Shattering the prevailing opinion that women just want a pretty dial and couldn’t care less about mechanical complications, Bovet presents a timepiece that seduces on the mechanical and aesthetic fronts – and how! Complicated yet feminine, poetic but not affected, Bovet’s red gold version of the Bovet Dimier Récital 11 Miss Alexandra puts on a blue-hued show of the phases of the moon. Equipped with a precision moon phase mechanism developed by Bovet, and displaying some of the most refined artistic finishes in watchmaking, this watch is a wearable piece of horological art.Bought by Pascal Raffy in 2006 with a quest to convert the historic brand into a temple of decorative arts and Haute Horlogerie, Bovet is very much a niche brand. Like Jaquet Droz, Edouard Bovet focused on the Chinese market and by 1822 was supplying the Imperial Court with richly enamelled pocket watches set with pearls and precious stones. Such was the admiration and success of Bovet in China that the founder’s surname became synonymous with the word ‘watch’ Bo Wei in Chinese. Many of Bovet’s sumptuously decorated pocket watches and richly engraved movements are museum pieces and the high degree of ornamentation led Edouard Bovet to create the first transparent casebacks.Much to the delight of collectors, about a third of the pieces are one-off treasures and production is limited to around 2,000 watches a year. Because of its high level of vertical integration – with its own movement and dial manufactures – Bovet is currently able to craft about 85% of its calibres in-house. The Dimier collection, to which the Récital 11 Miss Alexandra belongs, is conceived and constructed entirely in-house at Bovet’s Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale DIMIER 1738. Characterised by a crown at 3 o’clock (as opposed to the majority of Bovet’s collections with crowns at 12 o’clock) the Dimier collection is populated by tourbillons, jumping hours, triple time zones all the way up to the spectacular Récital 22 Grand Récital, a 9-day flying tourbillon, tellurium-orrery and retrograde perpetual calendar.The Récital 11 we are reviewing follows in the footsteps of the 2013 Récital 9, a 7-day tourbillon and moon phase model that marked the brand’s first oval-shaped watch case for women. Like Breguet’s royal Reine de Naples timepiece, the Récital 11 is housed in an egg-shaped case that, in my opinion, is one of the most flattering and feminine of shapes. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the watch is large, but who would want anything smaller when there are so many beautiful details to admire?Crafted in warm 18k red gold, the oval case is set with 58 round-cut diamonds on the bezel and briolette diamond in the crown. Winding the watch with the large fluted crown is a real pleasure. Instead of the traditional corrector on the caseband to adjust the moon phase complication, Bovet has integrated the corrector directly into the crown (the diamond, in this case) avoiding problems of water-resistance and fiddly corrector tools, as well as respecting the pure and polished contours of the case.This is where things get really interesting. Packed with details, the dial is a showcase of Bovet’s refined artisanal and artistic handiwork. Starting with the protagonist, the moon is rendered with a high degree of realism and the exact cartography of our celestial neighbour has been engraved on a mirror-polished steel plate. The craters of the moon are filled with a luminescent substance and the sky surrounding the moon is engraved on a blue PVD-treated nickel plate that appears to be twinkling with stars. Unlike traditional moon phase functions with two moons on a moving disc, Bovet uses two pallets (like lollipops) that move over the fixed Moon. Fitted with a precision moon phase module, entirely developed and manufactured by DIMIER 1738, it will only require a one-day correction every 122 years.As you can see, blue is the thematic colour of the dial but is used in different shades to denote different functions. The background sky and pallets that hide and reveal the Moon are picked out in an almost electric metallic blue, hand-chiselled with a bris de verre (shattered glass) motif. Forming an elegant figure eight, a bit like Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde family, the lower half of the dial features the hours and minutes disc in a much darker, almost midnight-blue tonality. Carved from translucent blue aventurine glass with ten diamond hour markers, the hours and minutes dial recreates a sparkling, star-studded night sky. But there is another detail that cannot be overlooked. The hands, with their squiggly shape and rounded arrow tips, perform a romantic gesture every hour. When the minutes hand rests on top of the hours hand, the combined shape forms a heart!Behind the time and moon phase functions is a richly hand-chiselled background with a shooting star on the left (crowned with a diamond) and a view of the hand-chamfered and polished steel levers and jumper spring of the moon phase corrector on the right. Winding the watch with the large gold fluted crown is a real pleasure, but watching the mechanics responsible for resetting the moon phases jump into action is a true spectacle.The reverse side of the watch offers more aesthetic pleasures and reveals the mechanical self-winding movement – calibre 11DA16-MP – with its generous 72-hour power reserve. Paying homage to the founder’s predilection for hand-engraving his movements with floral motifs, the 22k gold rotor displays the classic Fleurisanne engraving for which the House is famous. Naturally, the blue motif of the dial is carried over to the movement with the inclusion of blued steel screws.As you can tell, I am bewitched by this timepiece. I love the generous case size, the realistic rendering of the Moon and the celestial blues, but what really gets me going and makes me extremely happy is that some brands are finally listening to women who enjoy complications, who enjoy mechanical wonders but still insist on beautiful, feminine objects.The Dimier Récital 11 Miss Alexandra is also available in white gold and with baguette-cut diamonds. It can also be ordered without diamonds and with a hand-chiselled case to match the decoration of the movement. Presented on a blue alligator strap, the 18k red gold model with diamonds is attached to the wrist with an 18k red gold ardillon buckle and retails Bovet Dimier Récital 11 Moon Phase
Bovet Dimier Récital 9
If you are reading this article on the day of its release then it is Valentine’s Day. Lucky you (and lucky Bovet)! For me, Valentine’s Day is a charming occasion when men are expected to be unpredictable, extra-thoughtful, and gift-bearing. But it can’t be just any gift, it needs to be one that stretches our resources to a point where we can show her that we love her THAT much. Basically we need to hire a consultant on how NOT to be ourselves and take out a loan. If you really want to stretch all that to the max, you can invest in the close-to-$200,000 Bovet Miss Alexandra jewelry tourbillon timepiece. She will hopefully be impressed (because we can never predict that can we?). In the end it is worth it when they smile and gush with positivity.
