For 2022, Breitling has redesigned its iconic Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch, which for decades has been a staple of high-end tool timepieces originally designed for commercial airline pilots in the early 1950s. The Navitimer has seen countless iterations over the years and is one of the world’s most recognized luxury sports watches. It has not, however, experienced a recent makeover under Breitling’s current stewardship by Georges Kern. The updated Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch for 2022 is known officially as the Navitimer B01 Chronograph and comes in three case sizes with a variety of different dial options, many of which have never been offered in a Navitimer watch before. The aBlogtoWatch team was able to go hands-on with all of the new Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches and below is our take on this modern version of a timeless classic. For me, the Navitimer has always been a staple of tool watches because of its focus on computational utility. Its core design element is a slide-rule bezel that once allowed pilots to make various necessary calculations such as time to their destination or fuel consumption rate. The rotating slide-rule bezel mixed with the chronograph offered a small universe of capabilities. Only the smartest and most competent pilots would be seen wearing such a wrist instrument, and the legacy of the learned aviation professional lives on in this decidedly Breitling brand watch. With a design DNA that was perfected long ago, according to many timepiece enthusiasts, what was Breitling able to do with a modern Navitimer that hasn’t been done before? It is important to mention some useful context at play when Breitling designed the new Navitimer. First of all, it was the brand’s goal to make the Navitimer look and feel as pleasant as possible while fitting into contemporary trends in luxury timepieces. That means the watches also need variety and be able to appeal to multiple audience sizes and color preferences. While the slide rule feature is truly iconic, few Navitimer customers are known to actually use this piece of functionality, which means the feature needs to be there but Breitling doesn’t really talk about it much. In fact, Breitling has a series of prototype Navitimer watches with more water resistance (hard to accomplish with the bezel functioning as it does). None of those ever made it to market because the resulting watch cases don’t really look “Navitimer enough.” So, Breitling’s goal with the redesigned Navitimer is mainly two-fold: to create a commercially successful luxury watch that fits into Breitling’s “relaxed luxury lifestyle” brand personality, and to offer a product that looks and feels like the classic Navitimer enthusiasts love. Note that to make the dial a bit cleaner, this generation of Navitimer Chronograph watch dials do not have a tachymeter scale, and I don’t think a single person will really miss it. It was also important that Breitling get to feature its extremely competent in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movement but also to make the Navitimer case thinner. Older Navitimer watches are thinner, but they are also manually wound (versus automatic). The 2022 Navitimer watches are about 1.5mm thinner than previous-generation models, and they also feature an exhibition caseback. The case thinness (they are all about 13.6-14mm-thick, depending on the version) is thanks to a redesign of the slide-rule bezel system, which is now flat instead of sloped, as was the case on previous models. The dial doesn’t appear flat, however, thanks to the recessed subdials. Many people will not notice, at first glance, the different architecture of the Navitimer dial, but it is very apparent once you start to inspect it or compare it to other recent Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch. Breitling decided to go very commercial with the dials in terms of colors and finishing. That’s a business decision that probably makes sense, but purists will probably still be more attracted to some of the more historic-looking recent Navitimer watches that have more of a “tool watch” look. The various metallic colors and copious reflective surfaces test well with luxury seekers but make the new Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches quite “blingy” when compared with the classic models. Adding to that look are new colors, including two different greens (one is a fun mint), two blues, and a variety of grays, whites, and black tones mixed together. There are even 18k red-gold case options in addition to the main steel-cased versions to offer an even more high-end feel. The dials are very nice, but I prefer a more matte style to watches with this level of dial detail, and for the snazzier shiny look, I am still very much taken by Breitling’s Chronomat 42 masterpieces. For me, the most jarring aspect of the new Navitimer B01 Chronograph case design is the polishing. While not always true, most recent Navitimer watches have had all-polished cases — really nice polished cases. For 2022, Breitling goes a different route by maintaining the core Navitimer case style but offering both polished and brushed surface finishing over the case and the available bracelet. This adds a lot of visual interest to the case and bracelet, but the dual-finishing of the 2022 Navitimer watches do make them stand out from the rest of the modern versions of the watch and will probably help them stand out to customers who have previous-generation Navitimer models. On the dial, we see a return to the AOPA Breitling “wings” logo, which has been used on some retro-remake models but no standard collection pieces, until now. Breitling CEO Georges Kern presided over the Navitimer B01 Chronograph launch event and explained something very interesting about the brand’s logos. The problem is that none of the current logos work with all of the watches. Some logos appear better on the modern watches but not the classic ones. Some of the watches have just a Breitling “B,” and others have mere graphic logos. It is great that Breitling has so much history to pull from to make this possible, but it is also interesting that the brand’s current logos don’t actually work well on all watches. Breitling isn’t the only watch brand now to play with different logo designs on contemporary watches but probably has the best reasons to use multiple logos across product collections. To serve the needs of various customers (including women), Breitling made the correct decision to offer what is essentially the same watch in three different case sizes. It is true that some dial color configurations are only available in some sizes, but for the most part, Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch makes sure that the 41, 43, and 46mm-wide Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches are more or less the same in terms of style and look. Having worn all three sizes, I would say that my personal preference is the 43mm wide version, but I would gladly wear any of them. The cases are water-resistant to 30 meters, and 13.6, 13.69, and 13.95mm thick, respectively. Watch size is a matter of taste and not a matter of correctness. So the correct size for you will depend on your anatomy and, to a degree, the watch dial colors that you prefer. Breitling’s B01 automatic chronograph movement powers each of these watches and, for the first time in a Navitimer Chronograph piece, you can see the very nice movement through an exhibition caseback. This was designed by former Rolex engineers who worked on the chronograph movement inside the Daytona and is very accurate. Each is a COSC-certified Chronometer and operates at 4Hz with 70 hours of power reserve. The watch features the time and date (integrated into the lower subdial), as well as the 12-hour chronograph. All of the watches are available on a brown or black alligator strap, or a matching seven-link metal bracelet (steel or gold depending on the version). The bracelet option (in steel) costs just $400 more and also features a new butterfly-style deployant clasp, a serious upgrade from the previous fold-over deployant clasps.
