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Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier

If you told me about it over the phone, with its blue-lacquered hand engraving and pocket watch-style bow at 12 o’clock, I would have told you the Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier probably isn’t for me, nor would I imagine it having a shot at wide appeal. Luckily, I learned about it in person and not over the phone — and after trying it on, I was quite smitten by it. Here’s a hands-on look at why it’s such a fantastic alternative to the run-of-the-mill luxury watches pumped out by the household names of the industry.Luxury is such a tired term it gives me the wrong kind of goosebumps, and so I avoid using it as much as possible. Ariel and I recorded a Superlative Podcast episode on this matter that should be launched soon, so a dissertation on the tiredness of the term we won’t be getting into now. Thank goodness for that. The point is that while many watches come at luxurious prices, they often meet very few of the rest of the requirements one could reasonably expect from a luxury product. Say, for example, that it is genuinely rare. That it looks and feels handcrafted. That it boasts unique details made possible by artisans dedicated to their trade. And last but not least, that it exudes class, confidence, and at least aspires to be timeless in its appeal.You may very well be the exception, but we mortals sometimes have the tendency to forget about some of those requirements as we are sidetracked by the allure of wearing a timepiece that offers instantaneous and widespread recognition. That tells our peers we have made it. How much (or how little) personal taste we have developed in the process of “making it” is left in the mist of blissful ignorance because, hey, who would dare tell us off when wearing a five-figure watch, anyway?Bovet, and most all other petite brands like it, is different if for no other reason than its lack of widespread recognition. Watch-wearing habits are an incredibly complex matter, so humor me for dumbing it down this much: Part of the reason some of us like wearing Rolexes and Cartiers is because we like having a luxury watch on while wearing shorts and t-shirts for going out. A handcrafted Bovet with a bow on top is not exactly made for that. However, some others among us still dress up (and I mean dress up) five or more days of a week — and yet, we see them wear the same Rolexes and Cartiers worn by short-wearing dudes. The Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier is for them — so long as they have a bit of budget left for a beater watch to wear during the weekend. With that differentiation made, here’s the point I’m getting at.This watch is exactly the kind of watch that, I think, can get that sort of reaction. Better still, it gets that reaction through a familiar feeling of surprise because you have seen stuff like it before and you kind of know under what circumstances you might experience it again… And yet, when it actually strikes, is when you have those sentiments echo in your head.

At just 9.05mm-thick, it is as thin as a proper dress watch should be and at 42mm-wide it looks imposing without appearing compensatory. The uniquely shaped bow on top is brilliantly finished and crowned by a, ahem, crown with a blue sapphire cabochon. Being an entry-level piece in the Bovet collection, the Bovet 19thirty Fleurier doesn’t have the Amadeo system of other Bovet pieces that allows for a tool-free transformation of the wristwatch into a pocket watch or table clock. You do nevertheless have a beautifully balanced vibe of classic watchmaking coming from this setup. For those yet to embrace this aesthetic, the 19Thirty Dimier version has traditional lugs and a crown at 3 o’clock — which is also great, but the 19Thirty Fleurier version is the real deal.The movement is Bovet’s in-house 15BM04 caliber with seven days of power reserve supplied by a single mainspring that is over one meter (three feet) long. The two images above depict the same watch and the same movement under different lighting that really shows off the versatility and refinement present only in high-quality movements. There is a power reserve indicator on the dial side at 3 o’clock, as well as a subsidiary running seconds. The overall style was inspired by a Bovet pocket watch from 1930, hence the look and the name.Other colors are, of course, available and for those who find the blue lacquered hand engraving a bit much, there are engraved versions without the blue lacquer application, others with no hand-engraving at all, and some with a solid dial that covers the entire front of the watch. You can also have Roman, Arabic, or Chinese numerals — the latter looks great to my eyes and it’s all the more tempting with Bovet’s historically extensive success story in China (so much so that the phrase “Bo Wei” became literally synonymous with “timepiece” there in the 19th century).

In summary, the Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier is a unique-looking watch that has a sensational vibe that can only truly be appreciated in person. Front to back, side to side, it has the sort of rare elegance that is enforced by a manufacture that performs 42 different trades and professions in-house. It’s Bovet’s very own thing in every sense of the word. Priced at $21,500, the Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier in this hand-engraved variation costs less than a steel Daytona on the second-hand market — but it makes a statement incomparably more powerful, if you have the attire and presence to go with it. You can see all other versions on Bovet’s official website.

