright white indexes on the minutes, hours, and Arabic numerals on the quarter hours. Of all things to rave about, my biggest thing is you can actually read this watch, because let’s get real, none of us are getting any younger. Sometimes I feel like manufacturers tend to overlook the fact that people need to, you know, tell time? And this is not lost on Bell & Ross. The contrast between the dial, the handset and the numerals make this exceptionally legible. As for that tiny little round date window? It’s no secret I love a date, but sometimes they can look a little like an afterthought and this is better integrated than you often see in watches at this price. And all I can say about this one is, at least this one has a black date disk.
And what about the movement on this watch? It’s a respectable BR-Cal.302 movement, which is Bell & Ross’ take on the Sellita SW300-1, a perfectly respectable automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. It’s this type of thing that allows for the watch to be priced below $2,000, which I think we can all agree is a great thing. On the wrist this watch is very comfortable. The 38.5mm case allows for easy wearing and the satin-finished steel makes the watch feel less bling. Overall, it’s just a really great watch.
While I think we can agree that Bell & Ross isn’t for everyone, this watch certainly is. It’s timeless, well-proportioned, wears nicely on the wrist and has an automatic movement. And the price? Well that’s the best part. At $1,900 this watch can be yours. What is and isn’t expensive is a relative thing but for me, this is a great price for a timepiece with great design and a clean wrist presence.
Bell and Ross BR 05 CHRONO
In September 2022, Paris-based Bell & Ross debuted its most ambitious watch in years: the Bell & Ross BR 05 . The BR 05 (BR05) was ambitious because, for the first time, Bell & Ross was producing a watch simply designed to look and feel good, as opposed to needing inspiration from a particular world of sport or activity (such as flying, racing, or diving). The BR 05’s development was fueled by popular watch collector demand for easy-to-wear steel watches that came on integrated steel bracelets, and in some ways, it shared an aesthetic with watches that came before it. That said, the Bell & Ross BR 05 is most inspired by the past work of Bell & Ross itself. The amazing watch is among the most satisfying I’ve worn in a while — and then Bell & Ross decided to come out with the Chronograph version in the BR 05 Chrono.
Today, I review the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono reference BR05C-BU-ST/SRB in steel with a deep metallic blue dial and matching blued rubber strap. I will readily admit I was reluctant to review a watch so specifically designed to fit on a bracelet… on a strap. I’m actually really glad I did. While it can be particularly satisfying to review a watch such as the BR 05 on the companion bracelet that is designed to go with it, there are times when life doesn’t get any better than a supple rubber strap.
Bell & Ross debuted the BR 05 Chrono about a year after the original three-hand BR 05 models came out. The BR 05 Chrono has the same 42mm-wide steel case, but it is a little bit thicker on account of the automatic chronograph movement. The automatic is, indeed, a bit larger of a watch as compared to the three hand-model, but when worn snug it is very comfortable, and the case proportions are lovely.
Speaking of the case, the BR 05 itself is a thing of beauty that takes the square case look of the Bell & Ross BR 01, then softens it and gives it fancier polished angles and surfaces for the BR 05. It’s the Gerald Genta watch Bell & Ross made — that simple. It also feels like a cousin to the Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph that I reviewed here.
As a tool watch, the BR 05 is still pretty competent, even if it is designed for lifestyle appeal. The case is beefy and water-resistant to 100 meters, with a screw-down crown and a sapphire crystal over the dial. The side of the case has an attractive crown and chronograph pusher guard, and the dial legibility is very good, overall. I particularly like the design of the two subdials, whose shapes mimic that of the BR 05 case itself.
Bell & Ross chose a bit of style of functionality for the dial of the BR 05 Chrono, on account of the fact that the hour-counter chronograph register has been removed, even though the movement offers a full 12-hour chronograph. This means the base Swiss Made ETA 2894-2 automatic movement (which Bell & Ross calls its calibre BR-CAL.301) is outfitted to have a 30-minute chronograph, along with the time and a round date window located between 4 and 5 o’clock on the dial.
Through the rear of the watch you can admire the movement, which has been perlage-decorated for use in the BR 05 Chrono watches and given a custom Bell & Ross wheel spoke-style automatic rotor. This latter design element is a bit random, even though it does tie into the larger DNA of the Bell & Ross brand. The movement operates at 4Hz with about two days of power reserve.