Category: Breitling Watch
Replica Breitling Avenger Chronograph GMT 45
When I think of Breitling, I usually think of the Avenger series or the Superocean, and even though these days the trend has been towards smaller watches, I think this Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 is so iconic and a great watch regardless of the size. Now it’s true that I used to own a Breitling Avenger Seawolf and yes I did end up selling that watch. Why you ask? Because of the size. That’s really a long story for another day, but basically, I had always wanted one and by the time I got one, I really wasn’t into big watches like that anymore. Still, I don’t regret owning it for the time I had it and even though this Avenger chrono is still a large watch, it is not as thick as the Seawolf and there are a few other differences as well, that would make it more daily-able-at least for me.
This watch comes to me from Saltzman’s Watches of Newport, who graciously loaned this watch to me for review. They are of course an Authorized Dealer and if you are interested in this watch or others that they carry, just shoot them a phone call or email, tell them you saw this review and what watch you are interested in. All their info will be in the specifications below.
The Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 has that famous rider tab bezel Breitling is known for, in this case, a beautiful matte blue dial with a white gold wing logo, and overall there is no mistaking this watch for any other. I mentioned in the video how the Avenger lineup doesn’t change that much over time, if you saw one of these models from 10 years ago, while there are some differences, you can easily tell they are the same model. But the more I thought about it, the more I realized that is a good thing. Breitling is a brand that is not copied often, unlike Rolex, Bell and Ross, Omega, Audemars Piquet, and many others. Hell Maurice Lacroix, a bigger named brand in their own right kinda ripped off AP with their latest models, but look around at all the different brands, all the different micro brands and you really will not see watches that look like Breitling.
Now people can argue why that is, but one thing is for sure when you wear a Breitling, you aren’t really going to have to worry about people mistaking it for anything else. When I was talking to Saltzman’s and setting up reviewing some watches for them, they gave me a few options for the initial review. I took one look at this blue dial model and knew I wanted to review this one. I hope to review a few different brands that they carry moving forward, but I wanted to start with a brand I love and a model I was somewhat familiar with.
Yes, I have talked about this many times, but before I knew what a watch enthusiast or a WIS was, I was enamored with Breitling from a young age. Whether it was a billboard or a watch magazine, or even just an ad in a non-watch magazine, Breitling always captured my inner watch nerd more than any other brand. I have no issue stating that in the last 30 years my tastes have absolutely changed and big massive watches just are not my thing anymore, but I still love most of what the brand puts out, even though I may not want to wear it myself.
The 45mm case on this Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 is brushed on the top and the sides, very different from my Seawolf which had a lot of high polish going on, and while this is still very thick at almost 17mm in height, it doesn’t wear like a brick on my wrist, it wears flatter and does wrap around my wrist a little better than I thought it would. Of course with it being the Avenger, you have that familiar knurled screw-down crown and being a chronograph, large easy-to-use pushers, that are not just functional, but beautiful as well.
That rider tab bezel is fully polished on the sides, with a combo of brushed and polished on top, and is just always a joy to turn, but yes, this being a stainless steel bezel, and a lot of mirror polishing going, it is going to get scratched. Nothing you can do about it, same with a Doxa as an example. And this is an expensive watch at $5,500, no doubt about it, but watches are meant to be worn, and I have seen versions of this watch really well worn and used, and I still think they look good even with all the scratches, but that’s just me. A massive lume pip sits at the top of the bezel, ready to be seen in the dark.
The blue dial of this Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 is actually pretty clean for what it is, and I love the yellow accents against that muted blue dial. As I stated earlier, that wing logo is actually white gold, not just some chrome-finished steel, and even though it’s not something you can touch or really feel, there is just something about it being made of a precious metal that I appreciate. The indices are applied, big thick rectangles with strips of lume sandwiched between them, and a pretty traditional setup for a 7750 Chronograph (which is what this movement is based on) and the date located at the 3. Nothing revolutionary here of course, but a good-looking dial.
Above the dial though, is the cambered sapphire crystal, and it’s a beautiful crystal and the blue AR coating does look good but my problem with Breitling and a few others are the outer AR coating. Breitling uses both inner and outer AR coatings and they just aren’t as scratch-resistant as the sapphire itself. It can be removed by someone who is qualified (not many are surprisingly) and it can be reapplied by Breitling or a Breitling service center, but it is one thing I wish that Breitling would make optional and not standard.