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bovet 1822

Bovet Fleurier SA is a Swiss brand of luxury watchmakers chartered May 1, 1822 in London, U.K. by Édouard Bovet. It is most noted for its pocket watches manufactured for the Chinese market in the 19th century. Today it produces high-end artistic watches with a style that references its history. The company is known for its high-quality dials, engraving, and its seven-day tourbillon. The original Bovet watches Replica were also among the first to emphasize the beauty of their movements with skeletonized views and highly decorative movements. Bovet watches were also among the first to include a second hand while the company has a tradition of employing women artisans, which is rare for traditional watch making companies in Europe. Pascal Raffy is the current owner.Bovet 1822 Swiss handcrafted timepiece Dimier Récital 22 Grand Récital with 9-day Flying Tourbillon Tellurium-Orrery and Retrograde Perpetual CalendarBovet 19 Thirty Pascal Raffy, esteemed owner of Bovet 1822 and Dimier 1738, wowed followers when he unveiled a fresh collection in the second half of 2015. Crafted with both expertise and passion, 19 Thirty Bovet watches present classic watchmaking at its finest.Bovet 19 Thirty Pascal Raffy, esteemed owner of Bovet 1822 and Dimier 1738, wowed followers when he unveiled a fresh collection in the second half of 2015. Crafted with both expertise and passion, 19 Thirty Bovet watches present classic watchmaking at its finest.Bovet is a historic Swiss watch manufacturer established in Fleurier and Canton, China in 1822, failing by 1950, and resurrected as an independent in 1997. Bovet (1822-1950) Jean-Frédéric Bovet was a Fleurier watchmaker in the late 18th century. His son, Edouard Bovet, completed a watchmaking apprenticeship there and moved to London soon after.Bovet 19 Thirty Pascal Raffy, esteemed owner of Bovet 1822 and Dimier 1738, wowed followers when he unveiled a fresh collection in the second half of 2015. Crafted with both expertise and passion, 19 Thirty Bovet watches present classic watchmaking at its finest.Bovet Fleurier S.A. was founded in 1822 in London by Édouard Bovet and initially produced watches almost exclusively for the Chinese market. Édouard worked with three brothers, Alphonse, Frederic and Charles-Henri to manage shipping and production, and demand soon outstripped supply causing the company to contract with other Swiss watchmakers such as Guinand and Juvet Fleurier.

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Breitling Superocean 42

Breitling as a brand is famously known for its aviation timepieces, with the likes of the Navitimer and Aviator models being very popular. The brand however, has so much more to offer. With watches to suit sport professionals and adventurers, to the more elegant and urban watches such as the Premier collection, Breitling has a wide variety of timepieces to suit everyone.Breitling has a rich history in the diving sector as well thanks to their SuperOcean and SuperOcean Heritage collections. These two diving collections are different from each other as the Heritage has a more chronograph and sporty appearance, whereas the SuperOcean has a more clean and simple look. Two different styles of diving watches to suit two different audiences. What we have on our hands today is a piece from Breitling’s 2019 Baselworld SuperOcean collection release; the SuperOcean 42mm Automatic. When the Breitling SuperOcean was first released in 1957, it was released to make it clear that there was a new player in the diver’s watch market. Since its first release over 60 years ago, the Breitling SuperOcean collection has stayed true to the quality, pure Breitling style and exceptional performance. The 2019 update brings a new facelift with two dial colour choices (black and blue), while keeping the internal mechanics that the SuperOcean is known for the same. The 2019 update for the Breitling SuperOcean was a much needed fresh look for the collection. Since Goerges Kern took over, most of the brand’s watch families (Navitimer, Premier, Avenger etc.) have fresh new looks or complete updates altogether, so it was only in due time that the SuperOcean collection would get theirs. Georges Kern’s new Breitling team wanted to create a SuperOcean collection that would fit almost any wrist size. This is why the new collection comes with five models that have different case sizes; 36mm, 42mm, 44mm, 46mm and 48mm. The previous SuperOcean models had a busier dial, which included an internal hour track (13-24 hour markers), inner minute track and more lines of text throughout the dial. While showing more information is not a bad thing, it may provide issues in terms of readability, especially during low visibility scenarios such as deep-sea dives. The 2019 update for the Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 gives the watch a much simpler look while going big on its core dive features. The bezel is stainless steel like the 42mm casing and gets a black varnish inlay. Breitling has opted to keep the bezel ratcheted, which comes in very handy in those deep-sea underwater explorations where gloves are worn. The design of the bezel has remained relatively unchanged from the previous version, which is fine as the bezel was clean and simple to begin with. The dial is where a lot of the changes from the 2019 update have been carried out. As stated earlier, Breitling has gone from a more busier dial to a more simplistic look. The trapezoidal hour markers are much larger than the hour markers in the previous version, with Breitling also opting to use Arabic numbers for the 6-9-12 indexes. The hour and minute hands are shaped similar to the hour indexes as well. All of these markers, along with the hands, have been filled with SuperLuminova, which provides exceptional nighttime readability. A simple date window has also been positioned at the 3 o’clock position. Another notable feature on the dial is the second hand. This second hand has been given a red arrow tip, which adds a nice touch of colour and is still noticeable against the large SuperLuminova filled hour markers. At the heart of Breitling’s SuperOcean is the Calibre 17 movement. This movement is based on the ETA 2824-2 automatic movement which has a quick set date complication. The Calibre 17 movement is known to be one of the most robust movements in Breitling’s line up. Quite rightly so as it needs to perform during high-pressure scenarios such as deep-sea diving. The ETA 2824-2 automatic movement has been taken by Breitling and modified in their headquarters in Switzerland. Unlike most mechanical watches, when the bi-directional rotor winds it produces minimal noise, making the Calibre 17 movement is relatively quiet. The Calibre 17 movement has also been COSC chronometer-certified, ensuring that the watch is very accurate and performs to roughly -4 and +6 seconds in a 24 hour period. Calibre 17 comes with approximately a 38 hour power reserve and a water rating of 50Bar (500 meters) for this particular 42mm model. Overall, the Breitling SuperOcean 42mm Automatic is a sturdy sports watch with excellent diving capabilities. On a 7 inch wrist, this watch fits almost perfectly, with its a 42mm case size.The black and white contrast with the large white hour markers and hands against the black dial, provide excellent readability no matter the situation. This is further helped along by the large usage of SuperLuminova giving the dial a stunning at night. The watch doesn’t feel too bulky. However, it is certainly noticeable when worn. As you rotate the bezel around the dial, it gives the feedback of a robust and reassuring click with each turn. This can be especially helpful when wearing gloves and being underwater. The thickness of the Breitling SuperOcean 42mm automatic is roughly 14.2mm, which is great for diving. This watch is also suitable for day to day activities. However, some may struggle to fit the watch under a formal shirt due to its thickness. The watch comes with a choice of a stainless-steel bracelet or a dial colour-matching rubber strap (black or blue). Breitling has done a great job in updating the SuperOcean models by retaining a classic strong movement while giving it a more simplistic look on the dial. This piece will be sure to attract those that are after a fresh, sporty watch that’s up to any challenge, whether it be swimming, surfing or diving!

