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Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding

A new line of AP watches is making waves and for good reasons. Let’s get up-close-and-personal with the new Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm in this detailed review. Today we will look at a striking new collection of AP watches that is getting many watch enthusiasts excited. Piece-by-piece we will analyze it and give it a detailed and honest review. We’ll begin with the most looked-at feature of the watch which is the dial. Let’s get started, shall we?
This model has a striking lacquered smoked grey gradient dial that has a fine radial brush sunburst pattern. The dial has an inner bezel that has a black lacquered finish. On this inner bezel, each of the 5-minute intervals uses a small white printed font for the numerals on the minutes’ track and is separated by finely printed index-style second markers. On the inner dial, the polished applied hour markers are in bold Arabic-styled font for the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. These four appliqué numerals are separated by applied and beveled index hour markers. A date aperture is located between the 4 and 5 o’clock position.

On the watch model depicted here, the hands are made of the same polished rose gold as the numerals and hour markers, as is the Audemars Piguet logo at the 12 o’clock position. The topography of the dial is something for which Audemars Piguet is famous. Their logo, for example, uses a chemical process known as galvanic growth which uses many thin layers of gold to achieve what appears to be similar to a 3-D printed logo in solid gold. The dial is covered by a unique double glare-proofed curved sapphire crystal that allows for enhanced visibility and clarity. It is arched with a specific profile shape to create a unique optical experience that combines, perspective, depth, and light.
The model featured here has a unique two-tone sandwich construction and design that combines 18kt white gold and 18kt rose gold. The case combines brushed and polished finishing on the outer and inner layers of the sandwich case. A polished and chamfered edge of the dial, brushed reverse side, curved lugs, and sides. What makes CODE 11.59 unique is the combinations of different geometric shapes together in its construction. The outer white gold layer has a round shape while the inner pink gold layer has a polygonal shape reminiscent of the case of AP’s famous and iconic Royal Oak watches. The diameter is 41mm, the thickness is 10.7mm and it has a water resistance rating of 30m/100ft. A polished and brushed winding crown can be found on the right side of the case and it is notched to allow for an enhanced grip with the AP logo engraved on the flat brushed edge of the crown.
A polished finish is used on the bevel around the chamfered edge of the case back and the screw holes on the caseback which has a flat profile with a brushed finish. The edge of the clear case back is decorated with numerous inscriptions that include an engraving of the CODE 11.59 logo, the words “by Audemars Piguet”, the serial number, and a few additional smaller symbols.
The self-winding Audemars Piguet Calibre 4302 that powers this watch is a self-winding movement with a 22-carat gold oscillating weighted winding rotor. The 32-jewel movement has 257 components has a frequency of 4Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours on a full wind. The 4302 also features an instantaneous jumping date.

The movement is beautifully finished starting with the intricately decorated, embossed, and engraved rose gold rotor. The other visible plates that appear through the transparent sapphire case back use Geneva striping with a polished beveled edge. Certain inscriptions and engravings can be found in rose gold on the AP 4302 movement including the logo, the words ‘Swiss Made’, the number of jewels.
The luxurious leather strap uses large square scale alligator leather which is stitched by hand. The strap is fastened to the watch with a brushed 18kt white gold pin buckle.
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding watch collection is filled with great promise for the future. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Automatic 41mm watch featured in this article uses a new movement, one of the 6 next-generation AP movements in fact. In this new family of watches, you will find time-only calibers as well as more complex mechanical marvels. These include high complications with the Calibre 2948 that has an openworked flying tourbillon, the Calibre 5134 which features a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts for shorter months and adds a day to the month of February every time that it’s a leap year, and last but not least, the Calibre 2953 which features a minute repeater Supersonnerie that chimes louder when it’s on the wrist rather than off the wrist.

Is this model the best of all the models that we’ve seen this year? That’s hard to say. There have been many nice limited edition watches that may come before this one. However, for the price, the available features, and the design, it’s certainly a great watch from one of the most prestigious brands and it will certainly show your great taste in watchmakers and watch syle.