When it comes to the case back, this may be one of the few times that I wish I could see the movement. While the Breitling 13 is a COSC-certified movement, it probably isn’t overlay decorated, most likely just a custom signed rotor, but this very plain engraved case back is not what I was expecting, especially on a watch that costs almost $6,000. Maybe I am being picky, but I was hoping for at least a stamped wing logo on the back.
The Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 comes on a choice of a few straps. This sample was sent to me on a blue canvas with a yellow leather backing, and it is a very nice strap in my opinion. I love both the way it looks and feels and that yellow leather is just eye-catching. This version of the strap has a tang buckle but you can get a push-button deployant buckle as well as a Breitling bracelet and of course, the price goes up with each upgrade that you do. With a weight of 157 grams, you would think a strap would not balance the watch out at all, but it really does, and I think it felt very comfortable on my 7 1/2 inch wrist. Yes, this is a 55mm lug to lug, and yes it is a heavy piece, but somehow it does work on my wrist, though I still don’t know if I would want to rock this daily, after a few days of wearing it, who knows, maybe I could get used to it again.
Unfotunbaly I was not able to wear this piece like I normally would and I did test the lume, but not as I would normally, which would be wearing it in many different dark situations, one of them being to bed. The lume is bright though and it will easily last quite a few hours, about 5 or so, if not more, and this piece just looks really good in the dark.
I am glad I had a chance to review this piece and even though it is not the latest model from Breitling, I still think these are great-looking pieces and can easily understand why someone would want this in their collection. My tastes probably would lean more towards a Superocean these days, I love the look of the new ones and the 42mm model is one I could see me wearing daily, if not even being one that stays on the wrist a lot more than others, but there is something about this big and bold Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45, especially in this blue. There are other colors available and if you want to see more, please check out Saltzman’s, as they carry a lot of Breitling models, amongst other brands, and even if you are not interested in purchasing this piece, give their website a look, it would be appreciated.
As for this model, Breitling will always have a special place in my heart, no matter the model, and even though l love some more than others, the Avenger series is a staple in the Breitling lineup for a reason and I don’t see it going anywhere anytime soon.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 AB01381B1G1
For 2022, Breitling has redesigned its iconic Navitimer Chronograph watch, which for decades has been a staple of high-end tool timepieces originally designed for commercial airline pilots in the early 1950s. The Navitimer has seen countless iterations over the years and is one of the world’s most recognized luxury sports watches. It has not, however, experienced a recent makeover under Breitling’s current stewardship by Georges Kern. The updated Breitling Navitimer for 2022 is known officially as the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches and comes in three case sizes with a variety of different dial options, many of which have never been offered in a Navitimer watch before. The aBlogtoWatch team was able to go hands-on with all of the new Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches and below is our take on this modern version of a timeless classic.
For me, the Navitimer has always been a staple of tool watches because of its focus on computational utility. Its core design element is a slide-rule bezel that once allowed pilots to make various necessary calculations such as time to their destination or fuel consumption rate. The rotating slide-rule bezel mixed with the chronograph offered a small universe of capabilities. Only the smartest and most competent pilots would be seen wearing such a wrist instrument, and the legacy of the learned aviation professional lives on in this decidedly Breitling brand watch. With a design DNA that was perfected long ago, according to many timepiece enthusiasts, what was Breitling able to do with a modern Navitimer that hasn’t been done before?
It is important to mention some useful context at play when Breitling designed the new Navitimer. First of all, it was the brand’s goal to make the Navitimer look and feel as pleasant as possible while fitting into contemporary trends in luxury timepieces. That means the watches also need variety and be able to appeal to multiple audience sizes and color preferences. While the slide rule feature is truly iconic, few Navitimer customers are known to actually use this piece of functionality, which means the feature needs to be there but Breitling doesn’t really talk about it much. In fact, Breitling has a series of prototype Navitimer watches with more water resistance (hard to accomplish with the bezel functioning as it does). None of those ever made it to market because the resulting watch cases don’t really look “Navitimer enough.” So, Breitling’s goal with the redesigned Navitimer is mainly two-fold: to create a commercially successful luxury watch that fits into Breitling’s “relaxed luxury lifestyle” brand personality, and to offer a product that looks and feels like the classic Navitimer enthusiasts love. Note that to make the dial a bit cleaner, this generation of Navitimer Chronograph watch dials do not have a tachymeter scale, and I don’t think a single person will really miss it.
It was also important that Breitling get to feature its extremely competent in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movement but also to make the Navitimer case thinner. Older Navitimer watches are thinner, but they are also manually wound (versus automatic). The 2022 Navitimer watches are about 1.5mm thinner than previous-generation models, and they also feature an exhibition caseback. The case thinness (they are all about 13.6-14mm-thick, depending on the version) is thanks to a redesign of the slide-rule bezel system, which is now flat instead of sloped, as was the case on previous models. The dial doesn’t appear flat, however, thanks to the recessed subdials. Many people will not notice, at first glance, the different architecture of the Navitimer dial, but it is very apparent once you start to inspect it or compare it to other recent Navitimer Chronograph watches.