Returning to the watch dial, I really admire how Bell & Ross skillfully played with levels and materials. The combination of slightly recessed subdials, applied hour markers, and the sloped flange ring gives the BR 05’s dial a welcome and handsome sense of depth. While you can opt for a more classic black-dial version, this blue-dial version of the BR 05 Chrono further delights with the dynamic way the dial color plays with the light and goes from deep midnight to glossy ocean blue.
One of the interesting surprises when wearing the BR 05 case on the available (and lower-priced) rubber strap is how much I like it — not only how it feels but how it looks. Visually, the lack of a bracelet actually enhanced visual attention to the case, while also emphasizing its squareness and unique looks. It all sort of blends together when on the matching steel bracelet. Thus, wearing a BR 05 on a strap or a bracelet makes for an entirely different style experience. There is also the matter of simple comfort. The tapering rubber strap is closed with a comfortable fold-over steel push-button deployant clasp. This combination of elements makes for extremely comfortable wearing experiences, as proven to the watch industry by Hublot. Now Bell & Ross has built a product that not only has an available Gerald Genta-style bracelet but also a luxury sports watch rubber strap option. Good for Bell & Ross — because this wearing experience is not really found elsewhere at these price points.
Bell and Ross BR 05 BLUE GOLD
Bell & Ross presents BR 05 Blue Gold, a new addition to the BR 05 collection. This new timepiece combines elegance and sophistication in an integrated design.
Its satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold case offers a subtle contrast with its navy blue sunray dial. Ensuring optimum legibility, the rose gold gilded applique numerals and indices as well as the 18k rose gold gilded skeletonized hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.
The 18k rose gold sapphire case-back gracefully showcases the BR-CAL.321 self-winding movement with a 360° golden oscillating weight. The intense blue dial boosts the golden tone and provides elegance and refinement to this timeless sport chic watch.
With its architectural construction made of surfaces and angles, the BR 05 BLUE GOLD – 40 mm in width – will perfectly fit the wrist of its wearer. Thanks to a hyper flexible bracelet, which articulates easily, the curve of the watch will be in total harmony with the natural contour of the wrist.
Equipped with an ergonomic satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold bracelet, built according to the brand’s codes, this jewel of strength can also be completed with a ribbed blue rubber strap and a satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold folding buckle.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 Blue Gold is the latest addition to the ever-burgeoning BR 05 family of models. In this instance, the 40mm BR 05 case is executed in 18 ct rose gold and paired with a blue sunray dial.
In 2019, Bell & Ross, recognising the pent up demand for steel sports watches, released its BR 05 model. Several brands have witnessed consumers waiting inordinately long periods of time to acquire the watch of their dreams, hence Bell & Ross’s decision to tap into this frustration was a shrewd move.
This inaugural model was offered in three dial options: black, blue and grey. In addition, the model was available with either a steel bracelet or a rubber strap.
At the same time, the brand released a limited-edition skeleton model and also announced its intention to release an 18 ct rose gold version a few weeks later. This latter model featured a black dial and, once again, was offered with a choice of gold bracelet or rubber strap.
Clearly this model has been a commercial success as Bell & Ross has since released additional skeleton options as well as bi-metallic variants. Now the luxury brand has returned with another a gold option, the Bell & Ross BR 05 Blue Gold. Housed in a 40mm case, it is virtually identical to the existing 18 ct rose gold option, except it is presented with a rich blue dial.Newest addition to the collection, the BR 05 goes golden. This timepiece combines elegance and sophistication in an integrated design. The BR 05 BLUE GOLD is the embodiment of functionalism and minimalism. Its satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold case offers a subtle contrast with its navy blue sunray dial. Ensuring optimum legibility, the rose gold gilded applique numerals and indices as well as the 18k rose gold gilded skeletonized hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova. The 18k rose gold sapphire case-back gracefully showcases the BR-CAL.321. mechanism with a 360° golden oscillating weight. The intense blue dial boosts the golden tone and provides elegance and refinement to this timeless sport chic watch.
With its architectural construction made of surfaces and angles, the BR 05 BLUE GOLD – 40 mm in width – will perfectly fit the wrist of its wearer. Thanks to a hyper flexible bracelet, which articulates easily, the curve of the watch will be in total harmony with the natural contour of the wrist. Equipped with an ergonomic satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold bracelet, built according to the brand’s codes, this jewel of strength can also be completed with a ribbed blue rubber strap and a satin-finished and polished 18k rose gold folding buckle. The BR 05 is already an iconic watch thanks to its square shape, its round dial ensuring optimum legibility, its broad dimensions, and the efficiency of its functional design. Made for the city, modern and comfortable, the BR 05 GOLD BLUE is a precious ally for urban explorers for their everyday life in the city. A dialogue of colour and material for a timeless and distinguished piece.