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Richard Mille RM 037 White Ceramic Replica

The latest addition to the ever growing Richard Mille women’s collection is a new interpretation of its RM 037 model that combines, for the first time, white ceramic, mother-of-pearl and white gold.White ceramic is used for the bezel and the caseback. In particular, Richard Mille uses ATZ white ceramic, where ATZ stands for Alumina Toughened Zirconia. This material is based on aluminium oxide powder tubes injected at a pressure of 2,000 bar. This high-pressure injection increases rigidity by 20-30% and reduces the material’s porosity to an absolute minimum.

Hypo-allergenic and one of the hardest materials in the world after diamond, ATZ ceramic is valued for its remarkable resistance to scratches, shocks and abrasion, as well as for its whiteness that does not change over time.The manufacturing of complex shapes like bezel and caseback of the RM 037 is very challenging and requires a lengthy, delicate machining and diamond grinding processThe resulting highly polished surfaces well highlight the distinctive tonneau shape of the case. The caseband is crafted from white gold, with satin finished surfaces that alternate to polished pillars.Assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium, the tripartite case of the RM 037 White Ceramic measures 52.63 x 34.40 x 13.00 mm and offers water resistance up to 50 metres / 165 feet, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals.

Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment on both sides, the dial is embellished by mother-of-pearl and diamonds. It reveals details of its in-house CRMA1 skeletonized movement, including the two skeletonised calendar discs used to display the oversize date over a white field placed under 12 o’clock.
A push-button located at 4 o’clock allows one to select the winding, neutral and hand setting functions with a simple push in a manner similar to a car’s gearbox. An aperture located at 4 o’clock shows the function selected: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting). The other push button at 10 o’clock corrects the date.Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback, the movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours (± 10%). It has baseplate and bridges in black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium and is equipped with a variable-geometry rotor in 18-carat 5N red gold.A patented stem-crown construction allows the integrity of the movement to be fully guaranteed and protected from external influences, since it does not use a classical crown attachment going into the depth of the movement’s heart. In fact, the stem-crown assembly is not connected to the watch movement, instead it is part of the case.

A creation of rare refinement that combines a unique design and technical excellence, the Richard Mille RM 037 White Ceramic

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Longines Record Replica Watch

Chronometric performance is a subject we often don’t talk about when it comes to new watches. For the most part, we are only focused on the aesthetics and we tell ourselves that if we really want to know the precise time, we should stick to quartz watches or our phones (or smartwatches). That may be true, but I certainly won’t want to be wearing a watch, no matter how beautiful it is, if it’s unreliable with accuracy. As a result, I have a soft spot for watches that are chronometer-certified and one of the big new releases from Longines this year at Baselworld is the introduction of their first all COSC-certified collection called the Longines Record.It is no secret by now that the Swiss watch industry is in a bit of a pickle. After an extended period of tremendous growth, exports have fallen considerably over the past two or so years. Watch brands are reacting to this in two main ways: a) give watch lovers and collectors what they want and b) offer more value for their money. Watch enthusiasts today love vintage-inspired watches, and as a result, Longines has given us recent hits like the Heritage 60th Anniversary watch and the Pulsometer chronograph. These two watches are prime examples of listening to buyers and giving them what they want.On the other hand, the new Longines Record collection is an example of offering more bang for the buck. As most readers might know, getting certification from COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) costs money and that adds to the overall price of the watch. However, the good thing about a COSC certification is that it is a guarantee that the watch will run accurately. In case you have forgotten, to receive COSC certification, the movement within must meet an average daily rate of between -4 to +6 seconds a day. It must also meet criteria in other measurements such as mean variation in rate, greatest variation in rate, and rate variation due to temperature changes. Long story short, COSC certification ensures that you have a watch that won’t make you run late for your appointments.The Longines Record collection is available in four sizes and in a variety of different dials. The four sizes available are 40mm, 38.5mm, 30mm, and 26mm, so there is something for everyone. The cases are all made out of stainless steel, have mostly polished surfaces, and have a very classic, elegant design. It is undoubtedly a very dressy piece. The cases are all water resistant to 30m and have sapphire display casebacks for owners to admire the movement.The larger 40mm and 38.5mm models are powered by the Caliber L888.4 (ETA A31.L11), while the smaller 30mm and 26mm models are powered by the Longines Caliber L592.4 (ETA A20.L11). These movements are all manufactured by ETA (but exclusive to Longines) and sent to COSC for chronometer certification. It runs at 25,200vph and it has a power reserve of 64 hours – nearly three days. They are also decently finished with a generous application of perlage and a rotor that has Côtes de Genève and the skeletonized “wings” logo of Longines.We didn’t manage to get our hands on all of the watches in the Record collection, but we did manage to try out a couple of them in 40mm, 38.5mm, and 30mm size. You can get the 40mm and 38.5mm Record watches with either a steel bracelet or an alligator strap. There are six dial options to choose from and they are as follows:

White matte with Roman numerals
Black lacquered with diamond indices
Sunray gradient black with a mixture of Arabic numerals and triangular bar indices
Sunray silver with baton indices
Sunray silver with a mixture of Arabic and triangular bar indices
Blue sunray with a mixture of Arabic and triangular bar indices
We got to see the white matte one as well as the silver one with a mixture of Arabic and triangular bar indices, and they are pretty sweet. The silver dial variant has an exquisite sunray finish and the sword-shaped hands, which are rhodium plated, are well-sized and highly legible. The decision to go with a mixture of both Arabic numerals and triangular bar indices is a good one as it prevents the dial from looking too sterile. Longines has also cleverly decided to give the dial minimal text, with only the Longines brand and logo at 12 o’clock and a simple “Automatic Chronometer” at 6 o’clock. My only complaint is that the date wheel should be in silver to match the dial.The version with the matte white dial and Roman numeral hour indices is nice too. It looks much more elaborate than the silver dial version, likely due to the large Roman numerals. This version of the Longines Record also has sword-shaped hands, but instead of being rhodium-plated, they are blued steel. As a result, they provide a bright contrast against the pure white dial. The blued steel hands are really the highlight of the watch as they change hue depending on how light falls on them. They can appear as bright blue one moment and almost black the next. Another thing to note is that on this version, the color of the date window matches that of the dial almost perfectly, which, to my eyes at least, looks more harmonious. The steel bracelet has a mix of satin and mirror polishing and is comfortable on the wrist.We got the chance to handle the smaller 30mm Longines Record too. The 30mm and 26mm variants were designed for women and have 8 different dial variants to choose from. On top of the six that I mentioned above, the 30mm and 28mm models also have an additional white mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indices. The 30mm and 28mm also have case variants that come set with diamonds.Longines Record Replica Watch

The 30mm Record watch we handled was the variant with a sunray silver dial with baton indices. Obviously, it wears a lot smaller, but it also came off as a little disproportional as I found the case to be a little too thick relative to the width of the case. Even so, the decision by Longines to offer a 30mm (and 26mm) mechanical chronometer-certified watch for ladies is worth Longines Record Replica Watchapplauding.Overall, I found the 38mm version of the Longines Record with the silver dial with Arabic and triangular bar indices to be the most pleasant. The size of the case, its thickness, and the dial look just right to me. It is neither too petite nor too big, and the dial has just the right amount of stuff such that it neither looks too dull or too cluttered.Having said that, the rest of the Record collection watches are really enjoyable too. But more importantly, it is encouraging to see Longines offer thoughtfully designed watches with chronometric performance in mind. Even more impressive perhaps is that they have smaller variants that were designed with women in mind.

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MB&F Horological Machine N°9 HM9 Sapphire Vision

At the end of 2018, MB&F launched one of their most radical Horological Machines, the HM9 ‘Flow‘.

In 2021, the Geneva-based brand goes even further presenting the new HM9 ‘Sapphire Vision‘. Thanks to a a transparent sapphire crystal shell, the HM9 engine is now revealed in all its amazing details. MB&F Horological Machine N°9 HM9 Sapphire Vision
Inspired to the lines of automotive and aviation mid-century design and somehow reminiscent of a jet engine, the HM9 ‘Sapphire Vision‘ comes in four editions, each limited to only five pieces: two editions with 18K white gold frame, featuring a PVD-coated purple or red gold-plated engine, and two editions with 18K 5N+ red gold frame, combined with a PVD-coated blue or NAC-coated black engine.
The case is characterised by an outer hull of sapphire crystal and precious metal, curved and bubbled and precisely fitted together in three parts, sealed with a proprietary combination of patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech compound bonding process to guarantee water resistance to 3 ATM (approximately 30 metres / 100 feet).
Two independent balances, slowly beating at the frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), provide two sets of chronometric data that can be translated by a differential to produce one stable averaged reading.
Conical gears turn the engine’s energy and information current through a 90° angle to feed the time display on a sapphire crystal dial, marked with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in poor light environments.
On the reverse, co-axial beneath each of the balances, we find two spherical turbines that spin freely as an element of pure visual interest.
Comprised of 301 components and 52 jewels, the HM9 engine is equipped with a single barrel delivering an autonomy of 45 hours when fully wound.
Measuring 57 mm x 47 mm x 23 mm, the watch is secured to the wrist by a hand-stitched brown or black alligator strap with red or white gold folding buckle matching the case.
Every new edition from MB&F is enough to blow our minds, but could the most recent iteration of its Horological Machine, the Horological Machine N° 9 Sapphire Vision, or HM9-SV, be its most radical?

Today we are bringing you the freshest, most up-close-and-personal photographs of this sapphire-cased timepiece to let you explore and make your own decision. And as you will see from our hands-on photos, the Horological Machine N° 9 Sapphire Vision features the technological delights that make MB&F timepieces such fan favorites.
In 2007, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser presented the three-dimensional, four-barrel Horological Machine N°1. It was a wholly inspired and disruptive timepiece that even today seems like it stepped through a stargate from the future.