Breitling decided to go very commercial with the dials in terms of colors and finishing. That’s a business decision that probably makes sense, but purists will probably still be more attracted to some of the more historic-looking recent Navitimer watches that have more of a “tool watch” look. The various metallic colors and copious reflective surfaces test well with luxury seekers but make the new Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches quite “blingy” when compared with the classic models. Adding to that look are new colors, including two different greens (one is a fun mint), two blues, and a variety of grays, whites, and black tones mixed together. There are even 18k red-gold case options in addition to the main steel-cased versions to offer an even more high-end feel. The dials are very nice, but I prefer a more matte style to watches with this level of dial detail, and for the snazzier shiny look, I am still very much taken by Breitling’s Chronomat 42 masterpieces.For me, the most jarring aspect of the new Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches case design is the polishing. While not always true, most recent Navitimer watches have had all-polished cases — really nice polished cases. For 2022, Breitling goes a different route by maintaining the core Navitimer case style but offering both polished and brushed surface finishing over the case and the available bracelet. This adds a lot of visual interest to the case and bracelet, but the dual-finishing of the 2022 Navitimer watches do make them stand out from the rest of the modern versions of the watch and will probably help them stand out to customers who have previous-generation Navitimer models.
On the dial, we see a return to the AOPA Breitling “wings” logo, which has been used on some retro-remake models but no standard collection pieces, until now. Breitling CEO Georges Kern presided over the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches launch event and explained something very interesting about the brand’s logos. The problem is that none of the current logos work with all of the watches. Some logos appear better on the modern watches but not the classic ones. Some of the watches have just a Breitling “B,” and others have mere graphic logos. It is great that Breitling has so much history to pull from to make this possible, but it is also interesting that the brand’s current logos don’t actually work well on all watches. Breitling isn’t the only watch brand now to play with different logo designs on contemporary watches but probably has the best reasons to use multiple logos across product collections.
To serve the needs of various customers (including women), Breitling made the correct decision to offer what is essentially the same watch in three different case sizes. It is true that some dial color configurations are only available in some sizes, but for the most part, Breitling makes sure that the 41, 43, and 46mm-wide Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph watches are more or less the same in terms of style and look. Having worn all three sizes, I would say that my personal preference is the 43mm wide version, but I would gladly wear any of them. The cases are water-resistant to 30 meters, and 13.6, 13.69, and 13.95mm thick, respectively. Watch size is a matter of taste and not a matter of correctness. So the correct size for you will depend on your anatomy and, to a degree, the watch dial colors that you prefer.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747
Breitling is celebrating the mighty Boeing 747 with a limited-edition Navitimer honoring the jet’s game-changing legacy in air travel.
As the last of the airliners exits Boeing’s production line, the Swiss luxury watchmaker is celebrating the “Queen of the Skies” impact. The original plane, which first taxied on the runway in 1969, included two aisles and two decks, with the ability to carry double the passengers of competing jets and fly more than 5,000 nautical miles.
Today, as Boeing prepares to release its last 747, Breitling is celebrating the revolutionary jet with exactly 747 special-edition watches, dubbed the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747.
“What better way to remember a revolutionary jumbo jet than with a revolutionary pilot’s chronograph,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 brought style to the skies, just as the Navitimer brought the spirit of aviation to style-savvy watch enthusiasts.”
The new Navitimer Boeing 747’s dial mimics the aircraft’s color palette, with a cream center, black subdials and a red-and-white slide rule with blue accents. The AOPA logo reminds wearers of the watch’s heritage as a pilot’s timekeeper, while subtle “Boeing 747” iconography appears on the slide rule’s inner scale. The timepiece’s open caseback, engraved with “One of 747,” showcases the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which provides roughly 70 hours of power reserve.
Watch lovers who know Breitling know too that flying—more than any activity—is closest to its heart. Generations have been drawn to its functional tool watches that were technical leaps forward in navigation for military, commercial, and private pilots alike. And then, for the rest of us, there’s the romance of flight, an impulse that sucks in pretty much everyone who has ever flown anywhere, one way or another. And most of us will have done it at least once in a Boeing 747, an iconic aircraft that is inspiring Breitling at a significant moment for the old bird.
A collectible and timely new take on the classic Breitling Navitimer, out this week, pays affectionate homage to the famed Queen of the Skies, which made its debut flight in 1969, meaning the 747 has been active in an astounding seven different decades. That long production history comes to a close, however, on January 31, when Boeing is scheduled to deliver its last ever 747, the 1,574th Jumbo to take to the skies.
Everyone—of course—loves a Jumbo. But it wasn’t always guaranteed that the first wide-body, long-range jet would be so popular with or familiar to air travelers. The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 was at first developed exclusively as a cargo jet, and it would never have been adapted for passengers at all were it not for the abandonment of America’s costly SST aircraft program in the early 1970s. That distinctive bump you can see in the 747’s profile was a leftover from attempts to design a cargo bird that could be loaded easily and quickly from the front. When the plans shifted to include passengers, the bump—and the extra space it afforded behind the raised cockpit—gave Pan Am’s then-CEO Juan Trippe an idea. Aviation’s first mid-air lounge was born in all its funky ’70s finery (for first class passengers only, of course).