Bell and Ross BR 05 SKELETON
My interest in the Bell & Ross BR 05 has only increased since the original BR 05 watches came out in 2019. The first Bell & Ross BR 05 watch I reviewed on aBlogtoWatch had a skeletonized dial, which is a theme that has been popular with the collection. Bell & Ross also currently offers a standard three-hand non-skeletonized version of the BR 05, a GMT, and also a two-register chronograph (not to mention that the watch is available on both bracelet and strap options). Today, I once again look at a skeletonized version of the BR 05, the reference BR05A-BL-SK-ST/SST Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum, and I happen to think it is very nicely done.
What’s special here is the entirely different way Bell & Ross went about the skeletonized dial experience — different from that of the standard BR 05 Skeleton. What we see is the same skeletonized Bell & Ross caliber BR-CAL.322 automatic movement but done with a different color finishing and with a smoked sapphire crystal above it. This has the effect of de-emphasizing the view into the movement (while still offering it) and allowing the eyes to focus more on the dial itself. The use of the semi-opaque smoked dial is an important step in legibility, which is good because while I like Bell & Ross’ “art watches,” I am always the most impressed when it comes to its tool-style watches. While the BR 05 collection as a whole is less about sport and more about having a nice lifestyle watch, functionality is a key part of the Bell & Ross brand DNA.
As suggested in the “BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum” name, the watch dial is decently illuminated thanks to the Super-LumiNova painted hour markers and hands. Together, you have a combination of a legible tool watch-style dial with the decorative appeal of a skeletonized dial in the handsome BR 05 case and bracelet framework. The Skeleton Nightlum watch happens to be a limited edition, so Bell & Ross is clear that this is one of many design experiments. That said, I found it to be among the more satisfying variants of the three-hand BR 05 watches to date.
The BR 05 case continues to be interesting with a design that was intended to merge everything Bell & Ross was known for up to that point. It is also a product meant to neatly fit into the current popularity of men’s watches that come in integrated bracelets. These offer a more “men’s jewelry” look to wristwatches, as opposed to purely something sporty or functional. Even though the matching steel bracelet is lovely for the Skeleton Nightlum, Bell & Ross does offer an additional limited-edition model (the reference BR05A-BL-SK-ST/SRB) that comes on the rubber strap. While the bracelet is very nice, I actually feel that there is a huge amount of merit to the watch on the strap when it comes to both style and comfort.
The BR-CAL.322 automatic movement operates at 4Hz with about two days of power reserve. It indicates just the time with central hours, minutes, and seconds. The skeletonization is nicely done without going overboard and I like the overall modern masculinity of the watch, which combines the steel, smoky black, and green tones on the dial. The BR-05 case is a 40mm-wide cushion with 100 meters of water resistance. It looks larger than it is but, in actuality, the watch wears very comfortably and modestly. I look forward to ideally getting more wrist time with Bell & Ross BR05 watches like this in the future. Price for the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum
Bell and Ross BR 05 ARTLINE
Created in 2022, the BR 05 is a derivative of the BR 03, Bell & Ross’ watchmaking icon. It uses its general shape, the famous round within the square, inspired by a cockpit instrument. This successful watch forsakes pilots and tarmacs a little to move closer to a more urban universe. The new BR 05 Artline is a variation of the BR 05. It adopts its general shape and in particular its integrated bracelet.
It is called Artline, a term that sums up its concept well. “This name indicates that it incorporates an artistic dimension (art) in its design (line). When you look at it, you immediately think of the American style of the Stream-Line”, explains Bruno Belamich, co-founder of Bell & Ross.
It is a trend in industrial design from the 1930s, with very fluid lines inspired by speed and aerodynamics.
The Franco-Swiss watchmaker has always had a passion for military instrumentation. In general, Bell & Ross watches follow a rather stripped-down design that goes down to the essentials. This BR 05 Artline, on the contrary, dares to dress up, something quite unusual at Bell & Ross. “We wanted to launch a watch that is dressed, decorated. The BR 05 had potential. Its case indeed offers a vast surface to decorate”, says Bruno Belamich.