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Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4

If I’m splurging on a Tag Heuer watch, smart or otherwise, I want it to feel pretty special on my wrist. Its Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 42mm costs $1,800 and doesn’t do anything an Apple Watch or Galaxy Watch can’t do. In fact, it does less, so I absolutely better feel something amazing when it’s on my wrist. Over the last 10 days, I’ve found out what it’s like to wear.
Before anything else, you should understand Tag Heuer’s new smartwatch range. There are two models, the 42mm Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 you see in our photos and that I’m reviewing here, plus a 45mm version with the same technology but a slightly different design. Following the single 45mm Connected Calibre E3, the choice of 42mm and 45mm models in the Calibre E4 range is very welcome, and slimming the case down to 13.9mm makes it more wearable. However, there’s no change in materials used — it’s stainless steel with a ceramic bezel — and there’s no titanium option for the E4 either.
I’ve yet to wear the 45mm model, but based on previous experience and wearing the 42mm version this time, I’m confident that, again, the smaller smartwatch is the one that will suit most people. The smaller 1.28-inch screen is just right, it fits under shirt cuffs, the curved sapphire crystal over it looks glorious, and the streamlined pushers and simple crown give it a seriously sophisticated look. For reference, it’s on my 6.5-inch wrist in the photos. I showed it to a friend who doesn’t like the size and weight of most current smartwatches. He liked this one a lot, and said the shape, size, and design was the most appealing he’d seen. It’s exactly the kind of reaction you want. With the right watch face, it has the classic Tag Heuer look too, but is never over the top, or worse, cheap-looking. The super-sharp, very bright 416 x 416 pixel screen definitively makes the most of the various Tag Heuer watch faces.
The 42mm Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 has a polished stainless steel case and is attached to either a steel, rubber, or leather strap. The rubber one on my review model is comfortable but can get a little sweaty, and it hasn’t got much “give” either, so I’ve had to wear it quite tightly or it tends to not sit squarely on my wrist. I love the folding clasp though, which is easily adjusted and really does look cool. It’s such a recognizable design and helps identify the smartwatch as one made by Tag Heuer. If you don’t like the strap, or want a few alternatives, Tag Heuer sells a variety of compatible straps for the Calibre E4 starting at $200.

The pushers have a very mechanical feel to them, adding a quality feel, and the rotating crown helps you navigate through the watch’s menus with speed and precision. The bezel incorporates hour markings and the Tag Heuer insignia, and because it’s set under the crystal, it doesn’t affect touchscreen use. The Connected Calibre E4 is luxurious, elegant, and expertly built, with an awareness of what makes a good smartwatch without losing sight of what makes a Tag Heuer watch desirable. But did I feel different? The Tag Heuer name has cachet it’s supremely comfortable due to its spot-on size, and the sapphire crystal is warm and inviting to touch. I love the way it looks, and I like the way it makes me feel from the moment I close that iconic clasp on the strap.
For the first half of my time with the Calibre E4, I used it with the iPhone 13 Pro. I’m pleased to say it automatically reconnected to the iPhone without any input from me, regardless of whether I had turned the watch off overnight or gone out of range. That made it easy and effortless to live with, just like the Apple Watch, and doesn’t always happen with smartwatches other than Apple’s own.

However, connected to iOS. it’s a little basic. Notifications arrive, but you can’t interact with any of them. There’s no replying to emails, liking a tweet, or sending a quick response to a message for example. However, there’s access to Google Play for apps, you can use Google Fit, and the Tag Heuer app available through Apple’s App Store is very attractive and feature-packed. However, you also need Google’s Wear OS installed on your iPhone, so it’s fairly app-intensive.
I have been satisfied with the reliability of the watch connected to iOS, but have missed the deep integration that comes with the Apple Watch and its wealth of excellent preinstalled apps and features. You don’t have an automatic handwashing timer, noise level alerts, or fall detection either, so the Calibre E4 feels quite restrained in comparison. However, the experience has definitely improved over the years, and if you’re happy with relatively basic functionality, it’s acceptable.

After using the smartwatch with an iPhone, I swapped to using it with an Android phone. Google has simplified the setup process and it takes only a few minutes for the smartwatch to get up and running. In addition to requiring Wear OS, the smartwatch also benefits from Tag Heuer’s own app being installed.
You can do a lot more on the Connected Calibre E4 when it’s connected to an Android phone. Notifications are interactive, with options to reply, delete or archive emails, like or retweet tweets, or send a canned response to messages. When connected to an iPhone, you are forced to always reach for your phone to do anything, but you can manage many tasks on the smartwatch when it’s connected to Android. It makes it more useful and convenient.

The reliability of notification arrival has been moderate regardless of which phone it was connected to, with some notifications arriving, some not, and some appearing in the notification list but without an alert. Despite having the haptic vibration alert set to its “Long” option, it’s still very easy to miss the subtle vibration the Calibre E4 makes.
The Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 uses Google Fit or Tag Heuer’s own Sports app to track your activity and workouts. For this review, I’ve concentrated on the Tag Heuer Sports app because it’s not only a lot prettier than Google Fit, but it has some cool additional features and suited my needs equally as well.