In 2018, Büsser was still breaking new ground when MB&F presented its ninth Horological Machine – dubbed the HM9 Flow. At the time, Büsser called its engine “the most beautiful movement we’ve created to date.”
The outsides of the HM9 Flow were also pretty impressive. In tribute to the automotive and aeronautical designs of the 1940s and 1950s, the curvilinear case drew inspiration from the aerodynamic lines of Art Moderne design.

The combination of this streamlined aesthetic and groundbreaking caliber set an extremely high bar for future horological innovations. But three years later, Büsser and his team have again blasted ahead by encasing the HM9-SV engine in a see-through sapphire crystal shell.
The crystal material used for the case allows us to appreciate fully every aspect of MB&F’s watchmaking skill. But first, let us revel in the glory of the case construction.

The outer layer of the case is composed of curved and carved sapphire crystal and precious metal. This shell is composed of three parts, which fit together precisely, and then sealed with a patented three-dimensional gasket and a proprietary high-tech compound bonding process.
While the HM9 Sapphire Vision shares many aerodynamic attributes with its Flow predecessors, the degree of difficulty involved when working with sapphire and precious metal required a few stylistic adjustments. Look closely, and you’ll see that the sharp angles and parabolic curves of the previous Flow versions have been softened.
This reworked silhouette was necessary because sapphire crystal, although very hard, can also fracture under pressure. We think you’ll agree that these changes only add to the supernatural aesthetic of the watch.This complex case not only served as a window into the soul of the Sapphire Vision, but it also protects the watch’s fully independent cantilevered balances as they channel data into a differential that turns two heartbeats into one coherent time-pulse.

Concisely tuned conical gears efficiently move this energy and information through a 90-degree angle to feed the time display on the sapphire crystal dial. MB&F Horological Machine N°9 HM9 Sapphire Vision

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Zenith Chronomaster Sport Replica