Depending on your tastes of course, this is the first true women’s Bovet Dimier Recital collection watch. Its formal name is the Bovet Recital 9 Tourbillon Miss Alexandra 7-Day Tourbillon with Moon Phase… in the Dimier case with a Dimier movement. Boy is it nice. That egg-shaped case in precious metal with optional diamonds and skeletonized and decorated movement is stunning. Kind of makes you wish it was a men’s piece. No, Bovet has enough of those for the guys already.At 37.2mm wide and 41mm tall it isn’t a petite piece, but the overall look and feel of the watch are of course inherently feminine. That goes for the graceful curves and “heart” hands. As you can see, the shape of the hands makes it so that several time a day they form a heart. It happens most nicely at about 11pm or 11am, and you know what that means? “Love time…” because the watch said you have to. Thankfully that is the extent of the hearts on the watch. Bovet implemented them in a tasteful and subtle way as they know nothing makes a high-end watch more cheesy that making hearts out of too many precious materials.
The Recital 9 Miss Alexandra will come in either an 18k red or white gold case – with a range of diamond options, or no diamonds at all. Actually, no matter what, there will be a diamond as the endstone on the tourbillon bridge. The version I got to check out was in red gold with lots of smaller round-cut diamonds, but you can get one with larger baguette-cut stones in the bezel. Don’t forget that rather sizeable diamond cabochon in the crown.For me, the Bovet Recital 9 is all about the movement. I simply love these delicately skeletonized calibres with their timeless cut lines. Inside Miss Alexandra is an in-house made Dimier caliber 15BM01-MP manually wound movement with a seven day power reserve. Note that right above the large “realistic” moon phase indicator is a useful power reserve indicator. It is easy to miss but nice to know it is there.
The moon phase moon disc doesn’t move on this watch, but rather a double-circle disc in sparkly blue moves over the moon to cover it as a way of representing the moon phases. The Bovet logo applied to the rear of the sapphire crystal is a tasteful touch and looks oh so nice over the “sky” blue area around the moon. Below you will see the tourbillon anchored only by the bridge assembly. What I like about this is how well it allows you to inspect the movement and see how the tourbillon operates. Her inner watch nerd (which she undoubtedly has if you are getting her this watch, or if she is getting it herself) will come to appreciate this as well. And if she doesn’t, maybe you’ll take a stab at wearing it? Come on, how far will you go to wear a rather exclusive high-end tourbillon watch?
The decoration style of the movement is interesting. It consists of small cuts to the bridges and plates which almost create the illusion of more gems. The same decor is applied to the blue area around the moonphase – only that area has been PVD coated blue. The result is a fantastic sparkle and adds a classy look to the movement. If you want to read another review of a Bovet Recital watch you can check out the aBlogtoWatch Recital 0 watch review here. While she’ll probably still love you if you don’t get her one of these for this (or future) Valentine’s Days, you might still want to show her. What I most like about Bovet is that they operate in a mindset that royalty and aristocracy are still plentiful and more than present. The Recital 9 Tourbillon Miss Alexandra watch will be limited to 50 pieces in 18k white gold and 50 pieces in 18k red gold.
Bovet Dimier Récital 20 Astérium
Bovet creates some of the most masterfully crafted and highly complicated timepieces out there. Last year, in 2016, they released the Bovet Récital 18 Shooting Star watch – a limited, otherworldly timepiece that we looked at hands-on here. Alongside the recently announced Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date release, Bovet is continuing the tradition of their Récital models with the Bovet Récital 20 Astérium watch which includes a flying tourbillon with a night sky chart, perpetual calendar, and a celestial array of astronomical functions, all with a 10-day power reserve. It’s an absolutely breathtaking creation that retains Bovet’s reputation for making rather grandiose pieces.Bovet knows how to capture the hearts of those fascinated by wonderfully complicated and intricate timepieces that aim to be a symphony on the wrist. With so much going on, it’s a safe bet that the translucent blue sapphire dome stands out first. It has been fully laser-engraved with a map of the stars and constellations visible from Earth before being filled in with Super-LumiNova. This touch alone is indication enough that Bovet set out to create something that goes far beyond what most would expect from a wristwatch. With such a majestic set of functions, design aesthetic, and extreme attention to detail, we can agree that at this point it actually belongs to the ranks of high-end mechanical art.The Bovet Récital 20 Astérium watch is 46mm in diameter and built around the concept of the sidereal year, which follows the actual orbital period of the Earth around the Sun – 365.25 days. It’s a calendar function that is actually visible from the case-back, where we find a single central hand that performs a complete rotation every 365.25 days. Additionally, as we move from the outer edge at the case-back bezel, we find the annual calendar (dates and months), signs of the zodiac with corresponding constellations, and indications for the seasons, solstices, and equinoxes. At this point, it’s easy to see how one could simply revel in sheer admiration for such dedication and attention to detail. But as is typical with Bovet’s designs, there’s always more.Moving to the dial-side of things, the Bovet Récital 20 Astérium manages to pack in two hemispheric indicators and a hemispheric precision moon phase indicator with an integrated equation of time complication. At the lower right-hand portion of the night sky, we find a 10-day power reserve indicator that shares a spot with the retrograde minutes hand. Now, the hour hand itself manages to take care of three functions. As it moves along the dedicated 24-hour dial, it also points north and carries the elliptical window characteristic of the night sky in addition to indicating the time.To top it off, we get a stunning view of the patented double face flying tourbillon, which gives us a glimpse at what’s powering it all. The movement is the 17DM02-SKY – a hand-wound caliber that operates at a frequency of 18,000vph. The tourbillon itself is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, which Bovet pairs with carefully selected balance springs. It appears to be a serious dedication to chronometry along with everything we’ve come to expect from Bovet and more. The Bovet Récital 20 Astérium will be made in either red gold, white gold, or platinum case configurations which can be customized as Bovet has historically offered. It comes on an alligator leather strap fitted with an 18K red or white gold ardillon buckle.Bovet concerns themselves with creating works of horological art for collectors who can appreciate and afford the product of their craft. The Bovet Récital 20 Astérium takes its rightful place within the Récital range and it will be a visual horological treat to hopefully share in hands-on photos soon. The Bovet Récital 20 Astérium
Bovet Dimier Récital 16
Iam never shy about taking an opportunity to cover one of Bovet‘s exciting Recital collection timepieces and here is a look at the new for 2014 Bovet Recital 16. In the video below, you’ll see a bit of the Bovet Recital 16 as well as the other new Recital watches for the year. Recital watches exist in the Bovet Dimier collection, which is most notably marked by their lack of a “ribbon” crown protector (and crown) at 12 o’clock. Therefore, in addition to being often rather complex, the Bovet Dimier watches tend to have more traditional cases with crowns at 3 o’clock.