By default, Tag Heuer Sports is assigned to the upper pusher on the case, and it tracks running, walking, golf, swimming, cycling, and general fitness activities. It’s quick to start, data is presented clearly, and interacting with the app is easy due to it using the pushers on the case rather than only the touchscreen. It also has an animated workout plan suitable for people of all fitness levels to follow.
Heart rate, calories, duration, and fitness zones are all measured, and the app provides an estimated rest time on its results page. When it tracks a walk or run, GPS activates without a problem and the app shows a map, as well as adds speed and splits data. The Calibre E4 also features Tag Heuer’s extensive Golf app, which debuted on the Modular 45 Golf Edition in 2019. All the data is stored in the app and it carried over between iOS and Android even when I reset the watch, which may be helpful for those who regularly swap phones.

Tracking walks and general fitness activities alongside the Apple Watch Series 7 revealed some discrepancies in heart rate. The Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 consistently undercounts heart rate compared to the Apple Watch, with most activities recording an average of 20 beats per minute lower. Neither are medical devices, but in previous experience, most devices match the Apple Watch’s heart rate data, indicating the Calibre E4 may require further calibration through a software update. The lower heart rate impacts calorie burn too.
One other thing that may affect heart rate accuracy is the watch’s strap. It’s not really designed for quick adjustment, and getting it tight enough on your wrist to increase the heart rate monitor’s contact with your skin takes trial and error. It needs to be very tight to stay secure. The Tag Heuer Connected Calibre E4 does not measure blood oxygen or take an electrocardiogram (ECG) reading.

If you want to track casual exercise — a few workouts, everyday steps, and maybe a round of golf — the Calibre E4 is great. The lack of a truly comprehensive sensor array means it’s not really for those who want serious insight, absolute accuracy, or a massive range of different workouts to monitor. Tag Heuer should be congratulated for the Sports app though, as it looks superb on both the watch and the phone, and has performed brilliantly too.
I have had no problem with the Calibre E4’s performance. It uses the Qualcomm Snapdragon 4100+ processor with Google’s Wear OS version 2.34, and it runs smoothly throughout. Apps load quickly, payments with Google Pay are simple, and acquiring GPS when exercising takes just a few seconds. Tag Heuer promises the Connected Calibre E4 will get an update to Wear OS 3 when it’s released later this year, but has not given a time frame for it yet.

Unfortunately, there’s no ability to take calls on the smartwatch, even with Bluetooth headphones connected. I received incoming call notifications, but when you tap to accept, it tells you to take the call on your phone.

Accessing Google Play is simple and there are various apps to download and install. I used YouTube Music (which incidentally took ages to download when connected to iOS, but just moments when connected to Android), where you can download songs and playlists to listen to over headphones without your phone connected. It also worked without any problem, and even downloading music was fast.
Using the wireless charging stand supplied with the watch, it takes 30 minutes to reach about 50%, and about 70 minutes to fully charge. The stand has a glowing Tag Heuer logo on the front and the watch is secured to it with magnets that are more than strong enough to hold it in place. It’s suitably angled to be used by your bed and the watch’s display is in ambient mode by default.
Provided I turned the smartwatch off overnight — between about midnight and 8 a.m. — the battery would last two working days with one 45-minute workout tracked without GPS. With GPS active for a workout, a recommendation to enter battery-saving mode would arrive in the late evening on the second day as the battery hit 10% remaining.

I’ve had around 10 days using the Calibre E4 in total, so I haven’t been able to understand the battery life on a long-term basis, but I did notice it lasted slightly longer connected to the iPhone than it did an Android phone. Overall, the battery life isn’t outstanding, but it’s similar to most other Android smartwatches today.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 42 RUF

A collaboration between RUF and TAG Heuer just makes sense. RUF is an exclusive specialty car manufacturer celebrated for its meticulously engineered production cars. The Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer has spent well over a century producing beautiful performance-driven watches worn by racing and auto-enthusiasts. Both are artisans in the world of cars— companies obsessed with the designs, materials, and mechanics of their creations.
As part of our capsule collection with RUF, we are releasing an exclusive TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph that would look good on your wrist while behind the wheel of a CTR or with your garage-inspired fit for the gram.