The brand chooses to move towards relief engraving or gadroon. This type of graphic and slender ornament is associated with traditional know-how, craftsmanship and luxury. This finish subtly adorns the bezel of the BR 05 Artline. The bezel with rounded corners, made in one single piece, is fixed to the case by means of four screws. Its gadroon decoration also adorns the central links of the bracelet so bringing a rare elegance to these elements.
An ornate watch, the BR 05 Artline is a unique Bell & Ross model. “Several references were running through my head while creating this piece”, recalls Bruno Belamich, Creative Director of the brand. “The first of these concerns air travel.”
This watch is powered by the in-house self-winding BR-CAL 321 calibre. The sapphire caseback allows you to contemplate the oscillating weight, the design of which is reminiscent of a sports car rim.
This Artline series is destined to become a collection in its own right at Bell & Ross. In the future, it will welcome other references within it.
The new BR 05 Artline is a limited edition of 250 pieces and is exclusively on sale in Bell & Ross boutiques.
Bell and Ross BR 05 GMT
Bell & Ross goes traveling with its Bell and Ross BR 05 GMT with the new GMT model, adding to their sporty collection a dual timezone watch. We got a sneak peek…well more than a peek, we had the carnet watch for the weekend to test it out. Here is the comprehensive review, with live photographs.
The Bell and Ross BR 05 GMT collection has become an icon in the Bell & Ross lineup. It builds on the strong design aesthetics of a rounded square very successfully, and turned this into a recognizable accessory rounding up the entry level to the luxury sports genre.
The series began with the Automatic released in 2019, and have gained in stature with the Chronograph in 2020, and this year, the GMT. Each of the models have variants – in skeletonized dials, in precious metals and two tone.
The case is the now familiar circle in a square basic design first appearing in the BR03 line. The case design is extended into integrated lugs and further developed to fuse seamlessly with the bracelet. Case diameter remains the same as the base Automatic model at 40mm square. The attractive angular design, with rounded edges are unchanged. The contrasting finishing of the polished chamfers and straight grained satin flat surfaces continues. The sculptured steel structures which act as crown guards are screwed on the case side. The design remain as attractive and fresh as it did when it was first revealed. The bracelet integrates seamlessly to the watch head, and continues the contrasting finishing schema. As we opined in our review of the launch watch, the bracelet itself is a work of art. Aesthetically, it is one with the watch head and beautiful – with the same alternating satin finished and polished surfaces. On the wrist, it is remarkably flexible and comfortable. We were reliably told by the BR team that this is perhaps the most complicated part of the watch. Particular attention has been paid to the arc of the curve, allowing all the components to be perfectly aligned and ensuring the bracelet can adapt seamlessly to any wrist. Running one’s fingers from the case to the bracelet is a nice sensation.
The dial of the BR05 GMT is a very deep, dark black with a very subtle sunray finish, not really visible in the photographs. The numerals are the classical BR05 ones, and are large. These are appliqué with SuperLuminova infilling. The 12, 9 and 6 hour markers are large Arabic numerals, while the other hours are marked with bars with rounded ends. At 3 o’clock, in place of the hour marker, a framed date display is shown. The hour and minute hands are the same large, chunky style with lume infilling. The seconds is mounted centrally and coaxially with the other hands, and is a slim needle with a lozenge counter balance. The Bell and Ross BR 05 GMT or second timezone hand is also a slim hand with a large triangle at the end to serve as the marker. This is red tipped, with lume infilling, and points to the 24 hour indicator in the edge of the dial, where the sloped rehaut is marked for 24 hours in day and night. Even in poor light, or complete darkness, the lume shines bright, and it is easy to read the local time and home/GMT time on the dial. The colour palatte echoes those used on-board flight instruments – dominated by black to minimize reflections, and white to provide good contrast for optimal legibiity. And red for accents. The entire display is clean, clear, and very legible. Overall, the impression on the wrist, remember we wore it for the weekend, is very positive. The watch “hangs” nicely on the wrist, with some heft, but never feeling heavy. And the bracelet wraps around very comfortably.