The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 comes in a single edition of (you guessed it!) 747 pieces. Inside, the watch is powered by Breitling’s own in-house BR01 movement offering an impressive 70 hours of power reserve and chronometer certification. Outside, the colors match the original prototype 747 from ‘69, which had a livery of white, red, and bare metal. You don’t, however, need to be a plane spotter to appreciate Breitling’s 747 watch. The design, which features an off-white dial, three black sub-dials, and a red inner ring around the dial (where the name Boeing 747 is discreetly added), manages to nod to that first 747 while creating a fresh new take on the iconic Navitimer.
Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40
Breitling’s Chronomat was relaunched in 2020 and quickly became one of the most integral parts of the Breitling brand. From the brand’s large 44mm chronograph offerings down to the small 32mm ladies’ models, Breitling has built up a solid lineup of Chronomats to choose from. But the collection has always jumped from 42mm to 36mm with nothing in between. That is, until today. The new Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 fills a gap in the collection in more ways than one. First, it brings a more reasonable size with a new 40mm diameter, 11.77mm thick, 47.4mm lug-to-lug stainless steel watch. You get all the standard Chronomat styling, including the classic “onion” crown and rouleaux bracelet, along with 200m water resistance worthy of a sports watch you can take from the air to the sea with ease. The second new addition is the inclusion of Breitling’s Caliber 32 GMT movement, a “caller” with an independently set GMT hand that was previously built off the workhorse ETA 2893-2 movement, plus added refinements and finishing. Previously, the Chronomat lineup featured only three-hand watches and giant chronographs, but no longer. The Caliber 32 movement provides approximately 42 hours of power reserve to fuel the GMT, hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions on the watch. Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 comes in five color options: black, blue, green, white, and anthracite. Each of these dials features a “tone-on-tone” 24-hour scale, matching the dial to the rehaut instead of going for a multi-color bezel. Breitling believes this increases legibility, letting the red GMT stand out.
I’ve had mixed feelings in the past about Breitling’s Chronomats. While apparently sales hits for the brand, the chronographs always wore too large to me. The vintage Chronomats, a kind of cult classic, often feel a bit “janky” for lack of a better term, from the bracelet to the bezels. All that made me unable to separate the vintage and very anachronistic vibe of the watches – especially the rouleaux bracelet and crown – from the modernized direction Breitling was taking the collection. Here, we see that new direction in full force: elegance, comfort, and sportiness, with good build quality in a design language that is quintessentially Breitling. And to top it off, a competitive price point I expect we will see more of in the future.
Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised – of course, there would be improvements over time and these modern bracelets would have better tolerances and less flex – but the first thing I noticed was how well the watch wore, from the comfortable bracelet to the slimmed-down and more wearable case. There’s a reason so many Rolex GMT-Master II owners have embraced jubilee bracelets over the “classic” oyster bracelet. In the same way, the shorter distance between links allows the bracelet to wrap well around your wrist.
I’m a bracelet geek but I’d imagine that the sunray-esque dials will be the stars of the show for most potential buyers. The iridescent sheen, especially the blue and green, is captivating (and, if you’re buying watches and hoping to photograph them, frustratingly reflective). The blue dial goes very deep blue, almost black in a darkened environment, and then pops to life with any splash of light. No matter the locale, the green is dramatic and eye-catching. The sleeper hit might be the anthracite grey dial, which blends in well with the case and picks up a bit of warmth and brown tones from the light in an environment.
The white and black dials didn’t get much mention (or photo time, apologies) because while solid options, the comparatively matte finish didn’t garner as much attention from me in my short time, hands-on.
The simplified placement of the 24-hour markers on the rehaut is a nice touch. For all the good a GMT does, I don’t find a big difference in my day-to-day life between catching the time at a glance and spending five seconds looking more closely for a second time zone. And not that the general population takes issue with wearing sport watches in more formal environments, but the lack of bulky bezel with any colors or numbers adds a certain level of elegance. There’s not a ton to say about the movement, based on the ETA 2893-2, which is pretty standard across the industry. I will say, the more I actively review GMTs and pay attention to specifications, the more it surprises me that there aren’t more “flyer” GMT movements on the market. With the introduction of the ETA caliber C07.661 and Miyota 9075, I’m hopeful we’ll see more brands switch away from the 2893-2 in future iterations. That said, this is pretty standard and should be reliable, albeit with a 42 hour power reserve that might be a point of contention for some buyers.
All of this feels like a very cognizant and measured decision from Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40, taking the opportunity to highlight a collection with one of the purest throughlines of modern Breitling DNA with a new option that is both eye-catching and even more wearable and versatile than before. While it might not unseat the most in-demand GMT offerings on the market, it does give another great option that can stand on its own merits and at a price (under $6,000) that is really very competitive for the finishing.