For the uninitiated, chronographs are mechanical stopwatches that exist within a watch along with its timekeeping function. Only the world’s best watchmakers produce this type of complication. But, even more so, this is not TAG Heuer’s first rodeo. The Swiss brand has been attributed with creating the world’s first self-winding chronograph in 1969 with their Calibre 11. Since then, collectors have kept many of the brand’s high-end chronographs in their watch rotation.
Today’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph pulls up in a beautiful and very wearable 42mm stainless steel case. Coming in with the assist, London’s Bamford Watch Department remixed and tailored the historic TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph for our RUF collection. Looking at the dial, the chronograph includes a customized Bamford green face with yellow accents, complete with branding from RUF, TAG Heuer, and Higsnobiety.
You can find the real star of the show under the hood. The new Heuer 02 in-house movement powers the watch. Composed of 168 components and 33 jewels, the movement has an impressive 80 hours of power reserve and beats at 4 hertz or 28,000 vibrations per hour.
The timepiece sits on your wrist using a Saffiano Verde leather strap with yellow stitching that creates just the right amount of contrast. Those quick enough to cop the limited edition watch will receive the chronograph in a specialty branded box made from green frosted transparent acrylic.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is a solid pick for fans of horology and auto history and anyone looking to flesh out the rest of their watch collection.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial

TAG Heuer has really gone all-out and embraced the rainbow in recent years. We’ve seen purple-dial Monacos, orange-dial Aquaracers, green-dial Carreras, blacked-out Monacos, and more. And the latest release from the Swiss watchmaker continues the trend. Announced this morning, the latest addition to the Carrera family features a beautiful scarlet shade on the dial. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces, priced at $6,750, and it shares a similar stainless-steel case profile with the all-time classic 1960s Carrera ref. 2447; the modernized “glassbox” architecture measures a compact 39mm × 14.7mm, with an approximate lug-to-lug dimension of 46.5mm.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial movement inside is, of course, the company’s in-house Calibre Heuer 02. It’s no secret around these parts that I’m a big fan. I really believe that it’s just about the ideal configuration if you were to dream up a high-end chronograph movement today that doesn’t break the bank or push the limits too far.

It all starts with a fully integrated architecture that runs in 33 jewels, at a beat rate of 28,800 vph, with an impressive power reserve of up to 80 hours, all stored in a single barrel thanks to a longer-than-usual mainspring. The entire movement construction consists of just 168 components, a remarkably small figure compared to chronograph movements of the past. The use of fewer total parts in the movement is beneficial to the end-user as it typically translates to less wear over time and a more straightforward servicing experience. Altogether, the Calibre Heuer 02 measures an impressively compact 31mm in diameter and 6.9mm in height.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial movement also enables a more traditional three-six-nine sub-dial layout (in line with the aesthetics of vintage Heuer chronographs), rather than the off-kilter six-nine-twelve orientation seen in TAG Heuer’s previous-gen Calibre Heuer 01. The movement’s functionality is rounded out by unidirectional winding, Kif shock absorption, a vertical clutch, and hacking seconds ability. One detail I particularly appreciate is the use of a red polymer cap on the column wheel. It’s used consistently on the Calibre Heuer 02, but it works particularly well with the new Carrera “Red.”
So, why red? Heuer enthusiasts might recall the brick-red dial found on the 1970s Silverstone Chronograph ref. 110.313R, but TAG Heuer doesn’t confirm that as the new model’s direct inspiration outright (they do mention it in passing), instead highlighting the color as a Heuer/TAG Heuer signature over the years, featured in the TAG Heuer logo since 1985. Of course, red was found in the tachymeter scale of Heuer chronographs as early as the late 1950s manual-wind Auto-Graph. Watches introduced later, such as the Carrera, Regatta, Monza, Monaco, and Bundeswehr, would all end up making strategic use of the color over time, as well.
Ipersonally find this a super easy watch to appreciate. The 39mm, polished-steel “glassbox” case is always a winner (absolutely love those pump pushers!), the Calibre Heuer 02 (as we’ve already covered) is a great addition, and the dial looks as downright juicy as an apple, from TAG Heuer’s supplied imagery. There’s always the chance a dial won’t live up to its initial photos, which I’m hoping isn’t the case here.
There are a number of subtle details I particularly appreciate on the dial, as well. The original Heuer logo (sans TAG) will always be a welcome presence, and the light azurage decoration on the trio of sub-dials brings a nice touch of texture to the visual playing field. The applied and polished rectangular stick-style hour markers sit up nice and tall and make their presence known, increasing legibility in the process. I’m not sure if the use of tan, vintage-tone Super-LumiNova would have been my first choice, but it might also have simply been the most attractive option. It’s difficult to imagine a sober white shade of Super-LumiNova matching the warm red dial tone. C’est la vie.
It’s been a little over a year since I last had the opportunity to strap one of these smaller “glassbox”-style Carrera releases on my wrist, but I remember TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial like it was yesterday. This case design fits my wrist rather well; although the thickness, just under 15mm, can come across as a tad intimidating, quite a bit of that height is from the tall vintage-inspired sapphire crystal that earned the “glassbox” nickname long ago. The quintessential Carrera faceted lugs also help in that regard. I’d reckon that if you’ve found an original vintage Heuer Carrera to fit your wrist comfortably, then the 21st-century version only feels ever-so-slightly larger.
Although the first Heuer on my watch-shopping list has always been a vintage 1970s Kentucky Chronograph with a blue dial, if I was going to buy a current-generation TAG Heuer chronograph, I can’t imagine it would be anything other than one of these limited-edition 39mm Carreras. And I think this is just about the best-looking example (outside the most recent HODINKEE collaboration) to be released since the unexpected pseudo-revival of the Montreal Chronograph in the summer of 2020.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph

While it’s safe to say that Audemars Piguet’s SIHH was somewhat tumultuous, it wasn’t without its more crowd-pleasing fare. Among a handful of new Royal Oak expressions, we find what might be the most well balanced and sweet-on-wrist of the lot, the new 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph. While perhaps not a surprise offering from the house of the Royal Oak, this all-new model retains the charm of the standard Royal Oak while adding an automatic chronograph in a trio of colorways that sing on wrist.
I think that, provided you’re into the general vibe of a Royal Oak, these new 38mm chronographs are really really good. Offered in pink gold with a silver-white dial or steel in either a silver-on-grey dial or a blue-on-white/white panda dial, the three combinations offer something a bit sporty, a bit more reserved, or a bit more boss (ok, a lot more boss).

At 38mm across with screw-down pushers, 50m water resistance, and an automatic movement, the case is only 11mm thick and the whole package feels solid, thoughtful, and undeniably fun. Also available in a 41mm version that has been around for some time, while 41mm isn’t exactly large in the modern watch game, these new models err closer to the Royal Oak’s spiritual home of 39mm and, for my wrist and eyes, feel better proportioned than the larger version.
Despite dropping those three millimeters, the new 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph still employs the same movement that is used in the larger RO chronograph (and also many past models), the Selfwinding Caliber 2385. Based on the Frédéric Piguet 1185, this column-wheel chronograph movement features an integrated design, a rate of 3 Hz, and 40 hours of power reserve.
For those reading this and finding it hard to see the appeal, there is something so special, so right, about a Royal Oak on wrist. If you can, swing by an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph boutique and try on a few examples. I honestly didn’t fully understand the draw until I tried on a solid gold 5402 (now it’s a grail). And while I’m not at all a chronograph guy, the chrono display nestles so nicely into the “Grande Tapisserie” dial on these 38mm chronographs that I almost don’t mind the date at 4:30. Almost.
The grey/silver is low key, the blue on white/silver is sporty and really good, but you know your boy is all about the solid pink gold version with the white/silver dial. Priced at $23,800 in steel and $52,700 in gold, the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph is little more than a re-working of the Royal Oak proportions but it’s a strong example of less being more (even in solid gold).