I believe that the official name for the Recital 16 is the Bovet Recital 16 Collection Dimier 7-Day Tourbillon With Triple Time Zone. It contains a mechanical movement known as the “Calibre Rising Star II,” and offers the main time plus the time in two other cities. For lovers of the complex and the bold, the Bovet Recital 16 is going to be a delight, even if it doesn’t have the elegant grace some aficionados seek out.Speaking of elegance and grace, there are other Bovet watches for that. Recital timepieces are often about technical excellence and pushing the design envelope. I also like that Bovet sort of exists out side of the rest of the watch making world. They produce their own movements, they produce a lot of their own parts for the cases and dials, they produce parts for other brands, and their design ethos is refreshingly unconcerned with what other luxury watch brands are doing.
For more about what the Bovet brand is all about, I feel it useful to point to my interview of Bovet owner Mr. Pascal Raffy. There are really not that many luxury executives worth listening to at length, but Mr. Raffy is one of the exceptions. Perhaps because he actually has interesting and thought provoking things to say not only about luxury itself, but also in regard to the process of creating luxury goods. With that said, let’s explore the Bovet Recital 16 a bit more.There are two versions of the Bovet Recital 16 that you can see in this article. One model is in 18k red gold and the other is in 18k white gold. This latter model has a few other decorative elements that include mother-of-pearl dials for the secondary and tertiary time zones, as well as a ring of baguette-cut diamonds around the bezel. While these aren’t traditionally particularly masculine decorative features, they actually work pretty well in the Bovet Recital 16 and don’t take away from the “men’s watch” appeal of the piece.At 46mm wide and relatively thick, there is perhaps little that can take away from the masculinity of the Bovet Recital 16. Even with the large size, the curved lugs ensure a very pleasant fit on the wrist, that never feels loose or obnoxiously large. 46mm wide is one of those sizes that can make a watch look much too large on most wrists, or absolutely appropriate, depending on the shape of the case. Note the rounded blue sapphire crystal as the cabochon in the crown (most commonly seen in Cartier watches).
Perhaps the most interesting thing to do with the Bovet Recital 16 is adjust the time. Typically such a basic act isn’t all that interesting, but here you get the added delight of seeing all three of the time dials moving at the same time. It is a fun view despite being, of course, rather simple. With that said, it is clear that you can adjust all of the time zones at the same time, which will all have synchronized minute hands. That means this isn’t the type of watch that allows each of the different times to be totally independently set. Having said that, you’ll find that on a travel watch, that isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
What makes the other two time zones interesting isn’t just that they are there, but that they each have their own day/night (AM/PM) indicator, as well as reference city indicator. The former function is displayed in the middle of the subsidiary dials as a disc displaying the sun or stars moving around slowly throughout the day. This is a pretty useful feature, as the other time zones are in a 12 hour format – making it difficult to know whether it is day or night in those places.Pushers on the side of the case are used to adjust the second and third time zone indicator faces on the dial. The good news is that the Bovet Recital 16 case doesn’t have a lot of extra crowns on it, but the bad news is that you’ll need a small tool to adjust the watch as your naked fingers will not be able to do it. Bovet isn’t the only brand to do that, and I wonder how owners feel when it comes time to adjust their watches. Actually, to be fair, most watch makers supply little pusher tools to adjust the watch which will not scratch the case. Then again, how many owners carry these small tools around with them? I’ve always thought it would be good to have a small tool in the strap buckle if a watch relies upon inset pushers to make adjustments to the movement.
The Calibre Rising Star II is a rather complex manually wound movement that also contains a tourbillon and 7 days of power reserve. What makes it the most interesting to me isn’t what it does, but more how it looks. The Bovet Recital 16 has no real dial, but makes the most out of having a totally open movement with various dials and pieces of information on it. Let’s be honest, despite the many items on the dial, hands, and indicators, the Bovet Recital 16 is rather legible for what it is. There is even lume on the hands for darkness reading.A question you probably shouldn’t ask is “who needs to know just three time zones?” I am sure enough people do and hopefully they will find Bovet. Thankfully, the complex dial is also laid out more-or-less symmetrically – which adds a few attraction points to the watch. The top of the watch dial contains a power reserve indicator for the movement indicating the full seven days, while the lower part of the dial has the tourbillon on its long and thin bridges. Don’t miss the dark gray finishing of the movement bridges which add just a bit more visual interest.
Bovet didn’t design the Bovet Recital 16 for all luxury consumers able to afford its rather outstanding price. It is the shining example of a niche model for a select group of people that nevertheless aims to garner enough “horological street cred” to ride with the bigger boys. Price for the Bovet Dimier Recital 16 watch
Bovet Dimier Récital 15
Each released during the same year, the Bovet Dimier Recital 15 replica is the slightly larger brother of the Bovet Dimier Recital 12 watch (hands-on here). If you check out the previous article, you’ll recall that I really liked the Recital 12 for a range of reasons. It is not only the first Recital family watch that is good for daily wear, but it is also the the thinnest, and houses a new in-house made Bovet movement. The Bovet Recital 15 uses the same “Calibre Virtuoso II” base mechanical movement, but adds retrograde minute and jumping hour complications to the mix.