Breitling Endurance Pro Premiers de Cordée
I wasn’t particularly kind to the new Breitling Endurance Pro in our New Watch Alert. Like all the watches in the NWA, I passed judgement sight unseen. But I am nothing if not a fair man. So I hightailed it down to a local dealer to spend some quality time with a Pro. (Thanks Ben!) My conclusion: it’s a really expensive quartz watch. But it’s also . . .Thanks to its thermo-compensated COSC-certified Caliber 82 SuperQuartz movement, the Breitling Endurance Pro will keep time to the tune of ±10 seconds-per-year. That puts it ahead of the pack, but behind the ±5 seconds-per-year $1350 Longines V.H.P. and $3800 Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Quartz. Close enough for rock and roll? Yes! Unless you’re looking for temporal bragging rights. For a $3k watch, I’m thinking that’s a thing. Fortunately, the Breitling has a few other tricks up its horological sleeve. Specifically, its weight. Or lack thereof.
The Breitling Endurance Pro is not for those who worry about the unbearable lightness of being – it weighs just 65 grams dripping wet.
The 65g carbon fiber Formex Leggera and 55 gram titanium OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra-Light are “proper” mechanical watches that are as light or lighter than the Endurance Pro. The OMEGA costs $48,600. The Formex clocks in at $1650. So there is that.
Credit the 44mm Endurance’s quartz movement and Breitlight case for the watch’s lack of heavy. Breitling’s carbon composite is 3.3 times lighter than titanium, 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel, non-magnetic, thermally stable, hypoallergenic and “highly resistant” to scratches, traction and corrosion.And it makes the watch feel like a plastic toy. The Endurance Pro’s orange strap, second hand, crown guard, pusher tips and interior bezel do nothing to counter that impression, and much to enhance it.
Running the chrono dispels at least some of the frivolity. Press the Endurance Pro’s pusher – the action is sharp and precise. The orange second hand slams through the seconds, the right hand subdial goes nuts, spinning once a second, and the top left subdial counts the minutes.The bottom subdial also counts the seconds. Blame the redundancy on the bright orange pulsometer chapter ring, included to position the Endurance Pro as “the ultimate athleisure watch.”
In other words, Breitling’s marketing mavens are targeting well-heeled exercise junkies who don’t measure their heart rate with a smartwatch. Both of them.C’mon man! We all know the Endurance Pro is a fashion statement. Thirty minute timer? Crayola colors? If that doesn’t identify the Pro as a tool watch for pulse-quickening S&M (standing and modelling), what about the bezel compass?
The Breitling Endurance Pro bi-directional bezel compass is beautifully rendered; it glides around the dial like a curling stone on fresh ice. That said, if you’re lost in the northern hemisphere in a non-tropical wilderness and need to head in a particular direction, any watch will do.
To use your Breitling Endurance Pro watch as an approximate compass outside of the tropics in the northern hemisphere, hold the watch horizontal and point the hour hand at the sun. Half way between that point and the twelve o’clock mark on your watch points to the south.
The Truth About Sundials! Anyway, the Breitling Endurance Pro’s dial is a dog’s breakfast.Some bright spark decreed that the 12, 3, 6 and 9 indices had to be REALLY BIG and decided “we don’t need no stinkin’ 12! Put the Breitling logo there.”
Then the subdial monsters took a big bite out of the 3 and 6 (rendering them semi-legible) and pretty much devoured the 6. The same creatures all but eliminated the 2 and 10. Only six numerals made it through the attack.
Just for fun, there’s “ENDURANCE” below the dial’s midpoint on the left, bang opposite “CHRONOMETER.” It’s no surprise the date window’s retreated to a relatively quiet corner between the 4 and 5.I love the Breitling Endurance Pro’s featherweight fighting weight, revel in its durability, worship its amazing accuracy and smile at its technicolor dreamcoat (also available in yellow, blue, red and black).
But the Pro’s premium price and busy AF dial are genuine deal killers. Sometimes first impressions last.
Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Steel Yellow
Breitling’s legendary sea watch is reinvented in the new Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection as it debuts a pared-down aesthetic reminiscent of the original Superocean Slow Motion from the 1960’s and 70’s. The release offers an abundance of choice, with four case sizes (46mm, 44mm, 42mm and 36mm), three case metals and two strap options to choose from.
The history of the Breitling Superocean began in the 1950’s when the demand for high-performance dive watches was at an all time high. In 1957, the Swiss watch manufacturer launched two diving watches, a time-only piece and a chronograph, both named the Breitling Superocean. Their 200m water resistant cases, concave bezels and oversized markers offered everything professional and amateur divers needed for underwater exploration. By the mid 1960’s, Willy Breitling decided he wanted to improve the performance of the Superocean, focusing on the easy and safe reading of diving duration. The minute recorder is typically small for effortless reading under the water and so instead, Breitling developed a calibre where the main chronograph hand would indicate the elapsed dive time. Housing this calibre was the Breitling Superocean Slow Motion watch. With its instantly legible dial, thick minutes track and ratcheted bezel, it became an essential tool for divers.