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, reference 26670ST.OO.1240ST.01 (if you can keep 20-character alphanumeric reference numbers in short- and long-term memory, bless you, because I can’t) landed with maybe a little less impact than it deserved when it launched last April. There are probably several reasons why. First of all, I think a lot of us were still suffering from a bit of Royal Oak overload from the announcement of the ref. 16202 Jumbo when it launched in January, along with several other models (including a non-Jumbo flying tourbillon). Secondly, the Jumbo Tourbillon RD#3 appeared in the context of a larger world in which Bulgari more or less owns the community mindshare of ultra-thin self-winding tourbillons.
As astonishing as that might have been a couple of decades ago, there is little doubt that in 2022, it’s tough to make a splash with an ultra-thin tourbillon unless you have managed to unseat Bulgari. And not only is no brand challenging them, nobody even seems inclined to try. It’s telling, though, that to set their record, Bulgari had to unseat Audemars Piguet, and moreover, an AP watch that dropped back in 1986: The AP caliber 2870 self-winding tourbillon, which reigned as the undisputed champion of ultra-thin automatic tourbillons for over three decades until Bulgari came out with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, in 2018. While there’s no gainsaying Bulgari’s technical achievements, AP’s new Royal Oak Tourbillon does represent what is probably the single longest lineage in horology of automatic tourbillon wristwatches.
For many years, Audemars Piguet has been using basically the same tourbillon – that is, the same cage, balance, and escapement, as well as the same upper tourbillon bridge – in all of its tourbillon watches. The bridge has a distinctive, inverted “V” shape, and the cage has three arms, with a free sprung balance fitted with poising and timing screws on its outer edge. Minus the upper bridge, this is the same tourbillon used as recently as the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon 26730, launched in January of this year. It’s also the tourbillon used in the Code 11.59 collection’s automatic flying tourbillon chronograph.
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, on the other hand, uses a new configuration for its tourbillon, and moreover places a flying tourbillon, for the first time, in a Jumbo case. The RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions as the Jumbo – 39mm x 8.1mm.
To get a flying tourbillon into the Jumbo case, AP had to develop a new tourbillon movement. The Royal Oak Flying Tourbillons introduced earlier this year use the AP caliber 2950, which is 31.5mm x 6.24mm, and it has a larger case than RD#3, at 41mm x 10.6mm. The RD#3, on the other hand, uses the caliber 2968 – a smaller movement, at 29.6mm x 3.4mm, which is considerably flatter than the 2950. For comparison, Bulgari’s caliber BVL 288, used in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, is 1.95mm thick, but it’s also larger in diameter than AP’s caliber 2968, at 36.60mm which is getting into smaller pocket watch caliber territory. It’s sort of like squishing a jelly donut – you can flatten it but it’s going to spread out at the same time. This means that Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic has to be a little larger in diameter, at 41mm.
The AP caliber 2968 isn’t the flattest automatic tourbillon in the world, but you do have to bear in mind that unlike the BVL 288, it’s not a peripheral rotor caliber. Instead, it’s a full rotor movement, and it’s almost exactly the same size as the caliber 7121 used in the new 16202 Royal Oak, which is 29.6mm x 3.2mm. In fact, the caliber 2968 looks quite a lot like a re-engineered 7121, including the arrangement of the automatic winding train and the position and configuration of the mainspring barrel.
In order to fit the tourbillon cage into a Jumbo case, AP had to change several elements of the tourbillon cage from the classic version used in the caliber 2950 in the standard Royal Oak Selfwinding tourbillons. The caliber 2950 has an overcoil balance spring, while the newer caliber 2968 has a flat balance spring (most ultra-thin watches don’t have overcoil balance springs as the overcoil adds height). The balance in the 2968 has timing weights on the inside of the balance rim (in the 2950 they’re traditional weights on the outside of the rim) set flush with the rim. The balance arms have steps milled into them, which form a sort of recess that lets the balance spring sit closer to the balance – another height-saving measure.
One other notable difference is that while the 2950 uses conventional screws to fix the upper part of the tourbillon cage in place, the 2968 uses spline bolts, which usually take up less room than screws (although I’m not sure if this is the purpose here as I don’t have the dimensions for the bolts vs. the screws available). There are also cut-outs in the pillars of the tourbillon cage, which provide extra clearance for the balance rim, allowing AP to use a larger balance (this is also one of the benefits of the internal flat-rim weights). Finally, the tourbillon cage is driven via gear teeth on its outer edge. This is a so-called peripherally driven tourbillon. A traditional tourbillon carriage is driven via a pinion on the underside of the cage. Driving the cage directly from its edge produces a savings in height as well. As we’ve said, the caliber 2968 is not the world’s flattest automatic tourbillon, but at 3.4mm thick, it’s pretty damned flat for a full rotor automatic tourbillon – to get any thinner than that you have to start using either a micro-rotor or a peripheral rotor. Before Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo automatic tourbillon came along, the thinnest automatic tourbillon (after the AP 2870) was the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin Automatic 5377, whose movement has a peripheral rotor and is 3mm thick (and again, it’s very wide at 36.10mm). Looked at in context, AP’s ability to make a full rotor automatic flying tourbillon which is only 0.4mm thicker than a much wider recent record-holder with a peripheral rotor starts to look a lot more interesting.
And aesthetically? What can I tell you, it’s a Jumbo, 39mm x 8.1mm, with that lovely Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial. The only classic Jumbo element missing from the RD#3 Jumbo Tourbillon is the AP logo at six o’clock, but it seems a reasonable thing to lose if you’re going to have an open dial flying tourbillon. If you like the Jumbo, you’re probably going to like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, unless the idea of an open dial flying tourbillon is just not your brand of vodka. Comparing ultra-thin automatic tourbillons can be a little tricky – it helps to know the history of the complication and it also helps to understand that a full rotor movement compared to a peripheral rotor movement is fair on one hand, but on the other hand it’s also a little bit of an apples-to-oranges comparison. Seen from that perspective, RD#3 is a beautiful, very well-thought-out piece of contemporary watchmaking.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