“Dimier” is a sub-family of watches in the larger Bovet watch brand. They are most notably known for having more “standard” watch cases with traditional lugs, and without the “ribbon crown” of many other Bovet watches, such as those in the Amadeo collection. It seems like almost all Bovet Dimier watches are in the Recital family, which continues to expand quickly, with at least one or more new models each year.At a glance, the Bovet Recital 12 and Recital 15 watch models are very similar. The case is the same 42mm wide style, though the Bovet Recital 15 is a bit thicker, due to the extra complication of the jumping hour and retrograde minute functions. In truth, I think it was very strange from a marketing perspective for Bovet to release both of the watches during the same year, and for the numbers in their names to also be so far apart. Though, that is sort of how Bovet works, being independently owned and operated. So they can do whatever they want.
If you are wondering what the Bovet Recital 13 and 14 watches are, you can keep wondering. I believe Bovet informed me that there will never be a Recital 13 because of many people’s belief that 13 is an unlucky number, and the Bovet Recital 14, to my knowledge, has not yet been released… even though there is a Recital 15 and Bovet Recital 16 (hands-on here). Given the work put into the new base movement in the Recital 12 and 15, I believe that it is likely Bovet will return to this movement in the future with additional variations.While the Recital 12 watch is 9.1mm thick, the Bovet Recital 15 is 12.8mm thick. That isn’t “very thick” by most standards, but it doesn’t have the svelte feeling of the Recital 12 on the wrist. I also don’t know if the Bovet Recital 15 has the option of coming with an 18k gold bracelet (like the Recital 12 does) in addition to the black alligator strap. The dial combines both traditional elements with the beautiful aesthetic of an open face showing off the movement. The design is pretty elegant and feels like it was meant to be looked at, in contrast to some open-face dials that look like you caught a mechanical watch movement in its underwear. In other words, I have to say that both the Recital 12 and Bovet Recital 15 watches are very nice to look at. Of course, given Bovet’s nature, you can also get this watch with a diamond-set bezel.While the Recital 12 and Recital 15 are both based on the same movement base, they are quite different in how they are laid out and the Bovet Recital 15 makes a case for itself with the almost three extra millimeters of thickness. One of the most interesting features is the “double seconde coaxiale” system. The subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock goes right through to the back of the movement, and there are double seconds hands. However, the two seconds hands are not directly connected by a single axle. That would imply that if the seconds hand is running clockwise on the front of the dial, it would run counter-clockwise on the rear of the dial. Instead, there is special gearing in the movement to ensure that the seconds hand is running clockwise on both sides of the dial. Not super functional, but still rather cool, and a nice detail.Whereas the Recital 12 watch has a power reserve indicator on the dial, the Bovet Recital 15 has a power reserve indicator on the rear of the watch. In fact, the caseback of the Bovet Recital 15 is much more impressive looking than that of the more simple Recital 12 caseback. In fact, if you look at them both, the funny thing is that the dial side of the Recital 12 is actually the caseback side of the Recital 15 (though without a time display). It shows you how flexible the Virtuoso II Calibre is. Each of the watches should have the same seven days of power reserve and are manually wound, operating at 21,600 bph (3Hz).
The indicator for the time on the Bovet Dimier Recital 15 is appealing because it has a nicely functioning retrograde minutes and instant-jumping hour indicator. While this is clearly a non-traditional means of indicating the time, it is nevertheless still very legible. To the far right is a window that displays the current hour, and to its left is a 0 – 60 scale meant to indicate the minutes. A retrograde hand is one that jumps back to its starting position when it gets to the end of a scale. Retrograde hands are interesting and fun to use but are generally less reliable than standard hands because they require increased maintenance over the years and can sometimes be set in only one direction.Bovet offers the Dimier collection Recital 15 watch in a few versions that include case in 18k white or red gold. The dials on the face can be in white or the pictured black as well. Also, as I said, the bezel can be polished gold or decorated with Baguette-cut diamonds. A fascinating and attractive timepiece, the Bovet Recital 15 might not have the simple appeal of the Recital 12, but satisfactorily adds some complication on the same interesting base movement for a distinct experience – though I still feel that it was odd for Bovet to release both models during the same year. Perhaps it was just their way of showing some of the variety possible in the Virtuoso II movement.
Replica Bovet Recital 12 Watch
ovet is a brand I always like to watch carefully because they tend to come up with truly interesting new products and often in a quirky way. What do I mean by quirky? Well let’s take their high-end Dimier Recital collection. This year they released a total of four new Recital watches (often it is maybe just one). Those being the Recital 11, 12, 15, and 16. Why no 13 and 14? Well because according to Bovet those are unlucky numbers in one culture or another. Ok then… So, this is the Recital 12 and it uses a new movement concept. It also happens to be the thinnest Recital watch, being 9.10mm thick. Not “ultra-thin” but still really thin given most Bovet Dimier collection watches.It also has an impressively long and regal sounding name that I happen to be quite amused by. For the most part I will just call this watch the “Recital 12,” but its full name is the “Bovet Récital 12
‘Monsieur DIMIER’ Calibre Virtuoso II Spécialité Horlogère Dimier 1738.” Impressive sounding right? What do they mean by “Monsieur Dimier” exactly? Not really sure. A lot of Bovet design language exists on a plane of existence that I have not yet ascended to. Perhaps someday I will. Until then, I will respect that there are forces at play larger than myself which are both designing and giving titles to these timepieces.The watch itself is a relatively handsome creation that emphasizes mechanical interest as well as Bovet’s more eccentric take on elegance. Complex features are minimized in favor of a more simple movement that is nonetheless pleasant to look at with welcome convenience features. The movement is the Calibre Virtuoso II (13.75-70-A1) and it is a new base movement that does something interesting. The seconds hand pin goes straight through the movement giving it the ability to have a seconds hand on both sides of the dial or offering a view of the seconds hand mechanism from both sides of the movement. In terms of thickness the Virtuoso II is 3.9mm thick. The Recital 13 watch also uses this same base calibre for a similar effect.