Presenting Zenith Chronomaster Sport Replica, a versatile chronograph in a modern yet inherently Zenith design endowed with an evolved El Primero calibre capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. The next generation of the Chronomaster is here.
The New Replica Zenith Chronomaster Sport watch from Zenith is capable of measuring stopwatch functions with an accuracy of 1/10th of a second. Once again pushing the boundaries of high-frequency precision, the Chronomaster Sport is the culmination point in Zenith’s unequalled legacy of automatic chronographs that combines the spirit of the El Primero A386,
Chronomaster Sport. The Chronomaster Sport is the latest evolution in a long line of iconic chronographs. Taking inspiration from such classics as the A386, the watch combines design elements from other Zenith standouts. Components from the A277, the El Primero Rainbow, or the De Luca are all parts of the Chronomaster Sport.
Once again pushing the boundaries of high-frequency precision, the Chronomaster Sport is the culmination point in Zenith’s unequalled legacy of automatic chronographs that combines the spirit of the El Primero A386, the form of the Chronomaster De Luca and the high-frequency performance established by the El Primero calibre for over 50 years in a sporty chronograph like no other – in both style and substance.
Zenith has built on the foundation of the El Primero caliber with a marked increase in performance directly perceptible by the user. The new El Primero 3600 calibre offers even more performance and precision than its ancestor, with its ultra-readable 1/10th of a second display etched directly on its black ceramic bezel – the only watch to do so.
A descendant of the Replica Zenith Chronomaster Sport family, this emblematic chronograph boasts a more refined dial, an integrated steel bracelet with optimized comfort, enhanced finishing details, an ever more accurate search for proportions and an extremely precise tenth of a second reading.Crafted in a sleek and robust steel case measuring 41 mm wide with pump-style pushers, the polished black ceramic bezel sets the new Chronomaster Sport apart from its predecessors. Graduated over 10 seconds, its bold contrast offers exceptional legibility on the periphery of the dial.
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport comes in two references. Whether the black or white dial, both features the signature El Primero tri-color chronograph registers in blue, anthracite and light grey, just like the A386 from 1969. Each of the counters is graduated to 60 for an intuitive and instantaneous reading of the chronograph.Befitting the modern yet timeless aesthetic of this exceptional chronograph, the Chronomaster Sport comes on an integrated steel bracelet similar to those conceived by Gay Frères, who supplied many of Zenith’s metal bracelets in the past. A textured cordura-effect rubber strap option with a steel deployant buckle is also available.
The Chronomaster Sport line is equipped with a new version of the Manufacture’s most renowned movement, dubbed the El Primero 3600 calibre. With the experience gained after over five decades of the El Primero and high-frequency chronographs in general, Zenith is able to precisely offer a 1/10th of second display from the 5 Hz (36’000 VpH) escapement, as well as an extended power reserve of 60 hours.
Just released by Zenith is the brand new Chronomaster Sport, launching as a duo of ceramic bezel chronographs that feature the newly updated El Primero 3600 calibre. What we have with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is a luxury chronograph with an attractive mainstream design but a movement that will impress even the most jaded or seasoned watch enthusiast. Equipped with a modern version of its “Striking 10th” movement, which allows the user to measure time down to 1/10th of a second, the Chronomaster Sport leans into what makes the high-beat El Primero so special.As of late, the Zenith El Primero has been lacking options that land somewhere between the vintage-inspired Chronomaster Revival pieces and the highly contemporary, stylized Defy El Primero collection. Bearing a likeness to a distant cousin in the Rolex Daytona, these two debut Chronomaster Sport pieces are all Zenith once you take a closer look and appreciate the watchmaking prowess behind it. Though it draws inspiration from classic El Primeros, as well as the under-appreciated Zenith De Luca, the Chronomaster Sport does not go too far with the vintage theme, fortunately. Rather, we get an El Primero twist on the panda and reverse-panda dial chronograph with a new ceramic bezel and a thoroughly modern movement at a starting price right around $9,500.
The El Primero 3600 Calibre is not entirely 100% new, as a version of it was released (let’s call it a soft launch) in the limited-edition Chronomaster 2 El Primero Striking Tenth from 2019 (the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, in case you forgot), but it is now being rolled out as a standard production calibre after some refinements.
A little background first, in case you’re unfamiliar with the “Striking Tenth” AKA foudroyante parlance that dates back to about 2010 (though Zenith first patented it in 2002) with the introduction of the calibre 4052. The high-frequency precision of the 36,000 vph El Primero has always theoretically allowed for measurements of time down to 1/10th of a second, but the issue was always how to realistically measure such a small increment of time on a watch. For the 4052, Zenith used a 100-tooth silicon wheel that would accelerate the chronograph hand to complete a rotation in 10 seconds instead of 60. By doing this, the one-second mark is where the ten-second mark would be on an ordinary chronograph. If you’ll recall back in 2012, Felix Baumgartner broke the sound barrier in free-fall when he jumped 38,969.4 meters while wearing a Zenith Stratos Flyback Striking 10th that was outfitted with the 4052.
The El Primero 3600 Calibre operates at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) and has several upgrades and modifications from the well-used El Primero 400 calibre. There are actually fewer parts at 314 compared to 326, which is due to technological developments as well as the fact that Zenith has optimized and streamlined its manufacturing process so as to reduce the variety of jewels, screws, and other components that go into assembly. Some major features that are immediately of note are the addition of a hacking seconds, quick-set date function, and a longer power reserve of 60 hours, up from 50.
The lateral clutch and enlarged column wheel are updated from the El Primero 400, and Zenith did a magnificent job of creating an unobstructed view of these parts engaging with one another. The lateral clutch has a patented system with two intermediate wheels instead of just one, with the escapement wheel powering the chronograph. Also, all the wheels have been individually improved and optimized down to the tooth to ensure proper torque. With blued screws and a blued, fully exposed column wheel, the El Primero 3600 Calibre also has a new satin-finished star-shaped rotor. A horological icon of a movement, the new refinements and finishings make it truly worthy of an exhibition caseback (which is high praise from me).
The stainless steel case of the new Chronomaster Sport measures 41mm-wide, 13.6mm-thick, and has a lug-to-lug height of just around 46.2mm, according to my calipers. For the sake of comparison, the Rolex Daytona is 40mm-wide, 12.5mm-thick with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug height, and the new Omega Speedmaster Professional is 42mm-wide, 13.2mm-thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height. Available in either a black lacquer or white matte dial, the Chronomaster sport has 100M of water resistanceThe case is nicely finished with beveled edges that extend past the lugs and down the brushed end-links of the bracelet. The new ceramic bezel is really the focus of attention, and it is finished on par with peers and some pricier alternatives. According to Zenith, this is the first time a 1/10 of a second display has been etched onto a ceramic bezel, and I’m fairly certain this holds true.
Leaning into the high-frequency El Primero movement is exactly the right move from Zenith. I would venture to say that most people buy luxury chronographs for reasons that have nothing to do with the functionality of that complication in measuring hour-long+ increments of time, so why not show off in a way nobody else can? It really is a sight to see the chronograph hand do a lap around the dial in just 10 seconds, and once we can socialize in person again, I have a feeling this will be a neat party trick at the next Redbar meetup. (I did record this with the intention of creating a gif, but an unfortunate technical issue got in the way. Sorry!)
Each of the three counters is finished with a guilloché outer ring and center with nice, long lumed hands. In the past, I have found the overlap of counters on El Primeros to be too much like a Venn diagram, and thankfully, they just barely graze over one another here. The El Primero color scheme shakes things up from the typical panda/reverse-panda dial, with the running seconds at 6 o’clock in gray, 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock in a darker slate, and the 60-second counter at 3 o’clock in blue. Note that the two chronograph registers have red-tipped hands.
The few limited-edition pieces that used the early El Primero 3600 calibre had the date indicator at 6 o’clock, which has been moved to 4:30 now. The date window matches the respective dial color, and though the same parts are used, Zenith reworked and optimized the date-disk to allow for easier variety and customization. The chronograph pushers are nice and solid, which is something that anyone who has operated an El Primero is familiar with. The unique and quirky mechanism allows the nerdy appeal of the El Primero to truly shine. In a sea of luxury chronographs, it’s not easy to stand out, but there is wonder and child-like joy in seeing that central chronograph hand do a full rotation around the dial in 10 seconds.
The bracelet is quite nice, though I really hope a micro-adjust becomes a standard feature in watches at this price point. This is an integrated bracelet that takes some inspiration from the Gay Fréres bracelets but keeps the polished central links much closer together. I think going full-Fréres wouldn’t have made sense, as that’s more for the revival pieces. The brushed end-links have polished beveling, which is a nice touch. Finally, the Zenith star adorns the folding clasp.There is also a Cordura-effect rubber strap with steel deployant buckle option, though I only handled the bracelet models.
There are tons of luxury chronographs out there (Breitling comes to mind) but the new Speedy and the Daytona are top of mind. Starting with the former, right now there are over 400 Rolex Daytona 116500LN (with the ceramic bezel) pieces on Chrono24 and the cheapest s going for $25,799 with most well exceeding $30,000. Yes, that is both insane and inane. Honestly, even if you can get one for the $13,100 retail, I wouldn’t necessarily say the $3,000 premium over the Chronomaster Sport is a no-brainer.
As for the Speedy, here is how I see it: For any watch buyer with a love for space travel, the Omega Speedmaster is a category unto itself. Unfortunately, this still remains true for anyone whose passion for space travel tops off at “that’s pretty cool” and drops down to “hate.” ( I don’t know, maybe an astronaut rear-ended you. It’s a crazy world.) It’s fair to say that for anyone with basic knowledge of watches, or a regular watch blog reader when you buy a Speedmaster, you’re also buying space memorabilia. For someone like me, that feels inauthentic. And yes, I know the Speedy is an amazing watch quite apart from anything having to do with the moon, but the identities are far too tightly bonded for my taste.

