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Bovet Sportster Saguaro Watches

There are certain watches that hold my interest over time. Often times, these are more rare models that you don’t see too often. Yet, I wonder what they would be like having a place in my life. One such model is the Bovet Sportster Saguaro. The “cactus” version of the Bovet Sportster is larger and has some different design elements than its smaller brother. Being a Bovet these watches are pretty much typified by their “ribbon” style crown guard along with the crown and pushers being placed at the top of the case. You are supposed to believe the watches are more closely related to pocket watches this way, however, the can-style cases remind me more of canteens and I wanna take a big sip of watch parts.There is also the Sportster Saguaro Meteorite version of the watch that has a really nice Gibeon meteorite dial. I first wrote about the Bovet Sportster Saguaro Meteorite watches here. Bovet claims the space stones that make up the dial are something like 4 billion years old – that is pretty cool. These are my favorite Sportster watches because I really like how the meteorite gives a sort of organic feel to the otherwise composed case and design. You can get various meteorite stone stains such as silver, black, and gold. All the Sportster Saguaro watches are 46mm wide in really chunky looking cases. Like I said, these cases feel like hefty canisters, holding precious innards. The cases are thick and highly polished with a wide bezel. Though the design doesn’t feel massive because of the single lug style, it is a rather clever way of making a larger watch feel not as large.The ribbon style crown guard is a unique element which sometimes makes me think the Sportster Saguaro looks like one of those military pendants on a strap, on your wrist. Bovet offers no shortage of Sportster Saguaro case and dial styles. Pictured here are just a few of them. The cases are available in steel, 18k rose gold, as well as a few versions where PVD and gold are mixed to create some cool looks. Personally, I am a fan of black mixed with gold so these are some of my favorite models.

While Bovet does make movements, the Sportster models use Dubois Depraz automatic chronographs. I believe these are Valjoux 7750s with a big date module on them. The decoration on the movement is some of the best I’ve seen for a 7750 base, and the custom blued automatic rotor is attractive. As a sports watch, the Sportster Saguaro doesn’t mess around. It is water resistant to 300 meters, has a sapphire crystal, comfy rubber strap, and as stated before, the case has a really thick and durable feel.One neat feature I really like is how the curved flange ring on the outer dial is polished and done to match the case. This is also where the pulsometer scale is printed. Next to it is a tachymeter scale. Don’t forget that (love it or hate it) you get Bovet’s squiggly chronograph seconds hand. Sometimes, when I look at the dial, I like the hour and minute hands. Other times, I think I would like to see Bovet experiment with new hand designs.On the wrist the Sportster Saguaro watches are pretty nice looking. The cases are heavy, but I like that sort of thing. These are pretty manly watches from an unlikely place. Bovet really walks two paths with its Asian market friendly fare as well as stuff for the rest of the world. Prices for the Bovet Sportster Saguaro watches range quite a bit

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rolex deep sea dweller

There are luxury watch brands, and then there is Rolex. No matter where you go on the globe, you will find someone who’s in awe of this outstanding manufacturer of timepieces. For over a century, everyone from actors to musicians to politicians and other highly successful people has worn this luxury watch brand on their wrist.

But a Rolex watch is more than just a status symbol. It’s a piece of machinery that’s been made by master craftsmen in Switzerland. And it’s an excellent piece of jewelry that can enhance anyone’s outfit.

Rolex watches are also functional too. This is certainly true of the Rolex Sea-Dweller series, which was first introduced in 1967. The very first in this series was the Rolex Double Red Sea-Dweller. And, since then, some fantastic Rolex watches have been part of this series, including the Triple Six Sea-Dweller and the Great White Sea-Dweller.

In 2008, Rolex launched the Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Before its launch, many skeptics doubted that the Sea-Dweller series could improve, but the Rolex Deepsea took everyone by surprise. This incredible watch is loved just as much by divers as it is by experienced watch collectors.

The Rolex Deepsea also has a special relationship with the famous Hollywood film director, James Cameron. A limited-edition version of the Rolex Deepsea was released in honor of the director of Titanic, Avatar, and The Terminator.

Key Features of the Replica Rolex Deepsea
Water Resistance: The Rolex Deepsea is a diving watch. As a result, it offers complete water resistance to a depth of 3,990m or 12,800ft. This is an incredible depth that blows its competitors out of the water. You won’t find any Tag Heuers that offer water-resistance of a similar depth.

Helium Escape Valve: This is another feature that professional divers love about the Rolex Deepsea. This valve allows for helium to escape when a diver is returning to the surface during decompression.

Without this valve, the crystal could be forced out of the watch case, meaning it’ll no longer function. This is a highly effective feature that’s especially important for deep-sea divers, which is who the Rolex Deepsea was created for.

3235 Movement: This self-winding movement watch that has been created and made by Rolex. It provides precise timing, shock resistance, stability, and durability. It also has an integrated Chronergy escapement, which ensures dependability as well as efficiency.

Oyster Bracelet: This is a feature of many Rolex watches that give the Rolex Deepsea such beautiful looks. But it’s also comfortable, breathable, and – more importantly – it’s also robust, meaning that it can withstand a lot of wear and tear, especially when worn during deep-sea dives.

Blue Dial: Again, this contributes to the Rolex Deepsea’s stunning looks.