It is the original Breitling Superocean Slow Motion watch that inspires the new 2022 collection launched today. It revives the statement minutes track and thin ceramic bezel inlay complemented by a new metal rehaut and similar shaped hands and indexes for easy legibility. Adding to the retro aesthetic is several modern features including a bright palette of colour found on the dials, a choice of three case metals and a newly designed black rubber strap with two-toned texture. There’s also the introduction of a new folding buckle with micro-adjustment and a special Breitling Superocean 2022 Limited Edition designed in collaboration with brand ambassador Kelly Slater. To help you find which new Breitling Superocean watch is for you, here’s a full run down of the 2022 collection…
Next up in the Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection is a range of 42mm models. In this range, we’re treated to three different case metals including three stainless steel models, a single two-toned steel and gold piece and a rare bronze edition. The three steel references are available with black, blue or white dials, the former offering a matching black bezel while the latter opt for blue ceramic inserts. The black and blue dials maintain the same silvered hardware with Superluminova while the white dial opts for blue outlines for the hands and indexes. We’re offered the same 300m water resistance, sapphire crystal glass, unidirectional bezel and Breitling Calibre 17 movement.
For the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 watch in steel and gold, the main component of the 42mm case is engineered from stainless steel while the ratcheted exterior of the bezel and screw in crown are finished in 18ct gold. The bezel is done in black and matches the rest of the aesthetic with a gold-coloured 60 minute scale. The dial also follows suit with a black display and golden hardware. This model is completed by a single black textured rubber strap. Lastly, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Bronze watch is one of our favourites out of the entire Breitling Superocean 2022 collection. It pairs the utilitarian khaki-green dial and bezel of the 44mm model with a patina-pending bronze case. All the spec stays the same other than the strap which is done in green rubber and secured by a bronze folding clasp with micro-adjustment.
The only limited edition in the Breitling Superocean 2022 watch collection is this bold orange-dialled model which has been designed in collaboration with Breitling brand ambassador Kelly Slater. Part of Breitling’s Surfer Squad, Kelly Slater is known for being the most successful surfers of all time as well as the co-founder of the sustainable apparel manufacturer Outerknown. Breitling supported this sustainable venture with their own range of Breitling Outerknown watches back in 2018. Now the pair collaborate again, this time with the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater Limited Edition watch. The design follows closely in the footsteps of the 42mm counterparts above with a 42mm stainless steel case, black ceramic insert unidirectional rotating bezel, screw in crown, sapphire crystal glass and 300m water resistant rating. It is also powered by the Breitling Calibre 17 chronometer movement and secures to the wrist by a black rubber strap. The real difference in the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater Limited Edition watch is its dial which is dressed in a bold orange hue, a colour famous for its legibility in diving conditions. It pairs the orange backdrop with Superluminova markers and hands and a unique green-tipped seconds hand. The case back is also engraved with its limited edition number out of 1000 pieces.
Breitling Avenger Chronograph GMT 45 Stainless Steel
One of the Breitling new references launched in Los Angeles was this duo of GMT watches, the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 replica (reference A32395101C1A1 or A32395101C1X1 / A32395101C1X2) and the related Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission replica (reference V32395101B1X1 / V32395101B1X2).
As GMT watches, these are good looking timepieces, Breitling Avenger watch replica V32395101B1X2 has a black dial and is delivered on a sand-colored leather military strap with a pin or folding buckle. The red GMT hands on both the blue-dialed standard steel version and the military-style Night Mission are extremely easy to read and not easily confused with the hour or minute hand. Its hands and indexes are coated with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in all lighting conditions. The 24-hour scale, on the other hand, is a bit tiny and will require good eyes. This does mean that the uni-directional rotating bezel can still be used for a 60-minute timer — which, honestly, is rare for GMT watches of this pedigree.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission fake has a 45 mm case made of strong but lightweight DLC-coated titanium. The Arabic numerals were inspired by the numbers stenciled on the decks of aircraft carriers, thanks to the wide lugs. Given the width, they feel thin at just 12.3mm-thick, and the cases are water resistant to 30 meters with an AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial.
Inside the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches replica, Breitling uses a sourced Swiss movement (base ETA 2893, I believe), which they call their Caliber 32 movement. It operates at 4Hz with about 42 hours of power reserve and also features the date, in addition to the time and 24-hour GMT hand for a second time zone display. Breitling has each of the movements COSC-Chronometer certified.
Wow, that’s hot! Show up wearing the Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission, and that’s how you’ll be greeted. This chronograph is one of 14 models presented in fall 2019 as the reinvigorated and streamlined Avenger collection, including four watches that replace the former Colt collection.
Such enthusiasm for our test watch! It’s no doubt because of its sporty, striking design with a military green dial and strap as well as its dark coated case, which gave the watch its “Night Mission” name. Everything about it exudes strength and robustness: the wide stepped bezel, the sturdy ringed chronograph pushers, the large screw-down crown with crown guard, the striking hour markers and the calfskin strap with an industrial-looking embossed pattern. Size alone is not the determining factor in making its powerful impression – even though the watch measures 45 mm across and a strapping 16.5 mm in height, neither dimension is really all that noticeable and surprisingly, the wearing comfort is still great. With its smooth underside, supple leather strap and flat buckle, the watch fits snugly on the wrist. Of course, the light 120-gram weight also plays a role, thanks to Breitling’s use of titanium.
All in all, the test confirmed our first impression. Breitling has created a sturdy sports watch that is suitable for everyday wear, and whose design is in harmony with its functionality. The design, finishing, comfort and ease-of-use of this new model are particularly pleasing, and the only real drawback is the difficulty in reading the elapsed time.
The Breitling Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission is therefore the right companion for sports and everyday missions, whether by day or, as the name suggests, by night.
Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 2022 42mm and 44mm Watch
Breitling’s new SuperOcean Automatic collection for 2022 is as vast and varied as the many seas and oceans of the world that they’re designed to dive in. There are 16 individual references in total, which is a lot but thankfully I only have two in front of me, which is much easier to review. Specifically, I have Breitling’s 2022 SuperOcean Automatic 42mm dark blue and 44mm turquoise.
When they first arrived at Oracle Time HQ, I was initially quite dismissive of them. I struggled to think of them as anything other than Breitling’s take on a Doxa, especially as bright colours are practically a Doxa signature these days. But having spent time with them, I can’t deny that they’ve grown on me.
The first aspect that started to win me over was their cases. Both versions here are stainless steel, although several of the 16 references are bronze or steel and gold bi-colour. To me, steel is the most natural material for a dive watch. It’s sporty without sacrificing on the satisfying heft of weight that more advanced materials like titanium lack. Plus, the durability means scratches are less of an issue than on a gold model. But the real killer aspect of the cases is the way they sit on the wrist. The 42mm is a dream and the 44mm (a size I usually wouldn’t consider) feels perfectly reasonable. That’s largely because their heights are such that they slip easily under a cuff, the 44mm is only 12.6mm high. The crown guards are shapely and satisfying rather than bulky. I’d still advise caution for the 46mm versions though, unless you’re built like a tank, because they have an additional bezel locking mechanism on the left of the case that makes the bigger diameter even more pronounced. But that’s not an issue with the two here. With the case starting to win me around, I took a moment to re-evaluate my thoughts on the dials. The 42mm has a deep blue colour for the central area and hour scale (which matches the colour of the ceramic inlay unidirectional rotating bezel) and a white minutes scale around the outside. The 44mm is slightly more complex as the centre portion and bezel aren’t colour matched, the dial being turquoise and the bezel black.The contrast between the minute scale and hour scale reminds me of the tachymeter on the recent Breitling Navitimer Chronograph Collection. However, the chunky baton indexes coated with SuperLuminova give the SuperOcean 42mm and 44mm strong retro dive watch aesthetics.
In fact, the display was inspired by a 1960s SuperOcean nicknamed the ‘Slow Motion’, a fact best seen in the modern watches’ square minutes hand. That hand is definitely the hardest part of the design to swallow – almost as if Breitling is trying too hard to create a “signature” hand design. But let’s be honest with ourselves, it’s no more outlandish than Tudor’s Snowflake or Rolex’s Mercedes hand. Unfortunately, the one element of the Breitling SuperOcean 42mm and Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 44mm that I find tricky to reconcile is the movement inside. It’s the Breitling Calibre 17, an automatic calibre based on the ETA 2824-2 with a 38-hour power reserve. In a microbrand dive watch I can take that, for Breitling it’s subpar. It also feels a tad lazy to use a single calibre for a collection of watches with such diverse case sizes from 36mm to 46mm, surely there were more options available at the larger sizes.
However, at the end of my time with these two watches, a single gripe about the movement is hardly the end of the world for a collection of watches I was ready to set aside and not look back. If I were to pick one up, it would be the 44mm turquoise, the colour is too good.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43
It’s iconic. It’s complicated. It’s the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43. Without a doubt, the Navitimer is Breitling’s flagship model. When you think of Breitling, an image of the circular slide rule bezel surrounding three subdials is the first thing likely to pop into your head.
My dad and I always talk about space and aviation. It’s been a staple topic of conversation since I was a little kid. Aerospace has been my dad’s passion since he was a child. Over many decades he’s passed that same interest on to me. Whenever I mention the Omega Speedmaster to him, my dad quickly reminds me (in the way dads do), “…you know? The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 is the real space watch.”
There is an element of truth in that statement. Dads are usually right and modern marketing is not always consistent with history. Omega wasn’t the first to market watches with astronauts just as the United States space program didn’t start with a Moon landing. A vintage Breitling advertising campaign depicts the (at the time) larger-than-life NASA Astronaut Scott Carpenter. Scott Carpenter famously wore the Breitling Cosmonaut-Navitimer (24hr dial) on the NASA mission Mercury-Atlas 7 (May 24th, 1962). This took place seven years before the Moon landing.
Throughout many iterations since its commercial release in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer continues to retain most of its original design and functional elements. Is there a modern place for yesterday’s analog pilot’s tool in today’s upscale modern life? As a fashion item, sure, but what about as a useful tool? To assess the Navitimer B01 we will look at the watch with a critical eye, but we will also provide instructions for operating the watch’s slide rule bezel in order to focus on its often overlooked functionality as a tool.
The Navitimer that Breitling lent me for review came on a black calfskin leather strap with a tang-type buckle. The leather strap felt substantial between the Navitimer’s 22mm wide lugs. Breitling wisely chose a thick leather to back up the proportions of the 43mm Navitimer. The calfskin strap tapered from 22mm to 18mm at the buckle and was slightly padded. In the interest of full disclosure, I swapped the Breitling strap for a Barton Silicone Elite because I don’t care for leather. That is just a personal preference and does not take away from the high-quality Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 leather strap. With the five options listed above, you can find something you’ll like, for sure.