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Longines Record watches

The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 Record The Longines Legend Diver Watch The Longines Heritage 1969 The Longines Heritage 1918 The Longines Heritage Military COSD The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 The Longines RailRoad Longines DolceVita
The Longines Record collection is their first collection of chronometers that are specifically designed for high-precision timekeeping. However, a more noteworthy aspect of this collection is that there is something for the ladies as well. The above Longines record review shows that the brand is serious about creating watches at great prices.
Chronometric performance is a subject we often don’t talk about when it comes to new watches. For the most part, we are only focused on the aesthetics and we tell ourselves that if we really want to know the precise time, we should stick to quartz watches or our phones (or smartwatches). That may be true, but I certainly won’t want to be wearing a watch, no matter how beautiful it is, if it’s unreliable with accuracy. As a result, I have a soft spot for watches that are chronometer-certified and one of the big new releases from Longines this year at Baselworld is the introduction of their first all COSC-certified collection called the Longines Record.
It is no secret by now that the Swiss watch industry is in a bit of a pickle. After an extended period of tremendous growth, exports have fallen considerably over the past two or so years. Watch brands are reacting to this in two main ways: a) give watch lovers and collectors what they want and b) offer more value for their money. Watch enthusiasts today love vintage-inspired watches, and as a result, Longines has given us recent hits like the Heritage 60th Anniversary watch and the Pulsometer chronograph. These two watches are prime examples of listening to buyers and giving them what they want.
On the other hand, the new Longines Record collection is an example of offering more bang for the buck. As most readers might know, getting certification from COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) costs money and that adds to the overall price of the watch. However, the good thing about a COSC certification is that it is a guarantee that the watch will run accurately. In case you have forgotten, to receive COSC certification, the movement within must meet an average daily rate of between -4 to +6 seconds a day. It must also meet criteria in other measurements such as mean variation in rate, greatest variation in rate, and rate variation due to temperature changes. Long story short, COSC certification ensures that you have a watch that won’t make you run late for your appointments.
The Longines Record collection is available in four sizes and in a variety of different dials. The four sizes available are 40mm, 38.5mm, 30mm, and 26mm, so there is something for everyone. The cases are all made out of stainless steel, have mostly polished surfaces, and have a very classic, elegant design. It is undoubtedly a very dressy piece. The cases are all water resistant to 30m and have sapphire display casebacks for owners to admire the movement.
The larger 40mm and 38.5mm models are powered by the Caliber L888.4 (ETA A31.L11), while the smaller 30mm and 26mm models are powered by the Longines Caliber L592.4 (ETA A20.L11). These movements are all manufactured by ETA (but exclusive to Longines) and sent to COSC for chronometer certification. It runs at 25,200vph and it has a power reserve of 64 hours – nearly three days. They are also decently finished with a generous application of perlage and a rotor that has Côtes de Genève and the skeletonized “wings” logo of Longines.
We didn’t manage to get our hands on all of the watches in the Record collection, but we did manage to try out a couple of them in 40mm, 38.5mm, and 30mm size. You can get the 40mm and 38.5mm Record watches with either a steel bracelet or an alligator strap. There are six dial options to choose from and they are as follows:
We got to see the white matte one as well as the silver one with a mixture of Arabic and triangular bar indices, and they are pretty sweet. The silver dial variant has an exquisite sunray finish and the sword-shaped hands, which are rhodium plated, are well-sized and highly legible. The decision to go with a mixture of both Arabic numerals and triangular bar indices is a good one as it prevents the dial from looking too sterile. Longines has also cleverly decided to give the dial minimal text, with only the Longines brand and logo at 12 o’clock and a simple “Automatic Chronometer” at 6 o’clock. My only complaint is that the date wheel should be in silver to match the dial.
The version with the matte white dial and Roman numeral hour indices is nice too. It looks much more elaborate than the silver dial version, likely due to the large Roman numerals. This version of the Longines Record also has sword-shaped hands, but instead of being rhodium-plated, they are blued steel. As a result, they provide a bright contrast against the pure white dial. The blued steel hands are really the highlight of the watch as they change hue depending on how light falls on them. They can appear as bright blue one moment and almost black the next. Another thing to note is that on this version, the color of the date window matches that of the dial almost perfectly, which, to my eyes at least, looks more harmonious. The steel bracelet has a mix of satin and mirror polishing and is comfortable on the wrist.
We got the chance to handle the smaller 30mm Longines Record too. The 30mm and 26mm variants were designed for women and have 8 different dial variants to choose from. On top of the six that I mentioned above, the 30mm and 28mm models also have an additional white mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indices. The 30mm and 28mm also have case variants that come set with diamonds.