Oystersteel Case: This is another classic Rolex feature. It’s a highly resistant material that will never corrode. It will survive harsh environments, which only increases the functionality of this superb luxury watch.

  • The Rolex Deepsea is a function dive watch that will continue to work down to a depth of 3,990m. It’s built to be used during dives, which means that it’s highly resistant to corrosion and able to withstand anything that it comes up against, even in extremely dangerous waters. It is the perfect watch for professional divers.
  • Besides being incredibly functional, the Rolex Deepsea looks beautiful too. Rolex is known for its aesthetics, which is why the watch brand has such a sensational reputation. And this diver’s watch is a perfect example of those stunning looks. It can be worn for a wide range of purposes, as a dress watch with a business suit, with a t-shirt down to the beach, or for any other activity. It’s a very versatile watch that looks great.
  • It’s a Rolex watch. And a Rolex watch means dependability, accuracy, precision, and efficiency. No other watch brand can compete with the quality that Rolex provides. Yes, Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet are excellent watch manufacturers, but they’re not Rolex. There is only one Rolex, and the Rolex Deepsea is perfect proof of why this watch brand is in a league of its own.
    – There is only ever one con when it comes to Rolex watches, and that’s the price. The Rolex Deepsea is an expensive watch. Then again, that is only a disadvantage if you cannot afford a Rolex Deepsea. If you have the money to buy one, then there’s no obstacle between you and this exceptional, efficient, luxury diving watch. You can always check out these cheaper Rolex watches.
    Rolex designed the Deepsea for professional divers. Although professional divers love this watch, it’s also a luxury men’s watch that looks incredible, so it should be considered by anyone who values quality and wants to look good. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea has lots of famous fans, and it’s been spotted on the wrists of Steph Curry, Dave Navarro, Joe Rogan, Tiger Woods, and also Charlize Theron. If it’s good enough for these leaders in their fields, then it’s good enough for anyone.
    The Replica Rolex Deepsea is a faultless watch that’s worth every penny it costs. This fully functional dive watch offers water resistance to a depth of 3,990m, features a helium escape valve so that it doesn’t break during decompression, and has a durable Oyster bracelet.

It’s also a beautiful timepiece that can be worn as a dress watch or an everyday watch. It’s simply stunning and a perfect example of why Rolex is one of the best watch brands on earth.

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Replica Rolex Deepsea

In 2014 Rolex released a special version of the model, the Rolex Deepsea with a D-blue dial, to commemorate James Cameron’s historic solo dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 11,000 metres deep.The watch that conquered the deep. The Sea-Dweller and Rolex Deepsea are ultra-resistant divers’ watches engineered by Rolex for deep-sea exploration.No other watch is engineered like the Rolex Deepsea. Waterproof to an extreme depth of 3,900 metres (12,800 feet), this new-generation divers’ watch benefits from exclusive innovations developed by Rolex to exceed the most exacting demands of professional divers.The Rolex Deepsea D-Blue was introduced in 2014. The only thing that sets it apart from the standard model is its dial – even the reference numbers are the same. As indicated by its name, Rolex chose a dial with a gradient that goes from dark blue to black.
The Deepsea is the newest Rolex dive watch to join the brand’s catalog, first launched in 2008. Named after the “Deep Sea Special” prototype from the 1960s that reached a depth of 10,916 meters in the Mariana Trench, the Deepsea is Rolex’s most extreme diving watch with an impressive water-resistance rating of 3,900 meters.
Rolex Deepsea The watch that conquered the deep. Rolex watches are crafted with scrupulous attention to detail. Explore the Rolex collection of prestigious, high-precision timepieces. Rolex offers a wide assortment of Oyster Perpetual and Cellini watches to suit any wrist. Discover the broad selection of Rolex watches to find a perfect rolex watch
Rolex Deepsea. The top Rolex Deepsea replica is a Swiss movement assembled in Hong Kong. Whether it’s timeless aesthetics or outstanding features, the Rolex replica Deepsea is a classic example of a classic watch. From an aesthetic point of view, the different models of fake Rolex Deepsea retain their original aesthetics after years of baptism.

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Replica Rolex Pearlmaster

The Pearlmaster is one of the more recent additions to the Rolex fleet, first appearing in 1992, the same year that saw the launch of the original Yacht-Master.

And just as that nautically flavored watch is essentially a Submariner in a more luxurious getup, underneath the Pearlmaster’s regal finery is one of the brand’s longest-running and most universally adored creations, the Datejust.

However, while that model, and the Lady-Datejust range especially, never lacked for precious stone enhancements, the Pearlmaster has taken it to an altogether different level. Sometimes known colloquially as the Masterpiece series, there is no hint of anything except the most opulent materials used in the construction. Cases are exclusively cast in 18k yellow, white or Everose gold, and the decoration is provided by diamonds, rubies and sapphires—either a conservative sprinkling or lashed across every surface.

In addition, a unique golden bracelet was crafted for the collection. Typified by five softly rounded links, some are also augmented with scores of flawless diamonds, and all are secured with a concealed Crownlock clasp.

The Pearlmaster is Rolex at its most creatively flamboyant, and the family also represents some of the most expensive pieces in the entire portfolio. They are at the pinnacle of both the watchmaker’s and gem-setter’s art, the epitome of chic elegance.