In the Bovet Recital 12 you can see the seconds hand gear assembly spinning through the rear of the movement. On the dial side the seconds hand has only a partial distinct dial with numerals, but it does have a three-sided blued steel hand so that you can always track the seconds properly. This is part of a trio of circular elements which include a view of the gear train to bottom and above, a view of the balance wheel. Clearly the design of the movement was for it to be viewed and its detailing and symmetry is certainly enjoyable to observe.To the right of the seconds counter is the off-center dial for the hours and minutes. Against a black dial it is simple and legible with Arabic numerals and lume for darkness viewing. The dial for the time is available both with a black lacquered face as well as a white one. The dial is pleasantly classic and actually incredibly simple for Bovet standards. Though given its smaller sizes this helps legibility quite a bit.Above the hour and minute dial is a power reserve dial. The Virtuoso II is a manually wound movement, but one of the good ones. That is because it not only has a power reserve indicator, but a power reserve of seven days. That week’s worth of power reserve is based on the movement operating at a frequency of 21,600 bph. Given the overall simplicity I would say that the movement as well as the Recital 12 overall have a nice mix of features and aesthetic design choices.At 42mm wide the Recital 12 actually is small given most other Recital pieces, but it wears nicely on the wrist and is very comfortable given the shape of the case as well as the relatively thin profile of the case. The highly polished gold case certainly has a high-end feel to it, while Bovet offers the Recital 12 both in 18k white or rose gold. There is also an option to outfit it with a fully baguette-diamond studded bezel (it is a Bovet after all).I was quite happy with the Bovet Recital 12 actually as a dress watch. It incorporates elements of an elegant watch as a view into the movement for lovers of horological mechanics. It is also undoubtedly a Bovet in style and composure. At this price range there is a lot of competition, but few watches can quite match the rich personality that the Bovet brand has built around it. The Bovet Recital 12 watch will be limited to 150 pieces per gold color
Bovet Récital 12 Monsieur Dimier
Through the use of a reverse hand-fitting, the dial of the new Bovet Récital 12 “Monsieur Dimier” reveals many details of the manufacture Dimier movement, including the balance and the gear-train with their symmetrical bridges.The surfaces of the bridges present circular Côtes de Genève decorations, centred on the axis of the seconds-hand, which lead the eye to the key functions of the calibre.
The time is displayed in the off-centre dial at 3 o’clock with the triple seconds-hand at 9 o’clock.Positioned symmetrically, two openings have been cut out in the surface of the barrel’s and power reserve’s bridge. The first houses a power-reserve indicator. The second reveals a segment of the single barrel, which guarantees a seven day power reserve.
The Dimier hand-wound movement, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, is housed in a 42mm diameter case with an overall thickness of 9.1mm.For the off-centre hours and minutes dial and the 120° segment of the seconds indicator, Bovet used precious lacquered dials with contrasting numerals which facilitate the readability.
The Bovet Récital 12 will be available in 18-carat red or white gold, in limited editions of 100 pieces per gold colour.The dial of the new Bovet Récital 12 “Monsieur Dimier” reveals many details of the manufacture Dimier movement, including the balance and the gear-train with their symmetrical bridges. The Bovet Récital 12 will be available in 18-carat red or white gold.Bovet, one of the milestones of traditional luxury watchmaking, was the guest of our pages with the model Récital 12 Monsieur Dimier, who refers to the brand’s original design language.Bovet may not be among the first names that come to mind when it is all about the world of watches, but that doesn’t mean that the miniature artwork created by the brand in the name of traditional luxury watchmaking can be ignored. The brand, which is highly appreciated with its complication themed models, is under the spotlight with the Récital 12 Monsieur Dimier model today…I start the review with the case like I always do, but as also seen in the photos, there is not much to talk about it when compared to the other parts of the model. The case, which is made of 18K pink gold, measures 42m in diameter and 9.40mm in height. Mostly decorated with glossy finish, the case is equipped with anti-reflection coated scratch resistant sapphire crystals on both sides as well as a blue sapphire set 18K winding crown. The unique lug design of the case, which reminds me Rustic style sofa legs, provides maximum wearing comfort despite the largish size and the heavy gold structure.The model’s dial is largely perforated. You can read the time from the sub-dial finished in cobalt blue tone with Sun Ray pattern placed at 3 o’clock. The rest is designed to make the model’s engineering wonder movement visible. At 12 o’clock, there is a power reserve indicator in the form of a bridge. Since the display has the same surface form as the components of the movement, it blends with the rest of the picture but at the same does its job properly. The small second sub-dial, positioned at the 9 o’clock, is again one of the unique features of the model, since only the value between 0 and 20 seconds can be read from this sub-dial. However, considering that the small second hand is made up of three parts, like a windmill, you can still track the seconds between 20 and 60.One of the most important parts of the model is the movement that beats in. The model is powered by the Caliber Virtuoso II (13.75-70-A1) movement. 41 jewels hand-wound movement has a distinctive design for the second hand part as the gear train is visible from both sides of the movement. The movement, which offers exclusive visual decorations as well as a pleasant symmetry, provides a highly satisfactory 7-day power reserve when fully wound.The model comes on a gray alligator strap that is secured by a Bovet signed Ardillon type buckle made in line with the case material, 18K pink gold. Besides its high quality feel, the strap positively effects the wrist comfort of the timepiece.
Bovet Récital 12 Monsieur Dimier (Ref. R120007), just like the brand itself, does not offer features to appeal to a wide audience. However, this model, which tries to exalt traditional watchmaking with the refinement of the visual architecture of the movement rather than taking classical complications to a higher level (or increasing their number within the same model), certainly deserves appreciation.