The movement is visible through the round sapphire porthole in the case back. The back bezel is secured via 4 polished screws, and it finished in a straight graining. The movement used is the BR-CAL.325, and features a full 360° oscillating weight as the automatic winding rotor. This movement looks very similar to the BR-CAL.303 used in the BR03-93 GMT which an automatic movement derived from the ETA 2893-2 with a GMT hand. The same signature full circle rotor is visible. And through it, the movement. Hoewver, the BR-CAL.325 is a new caliber, but uses the basic construction for the second time zone as the BR-CAL.303. The main difference is the base movement and elaboration level on the movements. The base is now a higher spec Sellita SW330-1. The ETA caliber used in the BR-CAL.303 is from the Elaborate range with a brass balance wheel, while the Sellita level chosen by BR for the new movement is equipped with a Glucydur balance wheel. Movement finishing is also specked higher with rodium plated plates and bridges and finer brushing. Beat rate is 28,800 bps, 42 hour power reserve remain unchanged, but it is more stable to position and temperature as it is now regulated to +/-10s a day in 5 positions.
The genre we are focusing on is the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet with a GMT or Dual timezone display.
Starting first with the kings of the genre. Patek Philippe has the Nautilus Ref. 5990, which features a second timezone display, but adds a chronograph to the watch. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Dual Time is another consideration, as is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time. Then we have the Rolex GMT Master II. All masterpieces in their own right, but all targetted at a considerably higher price point than the sub 7.5 grand (SGD) that Bell & Ross is asking for the BR05 GMT. At the pricing level that Bell & Ross is competing at, we find the old stalwart with the Tudor Black Bay GMT being the key proponent. But among the new entrants to the genre, Bell & Ross may be the first GMT/Dual Timezone watch to the post. Chopard does not offer a GMT on its Alpine Eagle line, nor does Moser in its Streamliner. Even Piaget has no GMT model in the Polo lineup.
There is no denying. The Bell and Ross BR 05 GMT is a handsome watch. To us, the aesthetics are unquestioned. Unless you really dislike squares, the BR05 GMT hits the spot. The finishing and craftsmanship is well on point, especially considering the modest pricing it is targeted at. And that in itself is an advantage. When traveling, one does not want to attract attention with the recognizable Rolex on the wrist. And one would be heart broken if one scratches the Nautilus, or Royal Oak during the hectic moments as one travels. The BR05 GMT is thus perfect. Stylish, but does not attract the attention of the shady types. And hardy to be able to take the rigors of travel, as well as modestly priced enough not to need handling with kid gloves. Nice balance for a travel watch. We think. Functionally, the GMT feature adds a lot of convenience to the watch, especially in the context of travel and crossing timezones. Adventures, which sadly, many of us are missing big time, given the travel restrictions imposed by most countries due to the pandemic. But we look in hope of borders opening with no restrictions in the near future, and then, being equipped with a travel watch like the BR05 GMT will be a blessing. In the meantime, the second timezone also serves well as a conference call watch – if one Zooms with colleagues around the world.
Jacob & Co Epic X
When you think about Sport Watches, there are many brands that immediately come to mind. There are plenty of regulars like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, etc… But one brand that threw it’s hat in the ring a few years ago seldom pops up in conversation – That brand is Jacob & Co.
Jacob & Co. offers a solid amount of ultra-complicated, and ultra-blinged watches – it’s arguably what they’re most known for. The Astronomia comes to mind as a prime example of the brand’s penchant for combining exclusivity, high complication, and tons and tons and tons of precious stones. But today, I wanted to take a look at one of the brand’s often overlooked offerings, specifically into the Sport Watch Segment – The Epic X Titanium – A fairly priced, feature-packed, and unique inclusion of a Sports Watch.
Let’s start with where the Jacob & Co Epic X Titanium fits in the overall catalogue for Jacob & Co. And quite simply, it’s the “modest” sport watch category. For starters, the grade 5 Titanium case measures in at a fair 44mm x 12.3mm and is surprisingly lightweight considering the white ceramic inserts. The case itself is very sporty in nature, featured brushed surfaces with polished edges.
The most unique part of the case, and where it gets it’s name, its the extended “X”-Shaped lugs that fasten to the various colored Rubber strap. Initially, and in press images, I’ll admit I wasn’t a fan of the lug design, and felt it was a little bit exaggerated – And likely uncomfortable. I’ve come to thoroughly enjoy them. Because of the steep taper and extended nature, it sits snuggly against the wrist, despite it’s larger size. I didn’t find the watch to pull or twist as I expected, and enjoyed wearing the watch regularly.
The crown was large enough to compliment the hand-wound movement. As many complaints as I’ve seen about the winding process, I found it very clean, easy-to-wind, and well-made. In fact, there was something satisfactory about winding the watch, and seeing the mainspring tighten up at the top of the movement. Additionally, being able to see the gear train through the back made winding the watch very enjoyable.