The Start of the Collection
The first of the Pearlmasters arrived in two sizes; 34mm and a 29mm model which was three millimeters larger than the smallest Lady-Datejust of the period.

Immediately drawing admiration for their immaculate aesthetics, they marked an overdue addition to Rolex’s range of watches aimed solely at a female audience, a demographic that has always lacked for any great variety in the past.

Far from being just eye-catching pieces of jewelry, the Pearlmaster collection also benefitted from the same industry-defining engineering prowess that has long been Rolex’s calling card.

Those original pieces were driven by the in-house Cal. 2135, a scaled down version of the base Cal. 3135. That legendary workhorse can be found in most of the brand’s three-hand and date men’s watches since 1988. The smaller movements inside the Pearlmasters had the distinction of the highest first time pass rates for accuracy and reliability at the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. In fact, they held the record until Rolex’s own replacement showed up, the Cal. 2235, in 1999.

The initial generation of the Pearlmaster featured yellow and white gold cases and the vast majority used only diamonds as ornamentation, most commonly set into the bezel and used for hour indexes. Dials were available in a variety of colors, although not as comprehensive a selection as the standard Datejust range. Mother-of-pearl models were, predictably, a great favorite, making each one a unique specimen.

At the end of the decade, with the upgrade in movement, the collection became even more lavish. Rolex’s legions of gemologists were given free rein to create highly extravagant examples, such as the ref. 80359 with a double ring of diamonds on the surround and lugs, or the ref. 80339, which had the option of adding a full pavé dial as well.

In 2005, the brand introduced their proprietary pink gold alloy, known as Everose, to the range. Like all the other metals the brand uses, it is forged in their own foundry.

The Modern Replica Rolex Pearlmaster
In 2015, in keeping with the general direction of the rest of Rolex’s output, the Pearlmaster was given an increase in size options. Joining the lineup came a 39mm trio, with a choice of either a red grape, olive green or cognac sunburst dial. Far more than that though, the bezels were set with a ring of trapezoidal sapphires graduating through a range of colors to perfectly match the watch face.

Inside, it was the model to debut an all-new movement, the Cal. 3235, with Rolex’s revolutionary Chronergy escapement, granting an increase in efficiency of around 15%.

The following year, the remarkable ref. 86409RBR launched, the most sumptuous piece to date, a model drenched head to foot in so many diamonds that barely a trace of the white gold case or bracelet is visible. At around $200,000, it is currently one of the most expensive Rolex watches money can buy.

Around the same time, the 29mm version was quietly retired, leaving just the two larger pieces in the contemporary lineup.

Today, the Pearlmaster is a highly exclusive collection of extraordinary watches, aimed at the privileged few who can afford the very finest things in life.

At the heart of the Rolex Pearlmaster is the quality craftsmanship that sets Rolex wristwatches apart from the rest. Fitted with a caliber 3235 movement, a certified Superlative Chronometer, the Datejust Pearlmaster 39 keeps impeccable time. This self-winding movement is newly designed with an impressive fourteen patents to its name.Available in 34mm and 39mm diameters, the Datejust Pearlmaster is both an impressive wristwatch, running on precise Rolex time, and a dazzling accessory for the wrist. For collectors of exceptional timepieces, the Rolex Pearlmaster replica is simply incomparable.

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longines HydroConquest 41 Automatic Stainless Steel

Hey everyone, today I’ve put together a Longines Hydroconquest review for you to read through. This is a detailed review that I’ve been meaning to do for some time now.You may be wondering why I’m only now talking about a watch that’s been available for a good 10 years? I’ll tell you why, it offers fantastic value for money.
You see, the Longines HydroConquest is quite an interesting timepiece to feature, this automatic diving watch has a 41mm diameter stainless steel casing, a solid screw down caseback, an impressive water resistance rating of 300m.

A double security folding stainless steel bracelet with integrated diving extension, a mechanical Longines 633 movement that’s based off of the popular ETA 2824, a screw down crown, unidirectional aluminium rotating bezel, and a sapphire crystal glass lens.

You can see how the HydroConquest would pique the interests of any avid watch fan.

The Longines HydroConquest is now 12 years old after being introduced back in 2007. The Swatch group who own Longines had recently decided to increase the price of their popular Omega watches and needed something to fill in this lower priced gap.

This is where the Longines HydroConquest diving collection came in, more affordable than the Omega collections, it had a perfect place in the mix for The Swatch Group.
Below is an image of the Longines HydroConquest featuring a stainless steel strap.
To get things started on my Longines Hydronquest review, before the rest of our discussion about the watch I thought it would be best to list out some of the top technical specifications that people normally take a look at. This way you can easily see if this type of timepiece is for you.
Longines HydroConquest Dial and Casing Design
Now I’m not personally one to have an interest in diving, I do, however, love diving watches. For me it’s not just about the suitability of a diving watch, I find them to be extremely well built sporty watches that tend to have that bulky design I favour in a timepiece.

Diving watches often make great day to day timepieces due to their solid build and high water resistance ratings.
The Longines HydroConquest features that typically stunning design that’s perfect for both casual and formal occasions, it reminds me somewhat of the Rolex Submariner.

So whether you’re wearing a suit or sitting back in a casual short sleeve top, this timepiece simply looks perfect.

Any good luxury diving watch will feature an easy to read dial and a ton of high-quality lume, so the Longines HydroConquest does not disappoint here.