Bovet Dimier Récital
Dimier is a sub-brand of Bovet, that is just as high-end, and also known as the watch movement maker of the group. Bovet didn’t start Dimier, but rather acquired it. I’ve never seen a Dimer watch in the US – only in Europe – butt hat doesn’t mean there aren’t a few of them hanging around. Bovet and Dimier watches are said to be made in the same place, with similar values. Though Dimier watches are a bit more traditional in form. Unlike Bovet watches they don’t have that pocket-watch-on-your-wrist style that is quite unique.Bovet and Dimier are more or less manufacture movements for all the high-end stuff. Dimier watches are rare and what I have assorted here are their six “Recital” watches. Will there be a Dimier Recital 7? Probably. I don’t know the release cycle of the Recital watches, but a new one might be slated for release each several years. UDATE: See info on what is meant to be the Recital 7 below.
Many of the watches in the collection have a common set of features – these include automatic winding, a tourbillon, and a power reserve indicator. Though not all the watches have each of these complications in them. Each done in a precious metal case, these special timepieces are both classic, but experimental in their presentation of traditionally valued complications. While the features and overall design are very traditional, there is an avant garde old-world style decor to them. This can be seen in the style of the case and crown (with sapphire crystal cabochon) as well as the frequent use of Bovet and Dimier’s “squiggly” serpentine style hands. It also goes without saying that each of these watches is part of a limited edition.
Do I like the Bovet Dimier Recital pieces? Mostly yes. I think these are fascinating watches with a truly “old (really old) money” feel to them. I understand that Bovet is popular in Asia, and that makes sense. It will take truly the right type of Western man to adorn pieces such as this.What is very interesting is being able to write about the entire collection in retrospect as opposed to covering each watch as it came out. This way you can really see how the collection evolved, as well as how Dimier was able to alter and improve each model.
The Bovet Dimier Recital 1 watch started it all. The movement is the calibre 13DW01 manually-wound movement with an 8 day power reserve and a tourbillon. Functionally it just tells the time and has a power reserve indicator. The large case is still the smallest of the bunch being 46mm wide in 18k white or red gold – as well as in platinum. The dial is black with the circular polishing on it that typifies the movements of the collection. Interestingly enough the dial was made of rock crystal and then blackened. Why? Not sure. See the serpentine style hands? The same style of case also continues throughout the collection. Dimier calls the shape of the tourbillon cage the “lotus flower.” The Recital 1 was limited to just 50 pieces and retailed for $145,000.Dimier went a more decorative route with the Recital 2. The case here is still 46mm wide, but the dial and hands have changed. The blue dial also has flame-like shapes cut in it to reveal the movement underneath. The dial is style a rock crystal and, and the case is again 46mm wide – this time again in 18k red or white gold, or in platinum. The movement is almost the same as that in the Recital 1, but this time it is the Calibre DT7 that adds automatic winding with a 22k gold rotor. The name of the watch model is still on the dial, but Dimier was smart to reduce the size of the limited edition label (that is a bit cheesy). The Recital 2 was also limited to 50 pieces.With the Recital 3, Dimier started with something totally different. The case (available in the three metals) grew to 48mm wide, and the amount of actual dial lessened even most. Nevertheless, this clever model was able to add a “world” second time zone indicator and selector, and remain very legible. The calibre DT7-OM automatic movement had second time zone that was linked to a disc with reference city names for the 24 time zones. Pushers on the right and left of the case moved the disc right or left giving you a solid traveler’s watch. Dimier was also able to bump up the power reserve closer to that of the original with 7 days for the Recital 3. The dial has a small power reserve indicator inside of the city selector disc. The Recital 3 was also limited to 50 pieces and is one of my favorites – priced at about $215,000.Departing from the theme of the collection a bit, the Dimier Recital 4 has a new type of dial decor philosophy with a more hand engraved approach. Two large hand-engraved bridges sandwich the center dials of the watch, offering a uniquely symmetrical design. The case is 47mm wide in 18k white or red gold – with this being the busiest of the 6 existing models. Dimier crafted the Recital 4 to have a jumping hour complication. The automatic movement has 5 days of power reserve with window near 6 o’clock that has the hour displays in digital format with a small traveling arrow around the periphery of the dial indicating the minutes. This leaves much of the dial open – without hands. The cleanest part of the dial is power reserve indicator, while the tourbillon returns as the subsidiary seconds dial. This stranger 4th version of the Recital was limited to just 10 pieces, and priced at $200,000.Having the most “open” dial of the collection the Dimier Recital 5 is a lovely version in the collection with a greater emphasis on visual mechanics than it is on complication. Similar to the Recital 3, the Recital 5 has a off-centered dial for the time, but instead of a second timezone, it has an open big date indicator. The Recital 5 is back down to 46mm in width and done now in gold and titanium. The main case is titanium with gold cladding on the lugs, and gold for the bezel, crown, and caseback. The movement is the Calibre 13DM02, and is back to being manually wound, and with a 5 day power reserve indicator. The lotus flower frame gone on the tourbillon – in favor of a more open look. The main point of the Recital 5 is to show off the beauty of the movement. This one was limited to just 15 pieces and price was 170,000 – 160,000 Swiss Francs.Most recent is the Dimier Recital 6 – the first non-tourbillon version of the bunch. You can see this watch as being a combination of the Recital 3 and the Recital 5. By this point the cheesy sounding “edition limitee” term is stripped from the dial, but at least “Recital 6” is still there. This practical piece has an automatic Calibre 11BA14 movement with a 3 day power reserve and a more complex world time function. Unlike the Recital 3 watch, this one has a day/night indicator for the second time zone. This is important so that you know what time it is on the other timezone more accurately given the time being displayed in a 12 hour format. The second timezone is shifted in the same way as in the Recital 3. Not having a tourbillon allows the main time to be larger, but I miss the power reserve indicator and would have liked a date indicator. The Recital 6 has the same style of titanium and 18k gold (red or white) 46mm wide case that the Recital 5 had. This Recital 6 is not a limited edition I believe and priced at 50,000 Swiss Francs.UPDATE: At the last minute I got to have a hand’s on look at Bovet’s “Recital 0.” This is essentially the Recital 7, but has no real name on it. I also believe Bovet has just released it. The 18k rose gold watch is quite nimble in its construction having a highly skeletonized tourbillon movement that is manually wound with a week of power reserve. There is a small power reserve indicator on the dial, and the watch hands themselves are easy to read. Bovet really wanted to make viewing the wheels of the tourbillon easy – and I think you will agree they succeeded in looking at how “open” the tourbillon cage is. The Recital 0 also comes in two sizes. One is 40mm wide and the other is 45mm wide. Each has the same movement, but one has a cutaway in the lower part of the inner case for the tourbillon.