The Jacob & Co Epic X Skeleton dial nothing short of simply entrancing. The (very) open-worked dial gives view to just how simplified, yet complex the movement actually is. Starting at the 12 o’ clock position is the mainspring, housed in it’s own cage. the entire movement is held in place two (or four depending on how you look at it) vertical bridges that remind me of racing stripes – which isn’t out of character for the Epic X influence. These two bridges hold a vertical brushed and darkened bridge that showcases the watches handset. You’ll notice that it does not have any indices, only a chapter ring – lending to the idea that this is an enthusiast’s watch designed entirely around showcasing the movement.
The movement is predominantly showcased on the left side of the watch. On the right side of the dial is a really cool inlay with some Jacob & Co Epic X branding. While it would typically be difficult to read a the time, the red pips alleviate that very much. I never had a difficult time picking out the time at a glance.
Flipping the watch over, you’ll find the rest of the JCAM02 Skeleton Calibre. The 158 part movement was made solely for Jacob & Co in conjunction with Concepto – A prestigious movement manufacturer. The finishing is top-notch, and there is plenty of visual interest. I found myself enjoying watching the movement during the winding process from the back of the watch. The Manual Wind movement beats at 28,800 VpH and features a 48-Hour Power Reserve. The watch features a generous 100 meters of water resistance.
Overall, the Jacob & Co Epic X was one of the most fun watches I’ve ever had the opportunity to Review. I expected the watch to be bulky, over-the-top, and kitschy, but actually found it to be quite reserved and well fitted into the skeletonized sport watch territory. It’s easy for a watch to feel cheap when it’s oversized and light – And since the 44mm case in Titanium was the feature-set that was bragged, I was concerned.
And being that the price-point can be found well under $20,000 on the secondary market, it’s a solid alternative to some of the big guys at a much lower hit to the wallet.
Read more about the Epic X on the brand’s website.
Wrist Enthusiast would like to the Rodney Howard-Browne and Allen Hawes for providing the Epic X for review.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 A522
Since its inception in 1994, the watchmaker has been telling the time to fighter pilots, drawing inspiration from the precise dashboard instruments of aircraft cockpits. With a passion for mechanics, precision and speed, Bell & Ross has also set its sights on the world of motorsport with a partnership with the Alpine F1 Racing Team.
The BR 03-92 A522 is the latest in the partnership with the renowned racing team. This fruitful collaboration began in 2016, when Bell & Ross entered the premiere motorsport series by partnering the Renault F1 Team. With the team changing its name to Alpine F1 Team in 2021, Bell & Ross remained committed to the racing outfit and its passion and determination to be one of the most prominent teams in the sport.
Through this prestigious partnership, Bell & Ross continues its quest for performance, excellence and innovation. The most recent result of this collaboration is the new BR 03-92 A522, which arrives decked out in the team’s signature colours.
Limited to 999 pieces, the BR 03-92 A522 completes the series of Alpine timepieces, subtly adopting its colour and graphics while meeting the specifications of the team’s drivers. The designated code A522 given to the watch by Bell & Ross is a reference to the Alpine F1 team’s challenger this year, the Alpine A522 racing car.
This new timepiece with its iconic 42 mm ceramic case, combines resistance, lightness and legibility. Reminiscent of the anti-reflective tints of the dashboards, the matt black also respects the codes of a utilitarian design. The matt finish in addition to reduces reflections for better legibility also provides a soft texture to the touch.
On the dial, this sporty timepiece echoes codes and colours of the team. The white and blue is a prominent reference to the speedometer of the Alpine car and the team’s signature colour code. Large white numerals coated with Super-LumiNova adorn the dial providing optimal readability against the surrounding black.
Other notable design cues on the dial include Italic typography, which conveys an idea of speed and dynamism. Additionally, the counterweight of the central blue chrono seconds hand takes up the stylised A of Alpine. A mini blue/white/red flag recalling Alpine’s tricolour origins is spotted above the date window at 6 o’clock. Last but not least, Alpine’s signature blue used to highlight the minute track on the flange.
On the mechanical side, the BR 03-92 A522 is powered by the automatic BR-CAL.302 movement, 3 date hands. Finally, an ultra-breathable micro-perforated rubber strap ensures unrivalled comfort when worn.