The dial features a high contrasting design with large Arabic numerals and silver toned baton style hour markers that stand out against the black background. The polished silver hands also stand out brilliantly with a diamond shaped hour hand design.

They’ve used a coating of Super Luminova for the hands, indexes, Arabic numerals, and a luminous pearl on the bezel at the 0/60 marker.

On the dial, we find the terms “Longines”, “Automatic” and “30bar (300meter)” along with a small date indicator at the 3 o’clock position. I know most people have no real use for a date display these days but it’s a feature I personally like to have on a timepiece.

The uni-directional aluminium bezel works perfectly with solid clicks and a luminous 0/60 marker. If you don’t dive, you won’t really need this feature much.
The bezel is actually a useful feature for a real diving watch, allowing the diver to keep track of an allotted time frame. Moving on to the casing of the Longines HydroConquest now, this model features a popular 41mm stainless steel case that would sit perfectly on most men’s wrists.

They do have a smaller size available if need be which measures 39mm.

There’s even a 30mm edition for women. The thickness of the casing for this model is approximately 10mm and in keeping with the typical size of diving watches in this diameter.

Another key feature you’ll find on any decent diving watch is a screw down crown. The benefits of a screw down crown are the increased water resistance it provides, stopping you from accidentally pulling the crown out whilst under water.

The crown on this Longines watch features the Longines insignia and is fairly easy to grasp.

It’s protected by two stunning looking crown guards that I find to be very nicely shaped. The caseback for the Longines HydroConquest has a solid design and screws down.

Now I’ve always been a fan of a see-through exhibition caseback so I felt a little let down by the lack of this, but at the same time, I can completely understand the decision.

Firstly the caseback needs to screw down for the added water resistance, secondly, an exhibition caseback that could withstand the pressure would certainly add quite a bit of cost to this so far affordable timepiece.
What next on our Longines Hydroconquest review? The strap of course! The Longines HydroConquest I’ve decided to feature has a stainless steel bracelet. There are of course rubber strap versions available, I just fancied featuring this particular model instead.

Like many other popular luxury diving watches, the HydroConquest makes use of a larger Oyster-style stainless steel strap.

The links are connected by screws with a polished finish to the center links, this matches up nicely with the mixed brushed and polished finish of the casing.

The stainless steel clasp fastens with a solid fold over catch with safety catch. A bonus to this strap is, of course, the diving extension feature that allows you to slip the Longines HydroConquest over your wetsuit with no added fuss.
The Longines HydroConquest Movement
At the heart of the Longines HydroConquest is a L633 caliber Swiss made automatic self-winding movement which is based off of the ETA caliber 2824 workhorse movement.

You’ll find the ETA 2824 featured in a huge range of automatic watches from the Hamilton Khaki range to the luxurious Tudor Pelagos. This Swiss made self-winding automatic movement has 25 jewel design and beats at 28,800 BPH providing you with a smooth sweeping second hands that ticks 8 times per second. When fully wound the movement has a power reserve of 38 hours.

Longines HydroConquest Crystal
Protecting the front of this luxurious diving watch is a sapphire crystal glass lens. You’ll typically find this type of glass on higher end watches as it provides an excellent level of scratch resistance with a Mohs hardness rating of 9.

The glass features an anti-reflective coating on the underside of the glass (again typically found in higher end watches) this reduces the level of glare on the timepiece.

Also Read: Best Minimalist Watches

Longines HydroConquest Water Resistance
I’ve mentioned a few times already that the Longines HydroConquest features a very good level of water resistance. It makes use of both a screw down crown and screw down caseback for a 30 bar (300meter) water resistance rating.
The Longines HydroConquest could certainly be described as a masterpiece of watch engineering. The automatic movement features a similar sweeping second hand to that that you’d find in a Rolex which is typically indicative of a quality timepiece.

The overall quality of the Longines HydroConquest is insanely good, you get a high quality Swiss movement, sapphire crystal glass, and a 300m water resistance rating. Considering this timepiece is about 1/6th the price of a Rolex, it’s a suitable alternative for anyone looking for a luxury diving watch on a budget.

Having taken a look at the quality, specifications, and pricing of this watch, I’ve decided to reward a 9/10 for my Longines Hydroconquest review.

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Longines Dolce Vita 28.2 Automatic Stainless Steel Sector

Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial.Longines added a new version to its DolceVita model family, one of the modern representatives of the Art Deco trend. One of the locomotive names of the Swiss Watch Industry, Longines continues to attract a great deal of attention from watch enthusiasts with its models designed following the Heritage concept for a long time.
However, all models with nostalgic themes in the wide product range of the famous brand are not only collected under the Heritage Collection. DolceVita model family, one of the permanent names of Longines catalogs, is regarded as the modern-times representative of the Art Deco movement, which had its hey-day between 1920-1930.This trend, which also inspired legends such as the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, meets with watch enthusiasts once again with the new Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial.
The new model comes in a rectangular case measuring 28.20mm in width and 47.00mm in height. The Art Deco style case, rounded down from the crystal part and forming thick lugs with its long sides, is made of stainless steel. The case with a convex sapphire crystal on the front and the snap-on case back with the Longines logo on the back is accompanied by a Longines signed winding crown. The elegant case can withstand water pressure up to 30 meters.
The Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial comes with a stylish yet period-correct dial, which consists of segments separated from each other by different surface forms on metallic gray. This design, which we remember from the Longines Heritage Classic model, is accompanied by horizontally positioned bar-type hour markers and Arabic numeral indices. The date function can be viewed through the elegant window placed at 6 o’clock, while the time is displayed with the classic hands and “railroad” style scale surrounding the dial.The new model is powered by the Caliber L592. Based on the ETA A20.L011, 22-jewels automatic movement beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28.800vph) and offers up to 45 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
The Longines DolceVita Automatic Art Deco Sector Dial comes with a crocodile leather strap accompanied by a Longines signed stainless steel clasp. The strap is available in brown (L5.767.4.73.0) and black (L5.767.4.73.3) color options.