Bovet Dimier
Founder Paul Anthony with Trevor Guilday and Charles-Philippe Bowles travelled to the Val-de-Travers, Switzerland exclusively to see the Dimier 1738 Manufacture & historical Château de Môtiers.
On a frosty February morning, we were picked up from our Geneva apartment to be driven along the snow-laden Swiss landscapes.
Within a few hours, we had arrived at an understated building in a small village called Tramelan. Here, we were greeted by Christophe Persoz, Bovet’s project manager, who personally tour us around the facilitiesOur first port of call was the Dimier 1738 Manufacture purchased by Bovet’s Pascal Raffy in 2006. Christophe explained that Raffy envisioned an entirely in-house production process.In order to realise this, he obtained both the Dimier manufacture as well as the Môtiers château and a dial facility.
Built on two storeys, the manufacture is divided between micromechanics downstairs whilst the upper floor is dedicated to the artisans and watchmakers. The overall workforce consists of 73 employees and artisans of 41 different professions.
After a quick coffee, we headed down to the micromechanics workshops. Once below, we were greeted by an employee handling long machines used for lathing and milling rods into shape.
Although partly automated, these particular machines required programming to cut a particular component at a time. On one end, the rods were viced into a compartment that were then fed into the cutting section.
We were able to see one in action, which was very impressive. The piece being cut was constantly sprayed with oil under high pressure in order to reduce the temperature. Meanwhile, an automated device would both lathe and mill the piece into shape.
The results were breathtaking. A single machine could be programmed to cut a variety of wheels, gears and components with extreme precision. What was particularly impressive was seeing examples still attached to the thick brass rods. The juxtaposition of a delicate watch component hanging from a chunk of raw metal was not without poetry.
State-Of-The-Art Technology
With Bovet’s reputation for handmade timepieces and artisanal values, it was fascinating to see how they progressed with the times. The following room was framed with a variety of machines that were supervised by a handful of technicians.
Some of these were capable of cutting highly complex components. Christophe eagerly brandished a highly-detailed main plate for their 17BM03-GD calibre.This intricate structure comprised of varying curves, cross-sections and spokes on multiple levels. Used on both the Virtuoso VIII and OttantaSei flying tourbillon pieces, it was a technological marvel.Designed with lightness in mind, it’s one of the most complex main plates ever seen. The aim was to create the most lightweight plate possible that was still able to withstand 10 days of power reserve.
In order to build this impressive piece of engineering, we expected that it required several machines to build. However, Christophe pointed to a single one behind him. He then explained that originally Bovet had considered contracting another company to make this as it was so complex.
However, each one turned them down saying that it was impossible to achieve due to the piece’s three-dimensional structure.
Nevertheless, Bovet prevailed whilst staying true to their in-house philosophy. The device he had indicated was able to be programmed with multiple tools to make any component. In this instance, it required 12 separate tools, which were each made by hand in the workshop. Each base plate would take over 8 hours to be intricately created.In order to ensure that every component is precisely constructed to the micron, the centre of the workshop was dedicated to quality control. Several benches were assorted with microscopes, measuring devices and computers.
Here, each and every component would be tested and verified before being taken upstairs for assembly.The next workshop was somewhat more artisanal and what you’d expect from a watchmaker’s workshop but on a larger scale. This time Christophe introduced us to an artisan that was working on the cutting tools for making the components.
With great pride, he showed us a finished piece as Christophe explained how the vices that held the tool worked. A minute blade on a small piece of metal, we had to look close to see what it was.
“How does it take to make one of these?” We asked curiously.
“One week at the very least.” He replied proudly, “I have to cut it down in increments and if I make a mistake, I have throw it away and start again.”
“And how long does it last before needing to be replaced?” We responded.
“Oh, it could break after two days or be good for a few years.” He smiled nonchalantly.
He then enthusiastically brought us a finished component made using the tool. No bigger than a fingernail, it was a finely-sculpted wheel with thin spokes.
We Bespoke Unit team exchanged glances. We were in awe not just in how something so refined could be made by hand but how passionate this man was of his work.In the workshop’s final room, we saw a few other machines in action that were manually run. Although some new technologies could be used with certain components, others still required older, heavy-duty machinery.On one end, a woman was hunched over a machine where she would place washers to be stamped into shape. The structure looked familiar and it turned out it was using the vice and cutting tool made by the man from earlier.
We then were given a demonstration of another machine that would reel in strips of copper and cut them into components. With a purr, it began drawing in the raw metal and chopping away. Below, it would churn out the finished pieces into a box at a high-speed rate.
Many airlines don’t have the facilities that are precise enough to make some of their cockpit parts so Bovet is often called upon to make them instead. Similarly, Bovet realise a number of medical components and instruments thanks to the superior precision that they offer.
Before leaving, we then took a look at a few isometric schematics and the resources used to translate these into action with traditional light panels. After a few complex calculations, an artisan is than able to build the component with the machinery at his disposal.