There are few watches more classic than the original 1972 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. That slim, stainless steel sport watch’s most direct modern descendent is the so-called “Jumbo” Royal Oak, which has a 39mm case coming in at just 8.1mm thick. The watch you see here shares those dimensions – and looks almost exactly the same at first glance – but is actually crafted from a mix of titanium and platinum. The watch’s case and the large bracelet sections are brushed titanium, while the bezel and smaller bracelet links are polished platinum. The result is a subtle contrast between the tones and finishes of the white metals, creating a watch that offers much more than it first appears to.
This isn’t the first time Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has used these two metals together. In fact, last year the brand offered up two different watches in the combination, the Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin and the Royal Oak Chronograph. I wrote fondly of those back then, and I stand by my assessment. The “two-tone” combo works really well, especially with the blue dial chosen for this latest watch, which appears to have a slightly different effect than that of the standard Jumbo. Creating meaningful variations on a classic without disrupting the qualities that make it special in the first place is difficult, but Audemars Piguet Royal Oak clearly knows what they’re doing.
I’m into this watch. Like, really into this watch. From a distance, it would be possible for it to be mistaken for a completely ordinary Royal Oak, or, at best, a standard steel Jumbo. Strangers would have no idea that you’re actually sporting a rather unusual watch in a rarely seen combination of utilitarian and precious metals. It’s an everyday watch, but a very special everyday watch.

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HUBLOT Summer Editions, Ibiza, Capri and St.Tropez Boutiques

To celebrate this summer season, Hublot has created three special edition timepieces dedicated to its Ibiza, Capri and St.Tropez boutiques.

These Mediterranean destinations are known for their beautiful beaches and vibrant culture. The new Hublot summer limited editions take inspiration from the blues of summertime.

Hublot St-Tropez Big Bang Unico St-Tropez Boutique
The turquoise blue seas and sky of this seaside citadel are reflected in a limited edition of 30 pieces which echo the colours of Tahiti and Pampelonne beach.
Set between the Place des Lices and the Port de St-Tropez since 2017, the Hublot boutique is just a short hop from the iconic ochre and sienna bell tower which overlooks the port and dominates the skyline. The silhouette is featured on the sapphire of the Big Bang Unico St-Tropez Boutique’s case back.
The UNICO V2 manufacture movement offers a power reserve of 72 hours. The calibre HUB1280 boasts a slimmer design, restyled architecture, easier assembly and improved visibility and functionality. The ceramic bezel, the lined rubber strap, the indices, numerals and hands are all turquoise blue, contrasting with the microblasted black ceramic case.

Hublot Ibiza Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Ceramic Blue Ibiza Boutique
With its pop-up boutique open throughout the summer, Hublot celebrates the bohemian festive spirit of Ibiza with a limited edition of 50 pieces in colours which echo the island’s white walls and the deep blue of the horizon from Cala Conta, the contrasting shades underneath the boats moored at Cala Saladeta and the seabed at Cala Xarraca.
To celebrate summer, and its Ibiza boutique, Hublot welcomes its favourite material – coloured ceramic – to a magnetic blue chronograph: the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Ceramic Blue Ibiza Boutique. 45 mm in diameter, with a deep blue ceramic bezel and case, HUB1155 self-winding chronograph movement and a power reserve of 42 hours, this piece is awash with the island’s vibrant blues, from its deep seas to its night skies.
Its blue alligator strap is set off by white stitching and a white stripe, providing as striking a contrast to the titanium adorning the crown, pushers and H-shaped screws. On the back of the watch, the sapphire crystal features “Hublot Ibiza”.

Hublot Capri Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Ceramic Capri Boutique
For its Capri Boutique, Hublot has created a limited edition Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Ceramic. Limited to 50 pieces, this watch is inspired by the turquoise waters of Capri’s Grotta Azzurra and the contrast with the dark grey of the grotto.
The Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Ceramic Capri Boutique has a power reserve of 42 hours. 45 mm in diameter, and fitted with a turquoise blue lined rubber strap, this watch is water resistant to 50 metres.

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TAG Heuer Targa Florio Juan Manuel Fangio

Tag Heuer reference CX2113 This watch was a limited edition from around 2001/2002, produced in a series of 1957 pieces. Note the signature of Fangio under the logo below the 12.

I am looking for this watch on behalf of a client, must be complete: Box and papers, in good condition.
Preferably within EU in order to avoid import duties and taxes, but I am always willing to listen to suggestions from other parts of the globe.

Lots of references available. Discretion guaranteed. No discussion about the history of motor racing is complete without mention of Juan Manuel Fangio, the fabled Argentinian who won the Formula One World Driver’s Championship no fewer than five times during the 1950s, setting a record that stood for 47 years before finally being broken by Michael Schumacher in 2003.

Sixty years after the 1957 victory, the new TAG Heuer Formula One Fangio Limited Edition marks the legacy of the celebrated sportsman and long-time inspiration of Jack Heuer.
With its heritage firmly cemented in motorsport, TAG Heuer Replica commemorates this milestone in racing history with an exceptional new watch that celebrates Fangio‘s achievements – a Formula 1 chronograph featuring a racing-stripe in Argentinian colours on the dial and Fangio’s distinctive signature on the back of the 43mm case.