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Patek Philippe Watch Twenty-4

Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Patek Philippe Watch Twenty-4 has added three new models to its Twenty-4 collection. The addition demonstrates Patek Philippe’s commitment to this ladies’ line as a full collection despite the company’s very limited overall production. One of the new models is an 18k rose gold version of the original manchette (cuff-style) design, with a chocolate sunburst dial. The other two are part of the newer Twenty-4 Automatic collection, one in steel with a sporty green sunburst dial and the other in 18k rose gold with a gold sunburst dial.The original manchette-style Twenty-4, with Roman numerals, was launched in 1999. Nearly 20 years later in 2018, Patek updated the collection with a round Automatic Twenty-4 collection, with Arabic numerals. Patek routinely discontinues models once a new reference is designed, but surprisingly chose to continue the collection with both original and new Twenty-4 styles. Both models retain the original bracelet style. Last year, manchette models with Arabic numerals were introduced. There are now 12 models in the Twenty-4 collection.The Twenty-4 manchette style contains the quartz movement E15, and the Twenty-4 Automatics contain the caliber 324 S C movement with a 45-hour power reserve. It is a full-rotor automatic movement, and the same caliber used in some Nautilus and Calatrava men’s references.All models are fitted with 18k gold hands, and all hands and hour markers on all three new models are coated with Super-LumiNova, which makes them glow in the dark. The Twenty-4 is so named because it is designed to function in any setting, as a great day-to-night watch. The advertising for the original 1999 launch bore the slogan “Who will you be in the next 24 hours?” shining the spotlight on the watch’s versatility. The new Twenty-4 manchette in rose gold, set with 34 diamonds, is priced at $44,947. The new Twenty-4 Automatic in rose gold, set with 160 diamonds, is priced at $27,796 , and the steel version is priced at $48,495.Patek Philippe has expanded its ladies Twenty~4 collection with three new gem-set references using both quartz and automatic movements.

The new references include a single quartz piece using the ‘manchette’ style cuff case and two automatics in round cases, a comparatively recent addition to Patek’s line-up, first introduced in 2018.

Joining the quartz line-up is the Ref 4910/1201R-001, a 18kt rose gold manchette or cuff-cased quartz model set with 34 flawless Top Wessleton diamonds paired with a chocolate brown sunburst dial, applied indices and baton hands, all filled with Super-LumiNova. It joins two existing stainless steel Ref. 4910/1200 pieces in the collection and is priced $44,947 USD.

Meanwhile the 36mm Twenty~4 automatic offering gets both new stainless steel and rose gold models.

The stainless steel Ref. 7300-1200A-011 features an olive green sunburst dial (green dials made the jump from eye-catching novelty bait to mainstream must last year) surrounded by a bezel set with 160 brilliant-cut arranged in two offset rows.

Correctly assuming that you can never have too much gold, the Ref. 7300-1200R-011 doubles down, pairing 18kt rose gold case and bracelet with a rose gilt sunburst dial and the diamond-set bezel. Both automatic models are powered by Patek’s 324 S C movement and are priced $27,796 USD and $48,495 USD respectively.

In other watch news, London design studio Objest launch a vegan watch on Kickstarter using a fruit leather strap.

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Longines Master Collection 42 Chronograph Comemorativa 500 Anos Circunavegação

Acomplicated looking, classically-designed timepiece is a welcome addition to any watch collection and something like this Longines Master Collection Moon Phase Chronograph reference L2.673.4.78.3 is a solid and affordable way to include such an item into your collection. It contains the Swiss Made ETA Valjoux 7751 which is modified to become the Longines caliber L687. My first ever “complicated” watch included a Valjoux 7751 and I think it is a very effective way to enjoy a good volume of complications without crossing into the price spectrum of haute horology products.Longines is no stranger to the 7751 movement family – having featured these movements in various Master Collection timepieces for years now. The success of combining the Master Collection timepiece aesthetic with the features in the 7751 movement is proven. This particular model comes in with an elegantly decorated movement and a very sensible 40mm wide case, which is about as small as you can get given the size of the movement itself.The 4Hz, two day power reserve 7751 automatic movement is modified visually by decoration as well as technically with the inclusion of a column-wheel transmission system for the chronograph in some models. Column wheels are nice to look at and considered to be more “collector worthy” depending on who you speak to. At the least, Longines is able to offer more than just your standard Valjoux 7751 by having the L687 caliber movement which adds a bit more technical fascination. With that said, depending on the particular Longines Master Collection model you get (meaning when it was produced) you might be getting a different movement. The more recently produced L2.673.4.78.3 seems to contain the L687 movement but slightly older models like my review unit contain the caliber L.678.2 movement which, I believe, is more or less the same thing but without the column wheel and a bit more power reserve (up to about 54 hours from about 44 hours).The core 7751 movement was designed to add functionality to the iconic Valjoux 7750 automatic 12 hour chronograph. What it adds is a complete calendar (displaying the month, date, and day of the week), as well as a moon phase indicator and synchronized 24 hour hand which effectively serves as an AM/PM indicator. I’ve written about watches that use the 7751 movement for over a decade now, and I will remind readers that one of the downsides of the 7751 is that it presents particular design challenges for watchmakers seeking to create visually balanced dials. So much of the “weight” of the information on the dial is on the left-side. That means the right side of the dial is relatively sparse and typically reserved for a watch brand logo.