Surgical Environments Bovet Dimier
As we headed back upstairs, we were fitted in sterilised surgical coats before heading into the workshops. Christophe explained that it was to avoid dust particles dispersing into the air, which would risk contaminating the delicate components inside.The first room we visited was dedicated to engraving and making some of the more intricate pieces by hand. In fact, it was quite a radical change from the rooms below. Where those were loud and energetic rooms with large machinery, this one was more reminiscent of a laboratory.
Artisans hunched over their respective pieces and concentrated on their tasks at hand. Nevertheless, they were delighted to show us some of their work.
One woman, with a particularly appropriate and eye-catching Fleurisanne-style tattoo, was carefully engraving plates under a microscope. Using a small hammer and refined chisel, she carefully tapped away at the polished metal.
She let us take a look through the lens and we would stupefied by the level of detail. Needless to say, the work was painstaking and we admired her steady hands.
Meanwhile, a few older gentlemen worked at their stations on intricate pieces too. Whilst one was carefully buffing, another was working on a piece that was so small, it was barely perceptible on the tip of a finger.
Although dazzled by their work, we left them in piece and moved onto the next room.Before we stepped into a small room in the corner of the facility, Christophe quickly explained that this particular location was somewhat confidential. Therefore, we couldn’t take many photos but we could get a small tour.
However, we were blown away by what we did see. Dedicated to the balance springs, this secretive room would be used to manufacture the world’s most refined coils in existence. Forever loyal to their in-house approach, developing this practice took considerable research, development and investment.
Using a special and confidential technique, Dimier draws and rolls out a unique steel allow into thicknesses measured in microns with a tolerance of less than 0.0001 mm. These are then carefully coiled in a surgical environment.
More impressively, the actual balance wheels on which the springs are fixed aren’t a solid piece either. Instead, they are small spokes with thin weights that come together in an almost science fiction design.
Finally, Christophe added that it was very rare for a watch firm to make these themselves. In fact, many other brands turn to Bovet to supply them with springs as it’s an expensive and sophisticated process.After checking out a few painting rooms as well as where the dial’s logo was printed using the transfer method, we were ushered into the assembly room. Although it was lunchtime, most of the technicians kindly stayed to show us their work.
In the surgically sterilised environment, technicians carefully put together the components into full movements. Here we witnessed the fruit of all the other rooms’ labour as the timepieces were carefully and intricately assembled by hand.
Through monocle eyepieces and furrowed brows, the technicians hunched over their work as they delicately put together and test the movements. One artisan took a little time to show us the completed movement in action. It was breathtaking to see all those complications of 400+ components working in harmony after having seen their construction only moments earlier.At the end of our tour of Dimiers, we were taken to a small open-space office where designers would work on the 3D models of current and future calibres.Given that much of what happened in this room was highly confidential, we were delighted that they took the time to show us some less restricted designs.
Using Autodesk’s Inventor software, each watch had been assembled in a 3D render. The designers then could strip down the full watch in its case so we could see every component and how they came together.
It was particularly impressive to see Bovet’s patented spherical winding mechanism in a full 3D environment. Here, we could really understand how the tridimensional toothing came into play and made such an innovative concept possible. Bovet Dimier
Bovet Château de Môtiers
Residents of Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers are said to regularly report seeing a “green fairy.” While this might be due to the allegedly mind-altering absinthe made in this region, a green fairy could also reference the racing mountain streams, secret caves, narrow gorges, peaceful rivers, and superb forests that characterize the area located between the French border and Lake Neuchâtel.Nestled in among the mountainous green forest overlooking the valley’s larger towns of Fleurier and Môtiers is one of the area’s historical attractions of the human kind: a stone castle whose earliest sections were built in the early fourteenth century by Rodolphe IV, count of Neuchâtel. Originally called Vauxtravers, today we know it as the Bovet Château de Môtiers, even if locals still tend to call it Vieux-Château.
Successively occupied by the valley’s lords, in 1835 the castle was purchased from the state by Henri-François Dubois-Bovet, who turned it into a farm complete with a barn near the main house.
In 1957, Dubois-Bovet’s great-grandchildren donated it to the canton of Neuchâtel, who used it for cultural and local events such as weddings. Classified as a national historical monument, it was also a tourist attraction.The 5,800-square-meter historic castle is located just one kilometer south of the village of Môtiers and overlooks Fleurier.
In 2006, the castle was purchased by Pascal Raffy, who had bought Bovet in 2001 and had already transformed STT in Tramelan into Dimier 1822, a manufacturing facility.
After being offered the Château de Môtiers by Neuchâtel’s authorities, Raffy thought to use the castle as a production site for his growing brand; currently Bovet’s luxurious watches are assembled in the location.
Raffy could hardly have chosen a more dramatic venue.
He began by renovating the former barn, known simply as “la grange,” to house production workshops. While these workshops were originally scheduled to open later in 2008, Raffy’s knowledgeable local building team was very motivated, and the renovations of this picturesque building were completed within five months.The spacious workshop overlooks both Fleurier and Môtiers thanks to large windows that flood the watchmakers in plenty of natural light. No expense was spared to make this new workshop as high-tech as possible in a controlled atmosphere designed to keep dust particles at bay and the temperature and humidity within a comfortable range.Raffy believes this is instrumental to preserving the quality of the assembly of the haute horlogerie timepieces completed there.
La Grange houses watchmakers for assembly and technicians for quality control. Bovet manufactures approximately 2,000 watches annually, many of which are unique specimens whose dials and/or cases have been custom designed and decorated to the wishes of their future owners.
Bovet Château de Môtiers, a historical monument
Raffy has also renovated the main castle building, which took quite a bit more time and patience since the company was not allowed to move any stones in the renovation of the protected edifice.A four-cornered tower called Tour de Diesse, originally home to the castle’s dungeon, staunchly overlooks the valley. Today it serves Raffy as a private dining room.
And yet another of the spacious rooms featuring a spectacular view was renovated for Raffy to use as an office.
Other rooms in the main château are used for Bovet administration and to display the brand’s private collection of pocket watches.