The watch was unveiled at the London showroom of renowned historic car dealer and restorer J.D. Classics in the presence of a remarkable piece of Fangio memorabilia – a 1952 Jaguar C-Type that he bought new after spotting it on the Jaguar stand at that year’s Belgian Motor Show.

Also on display were other covetable classic cars that evoked the golden era of which Fangio was the star.

Christian Horner OBE, team principal of Red Bull Racing Formula One Team, was in attendance at the launch event to participate in a question and answer session led by broadcaster and journalist James Allen on the motivation of motor racing and the personalities that shaped the sport.

Fangio, who became a professional racing driver relatively late in life after spells as a footballer, motor mechanic and soldier, made his competition debut in 1938 behind the wheel of a Ford V8 in the TurismoCarretera.

He soon became a master of South America’s notorious endurance events – including the notorious Carrera Panamericana in Mexico, which would inspire Jack Heuer years later to design the Carrera range – bringing him private funding to race a Maserati in Europe. His sensationally fast driving quickly won him his first Formula One championship in 1951. In 1953, Fangio won again the race. The legends says he was wearing a Heuer watch on his wrist. Fangio captured his fourth title with Ferrari in 1956 and his fifth the following year with Maserati, before retiring in 1958 with 24 World Championship Grand Prix wins under his belt from 52 starts – still the highest percentage in F1 history.
TAG Heuer’s motto ‘Don’t Crack Under Pressure’ applies perfectly to friend-of-the- brand Fangio, which is why the celebrated Swiss watch maker – famed for its century-long links with motor sport – first honored him in 2001 with a 200-piece limited edition ‘Targa Florio’ chronograph that was dedicated to the driver and named after the famous Sicilian road race which he contested in 1953 and 1955, finishing third and second respectively.

Further models in tribute to Fangio were released by Replica TAG Heuer in 2007 and 2011: a 4,000-piece edition to mark the 50th anniversary of Fangio’s final World Championship win, followed by a 300-piece edition of the Formula 1 to commemorate the centenary of the driver’s birth.

Some of the sale proceeds of these highly collectable Fangio editions have gone to the Museo Juan Manuel Fangio, which was opened in his home town of Balcarce in 1986 nine years before he died.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin

As part of a recently launched collection of green-themed versions of some of the brand’s most beloved watches, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin has announced the first-ever platinum Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a green sunburst dial. That’s right: Those who were simply green with envy towards anyone who managed to snag 2019’s “salmon adjacent” 152020BC can now commemorate the feeling with a truly striking smoked green dial. As the modern expression of the original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin format, the 15202 is a hugely popular reference, and this will undoubtedly be a hot-ticket item for anyone with their eyes on the current scene surrounding Audemars Piguet.
With 39mm of platinum case matched by a full platinum bracelet and a display caseback, this is a core Royal Oak offering with a twist. While AP has never shied away from colorful dials, especially when it comes to the Royal Oak, the green feels a bit more middle of the road than some of the more bold offerings we’ve seen in the past, and I think that makes a lot of sense for the 15202. In many ways, this format – without chronograph, tourbillon, or otherwise – is a shorthand for Audemars Piguet success, and it forms the roots of how many people come to know about the brand.
Judging by the images (though we hope to go hands-on soon enough), this 15202PT sports a bright but not overly shiny sunburst finish that is enhanced by a smoked gradient execution that fades to a much darker tone at the dial’s edge. Combined with bright and luminous white-gold markers and hands (along with no seconds hand), the 5202PT.OO.1240PT.01 is gorgeous, and the dial fade does a good job of matching with the visual weight of the date display, which appears to fade along with the shimmering green coloring.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin movement inside should surprise almost no one – AP’s lovely calibre 2121. Fitted with a solid gold winding mass and tracking hours, minutes, and the date, this movement has long been linked with the Royal Oak, and it’s always a treat to get a chance to peer through that display caseback to catch a glimpse of Audemars Piguet’s super thin (only 3.05mm!) automatic movement.

Still dubbed the “Extra-Thin” at a very svelte 8.1mm thick, I doubt that the relative slim-ness will mean you don’t notice this chunk of platinum on your wrist, even without the razzle-dazzle of that emerald green dial. Currently, Audemars Piguet is listing the price as “available upon request,” but regardless of that number, we all know they will be hard to get (update: price below). As new watch season looms on the horizon, AP has the jump start, and the grass is certainly looking green in Le Brassus today.