Longines Master Collection 42 Chronograph Longines designs this Master Collection dial about as well as can be expected around the 7751’s quirky dial layout.I like the dial design with its traditional printed Arabic hour numerals and a barley corn pattern-aesthetic stamped into the dial. This is designed to mimic the look of guilloche-engraved dials, but to get authentic machine engraving on a dial you need to step up to a Breguet timepiece which is a sibling to Longines within the Swatch Group. Longines uses blued-steel hands properly and without many reflective surfaces on the dial, it makes for a highly legible watch. Also, there is a subtly-domed AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial which does not suffer from glare issues, thankfully. In addition to attention to legibility, build quality is also a focus and the watch serves as a real tool-style instrument which is something very apparent in most of the Longines Master Collection products.At 40mm wide this is the smallest Master Collection watch I’ve worn that contains a 7751-based movement inside of it. Longines also produces the reference L27734783 which is a 42mm wide version of the Master Collection also outfitted with the L687 movement for those who want a slightly larger case. The challenge with a 40mm wide case is that it must look proportional given the relatively high nearly 14mm thick case, which is made necessary by the movement. This is less of an issue with a wider 42mm wide or larger case. What Longines does in order to visually reduce mass is to highly round both the polished steel bezel as well as the caseback. To the eyes, this technique results in a case that appears less thick than it actually is.With 30 meters of water resistance this isn’t a sports watch, but it is designed with enough durability to serve as a daily-wear timepiece. On the brown alligator strap this Master Collection L26734783 has a slick, old-world style appeal to it. Longines also offers the same watch in a matching steel metal bracelet in the reference L26734786 that lends it a slightly more contemporary feel. I further appreciate that Longines does not charge a premium for the metal bracelet. Whether or not you order the Master Collection moon phase chronograph on the strap or bracelet, the price is the same. That said, Longines does charge $225 more for the 42mm wide versus the 40mm wide version.There is nothing particularly revolutionary about this watch, nor does it attempt to be. Longines at its best offers a traditional, handsome timepiece in a modernly constructed and worry-free package. Longines benefits from its rich history and deep industrial resources by being part of the Swatch Group, delivering real value and product quality to global watch lovers. For that reason Longines is one of the Swatch Group’s best performing brands, and in some parts of the world it is their absolute best performing brand. As a seasoned watch collector, I see Longines as having specific value to new or more casual watch collectors with most of their products such as the Master Collection. Once in a while Longines does however release something that even veteran watch collectors simply must have. Easy to wear and enjoy, the Longines Master Collection reference L2.759.4.69.2 watch

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Bovet Pininfarina

La Bovet by Pininfarina Collection, risultato della partnership nata nel 2010 tra le due Aziende, si arricchisce di una nuova gemma: il flying Tourbillon OTTANTASEI. Questo quarto Tourbillon segna una svolta significativa nello sviluppo della Collezione evidenziando, al tempo stesso, codici di design distintivi. Il Tourbillon OttantaSei è disponibile in titanio e in oro rosso 18K in un’edizione limitata di 86 orologi. La Bovet by Pininfarina Collection è composta da altri tre Tourbillon (OTTANTA, OTTANTADUE and OTTANTATRE) e due Cronografi (Sergio e Cambiano).Il Tourbillon OttantaSei rimane fedele alle linee essenziali che caratterizzano la Collezione ma, al tempo stesso, afferma il proprio carattere grazie ad innovazioni tecniche e a evoluzioni stilistiche. La parola “light”, con la sua connotazione ambivalente di luminosità e di leggerezza, è stata la parola d’ordine in ogni fase di sviluppo di questo progetto. Prendendo ispirazione dal mondo dell’aviazione, i team di Pininfarina e Bovet hanno studiato soluzioni capaci di rendere il Tourbillon distintivo e molto confortevole al tempo stesso. La cassa dell’orologio incarna pienamente questa filosofia: quattro ampi cristalli di zaffiro coprono le principali superfici, mentre elementi a contrasto in titanio e oro tracciano i contorni essenziali della struttura.