The 30mm Record watch we handled was the variant with a sunray silver dial with baton indices. Obviously, it wears a lot smaller, but it also came off as a little disproportional as I found the case to be a little too thick relative to the width of the case. Even so, the decision by Longines to offer a 30mm (and 26mm) mechanical chronometer-certified watch for ladies is worth applauding.
Overall, I found the 38mm version of the Longines Record with the silver dial with Arabic and triangular bar indices to be the most pleasant. The size of the case, its thickness, and the dial look just right to me. It is neither too petite nor too big, and the dial has just the right amount of stuff such that it neither looks too dull or too cluttered.
Having said that, the rest of the Record collection watches are really enjoyable too. But more importantly, it is encouraging to see Longines offer thoughtfully designed watches with chronometric performance in mind. Even more impressive perhaps is that they have smaller variants that were designed with women in mind.

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Longines 1832

The Longines 1832 Proud of its origins, Longines is paying tribute to the year it was created with The Longines 1832. The models in this collection perfectly reflect the aesthetic codes of the brand, combining tradition, elegance and performance.
The Longines 1832 Moon Phase comes with a brown alligator strap and steel buckle, and a price of CHF 2,030. I’m pretty sure the 1832 Collection will fare well in the market. For more information, please visit www.longines.com. Article updated on 17 June, 2019.
Depending on the country, the Longines 1832 Moon Phase should already be in the shops – or just about to arrive. Following the announcement of a watch, it’s a good policy for a brand to follow through with a watch on the market. That’s a basic principle of sales planning, a lesson most company managers seem to have missed.
The 1832 Moonphase is yet another example of Longines’ terrific heritage design chops, and value proposition. Longines 1832 Moonphase (L4.826.4.92.2), $2825 AUD, available directly from Longines’ online store. Made in partnership with Longines. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
From the time Longines developed its first chronograph movement in 1878, the brand steadily built strong relationships with various sporting organizations, events and teams worldwide. First came horse racing, then additional equestrian sports – show jumping, endurance riding, and eventing (a “triathlon” of dressage, cross-country, jumping).
Longines 1832 Moonphase price Longines 1832 Moonphase (L4.826.4.92.2), $2825 AUD, available directly from Longines’ online store. Made in partnership with Longines. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
The Longines 1832 Moon Phase comes with a brown alligator strap and steel buckle, and a price of CHF 2,030. I’m pretty sure the 1832 Collection will fare well in the market. For more information, please visit https://www.perfectwrist.ru Longines was founded in Saint-Imier in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz, a Swiss watchmaker and brother of biologist Louis Agassiz. Auguste had two partners, lawyers Henri Raiguel and Florian Morel, and the company’s original name was Raiguel Jeune & Cie. By 1846, Raigeul and Morel had retired from the watch industry, leaving Agassiz as sole company head.
Compagnie des Montres Longines Francillon S.A., or simply Longines , is a Swiss luxury watchmaker based in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. Founded by Auguste Agassiz in 1832, the company has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group and its predecessors since 1983. Its winged hourglass logo, which was registered in 1889, is the oldest unchanged yet still active registered trademark.
Longines began using the slogan “Elegance is an Attitude” in 1999. Their previous slogan, “The World’s Most Honored Watch” was used for most of the 20th century.
The Longines Logo is the oldest registered trade mark still in use in its original form registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization.
Longines has been based at Saint-Imier in Switzerland since 1832. Its watchmaking expertise reflects a strong devotion to tradition, elegance and performance. Discover the history of the brand.

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Longines Evidenza

Longines first introduced the Evidenza line in 2003. It’s a classic dress watch that goes best with a suit for formal business events or visits to the opera or theater. An Evidenza stands out thanks to its tonneau case, which is a prominent feature of this line. It’s paired with a retro design reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties.
Longines Evidenza watches are best known for the shape of their case and their reputation for excellence. This series of Longines watches offers a variety of movements including automatic, automatic chronograph, power reserve indicator, day / date / month, and quartz movements. Longines Evidenza watches are manufactured in a wide variety of styles
Longines Longines evidenza Watches. Since the initial debut in 1832, Longines Watchmaking Company has been a true pillar of precision for a lot of watch enthusiasts around the globe. The Swiss watchmaker was established in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland by Auguste Agassiz. In the year 2003, Longines launched the Longines Evidenza watch
The Longines Evidenza watch will appeal to those who want a rectangular shaped watch that is a little different, though of classic design and elegance. Its design makes it an ideal dress watch for both ladies and gentlemen and is certainly one of the more distinctive collections of Longines watches.
Longines Longines evidenza Watches. The Longines Evidenza collection is a gorgeous range of watches that shows the very greatest of what this legendary Swiss company represents. Essentially quality, creativity and real tradition. Certainly, those who don a Longines Heritage watch are sure to be looked upon as people of ability and culture.
Swiss watch company Longines likes to associate the likes of late actors Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn with its new line of watches, the Longines Evidenza, due to its Art Deco look and shape that call to mind the stylishness of many of their movies. But you have to wonder if notoriously hard-boiled Bogie would have approved of the Evidenza men’s stainless-steel chronograph with black dial