Il risultato evoca il vetro che circonda la cabina di pilotaggio di un aereo o di un elicottero. L’accurata lavorazione e la delicata metallizzazione dei cristalli di zaffiro permettono una straordinaria vista del movimento, vera anima dell’orologio, mentre il tocco di eleganza sinonimo delle due società è presente attraverso le parole ‘Pininfarina’ e ‘limited edition’ incise a laser sulle superfici interne concave delle pareti dei cristalli di zaffiro. Le viti disegnate da Pininfarina, usate in tutti gli orologi della collezione, sono un’ulteriore caratteristica distintiva. L’evoluzione stilistica è abbinata a un’importante innovazione tecnologica che garantisce 10 giorni di autonomia all’OttantaSei.For 2016, Swiss Bovet presents the latest timepiece as part of the brand’s ongoing design collaboration with the famed automotive (for the most part) design firm Pininfarina in Italy. aBlogtoWatch debuted the first watch from this relationship back in 2010 with the Bovet Pininfarina Ottana Tourbillon. Since then, there have been a range of relatively affordable models, and for 2016, we return to a glitzy tourbillon model which has an interesting new design with the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon watch.The most distinctive design feature of the OttantaSei (means “eighty-six” in Italian) watch is how the case looks and feels. At 44m wide and 12mm thick, the specs alone do not really communicate what this wide and proportionally thin case feels like on the wrist. Because the sides of the case are fitted with sections of transparent sapphire crystal, this feels so little like how most watch cases do. It feels more like a display cage for the movement contained within.The Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon watch is also quite light – especially in the two titanium versions. I must admit that given the “bow style” crown position at 12 o’clock, it wears in a quite large fashion, but it isn’t uncomfortable. Bovet claims that even in gold, the case only weighs 51.66 grams (without the strap). The entire point of the design was to make the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon light-looking… and light-feeling.There are a total of four sapphire crystals on the case, and the use of flat crystals on the top as well as the flat planes on the sides make the watch feel like a large coin on your wrist. Laser engraving is used on the sides of the case to print the “limited edition” and “Pininfarina” labeling, while the partial seconds indicator scale is printed on the one of the main crystals and read on the opposite side. Unlike some of the convertible Bovet watch cases I’ve reviewed in the past, the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon watch does not transform into a pocket watch, pendant, or desk clock. The case is water resistant to 30 meters.Inside the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon is a new movement known as the caliber 17BM03MM. Manually wound, the movement operates at 18,000 bph (2.5Hz) and has a long power reserve of 10 days in one barrel. To view and operate the movement is real beauty. Bovet decided to keep things as simple and classy as possible by offering the time on a subsidiary dial, large-diameter tourbillon (which doubles as the small seconds indicator), and a power reserve indicator.There is also a special system on the winding stem which can be observed just under the Bovet logo that was developed by Bovet a few years ago and, in addition to looking really nice, is said to increase winding efficiency so that the user does not need to wind the crown as many times to fully charge the movement. Note the small sapphire crystal plate on the crown which happens to have the Pininfarina logo on it (for the first time in this watch collection, I believe).Design wise, the 17BM03MM movement is a stunner, with dark-gray-finished plates and attractive texturing and finishing. All the Pininfarina watches have a decidedly modern edge to them compared to a lot of the classic or Old World, “artistically dense” design style that many people associated with Bovet.Even as a ritzy tourbillon-laden timepiece the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon still feels like a sport watch with the highly legible hands and indicators as well as the very light feeling on the wrist. The rubber strap has a nice deep blue Alcantara-lining, and allows for an overall very comfy fit – an even comfier fit if you have really large wrists given how the larger-feeling case fits.The movement architecture and skeletonization is pure “haute horology” with a range of fine yet modern decorative details and finishing. I am aware that the design of Bovet timepieces makes them not suitable for everyone, but I still believe most watch lovers can easily rally behind the execution of technique and skill in these watches. Moreover, how often to have a watch that so conspicuously features a large flying tourbillon and also has brightly SuperLumiNova-painted hands (note that on these prototype models, the hands were hand-painted so the lume appears uneven).Bovet will produce the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon as a limited edition of just 86 pieces. That includes all three case styles which are available as the reference TPINS002 in 18k red gold, the TPINS001 in natural titanium, and the TPINS003 in DLC-coated black titanium. Last, it appears that Bovet has also updated the warranty on their watches (at least some of them) in light of moves by other watch industry players, so the Bovet Pininfarina OttantaSei 10-Day Tourbillon

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Bovet by Pininfarina

While I’ve watched over the last decade as Pascal Raffy has deftly transformed modern Bovet into a serious mid-sized brand with a comprehensive collection of largely in-house developed and manufactured timepieces, some with quite sophisticated complications, few of the brand’s models have caught my attention.

And that hasn’t been from a lack of eye-catching art and innovation on Bovet’s behalf; it’s just that the ornate and intricate artwork that the brand is so well known for comes across as a bit too busy for me. My personal taste tends towards simplicity in aesthetics, while aficionados of Bovet (and there are many) seem to appreciate more elaborate design. To each his own.

But then along came the Bovet Ottantasei by Pininfarina, which for me a near perfect watch.

Engineered for comfort
For me, watches are to wear and enjoy so I place a premium on comfort and being able to see (and appreciate) as much of the movement as possible.

Display backs, open dials, and skeletonized watches all pander to my desire to be able to observe the inner workings of wristwatches, but my nec plus ultra are those timepieces that have been developed from the ground up to showcase the movement.

My Holy Grail of such rare timepieces is the Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique (see The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique: What’s Friction Got To Do, Got To Do With It!?). But the Technique has one major drawback for me: its 48 mm case diameter makes it too large for comfort on my small wrist.

What are the chances of another watch coming along that has been developed to display as much of the movement as possible, featuring interesting horological innovations, and is comfortable to wear on a smaller wrist?Bovet and Pininfarina
While Italian design house Pininfarina (see Pininfarina: The Mecca Of Supercar Design And The Bovet Ottantasei) is perhaps better known for designing many, if not most, of the most sensually streamlined supercars on the planet, the company also designs everything from motor yachts to skyscrapers. And as it turns out, watches as well.

The partnership between Pininfarina and Bovet began in 2008. To date this has resulted in the following models: Ottanta Tourbillon (2010), Cambiano Chronograph (2011), the second-generation tourbillon Ottantadue (2012), the third-generation tourbillon Ottantatre (2013), Sergio Split-Second Chronograph (2014), and the Ottantasei Tourbillon (2016).Bovet Ottantasei by Pininfarina
The brief from Bovet to Pininfarina for the Ottantasei was, indeed, brief:

Maximum transparency/minimum weight (think aerospace)
Slim and ergonomic
Ottanta visual identity
Flying tourbillon
It’s impossible for me to exaggerate just how far both Pininfarina and Bovet pushed the limits in each of those categories.But, I can’t help but feel that when developing the Ottantasei, Pininfarina and Bovet reduced the watch and movement to nearly absolute perfection . . . and then took off a tiny bit more. A tiny bit too much. And that vexes me all the more because this watch is otherwise flawless in what it sets out to do.

And when I say they “took off a tiny bit more,” I mean “tiny bit” as measured in atoms, not grams. But that’s enough.To put the development of the Ottantasei into some context, on one hand we have Pininfarina, a world-class, if not world-leading, design company with an enviable curriculum vitae. Then we have Bovet 1822, a brand I’d describe as being guided strongly by “tradition,” but quite untraditionally with its own full manufacture in Dimier 1738 – and it is one of very few brands to even have its own hairspring manufacture.

If Pininfarina can imagine something, then chances are that Bovet can make it.In Pininfarina’s world, the word “cars” actually means “supercars,” so it should come as no surprise that the designers likened “maximum transparency/minimum weight” (think aerospace) to the adrenaline-filled worlds of supercars, supersonic jets, and helicopters.More glass is better; it’s all about the view. Though in the case of the Ottantasei, this means the view is from the outside in rather than from the inside out.Ottantasei has no less than four sapphire crystals: the upper and lower (display back) having quite complex forms to ensure maximum strength for minimum thickness, while the two side windows are so long that the effect is of a sapphire case with a thin metal frame.That back crystal does more than offer a tantalizing look into the reverse side of the movement: it supports the movement. In a clever method of reducing height to an absolute minimum, the movement is fixed to the back crystal; both are fitted into the case as one.

The 44 mm diameter case weighs just 51.66 grams (< two ounces) in red gold and a feather-light 15.54 grams (0.54 ounces) in grade 5 titanium. And at just 12 millimeters thick, the Ottantasei is very comfortable on the wrist, even a slim wrist. The familiar design elements of the bow, the 12 o’clock placement of the crown, the visible screw heads, the typical bezel, and the single lower lug at 6 o’clock all ensure that the Ottantasei is firmly – and visibly – rooted in the Ottanta collection.Bovet Caliber 17BM03 features the most complex main plates ever created by the manufacture, one in perfect balance between being as light a possible while being strong enough to contain and control the long ten days of power stored in the mainspring.The movement has been awarded three patents: two related to the winding system and one to the flying tourbillon.The main advantage to a flying tourbillon is that its construction does not require an upper supporting bridge so it is easier to see and appreciate the highly animated mechanism. But supporting a structure at only one end usually means added tension, as it isn’t naturally balanced.What Bovet has done is to support the flying tourbillon from near its center instead of its base, which allows for the mass of the lower balance and upper tourbillon cage to balance each other out.This system also allows better views and appreciation of the components comprising the regulator, with the tourbillon cage on full view from the top and the balance from the back.The three-dimensional power reserve indicator is also quite interesting. As the spring barrel slowly unwinds, it turns a wheel that rotates a polished steel cone around a central threaded screw, moving the cone up and down the screw.A small lever tracks the vertical position of the cone, transmitting the information to a long lever with a rack that rotates the power reserve indicator. The system is simple, reliable, and interesting to watch, especially when the movement is in the process of being wound.While a fully wound watch with a ten-day fill of power is a wonderful thing, it takes quite a lot of winding to fill the empty “tank.” So Bovet’s engineers developed a patented winding system with a spherical differential and reduction gearing allowing the mainspring to be wound twice as fast for the same number of turns. The system also reduces the number of components required, reducing friction and increasing reliability.The profile of the specially developed three-dimensional gear was awarded a patent as it allows for gearing, even multiple gearing, to connect efficiently at a multitude of angles.Not only is the movement sketetonized on all horizontal surfaces to ensure that there is absolutely no excess weight, the vertical surfaces have also been sketetonized. And as virtually all of the movement is visible from all angles, bridges and plates have anglage on all four faces of the components (two horizontal, two vertical) rather than the more usual two.I particularly like the curved lines in the clous de Paris engraving visible through the display back. Traditional clous de Paris is usually a grid pattern set at right angles; however, not being aware of all the centuries of horological tradition, on seeing the proposed finish Pininfarina’s designers thought it would look better still if the engraving followed the curves of the bridges. And so it came to pass.