In collaboration with Hodinkee, Swiss watch brand Longines presents the new limited edition Longines Spirit Zulu Time model made entirely of Grade 5 titanium. Limited to 500 numbered pieces, this 39mm automatic watch comes with chronometer certification by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
Available in 42mm and 39mm versions, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time owes its name to the first Longines wristwatch with dual time zones, produced in 1925 and featuring the Zulu flag on its dial – Zulu referring to the letter Z which designates the universal time used by aviators and members of the armed forces.
The name and number of the piece are engraved on the screw-down back. Its bi-directional, circular-brushed titanium bezel features a laser-engraved 24-hour scale. The screw-down crown, also in titanium, allows the time zone and time setting to be set independently. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Limited Edition for Hodinkee features a 39 mm diameter case, crafted from Grade 5 titanium – an alloy both lighter and tougher than steel. Beating inside this watch is the exclusive Longines L844.4 calibre. Equipped with a silicon balance-spring and innovative components, it offers a magnetic resistance ten times greater than the ISO 764 benchmark standard. Providing a power reserve of up to 72 hours, this self-winding mechanical movement is chronometer certified by COSC. Topped by a domed sapphire crystal, the sandblasted anthracite dial is flanked by a date window at 3 o’clock. The applied hour-markers and Arabic numerals, as well as the hands, are in polished PVD-titanium. For optimum legibility, these components are coated with Super- LumiNova light old radium. The matt black GMT hand has an orange tip with a luminescent arrow in the same colour as the “ZULU TIME” inscription on the dial. Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 metres), the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Limited Edition for Hodinkee comes on a new Grade 5 titanium bracelet with double-safety folding clasp.
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Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Verde
With the addition of the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Verde, a beefy, no-nonsense professional diver’s watch (complete a beautiful green lacquered wave dial and helium escape valve) Carl F. Bucherer continues their support of Manta Trust, a UK based organization which endeavors to research and protect Manta Rays the world over.
Each year, in the waning summer months of August and September, massive schools of Manta Rays numbering over 22,000 are found along the shores of Isla de la Plata in Ecuador. Floating through the clear, warm, aquamarine waters like oceanic angels, the majestic and somewhat mysterious spectacle draws thousands of tourists to this paradise each year. But the onslaught of threats against marine wildlife is ever present and unrelenting, and the ethereal manta ray is no exception. For with those well-meaning visitors brings a myriad of ecological pressures, the impacts of which are just now beginning to be understood.
In the continuation of a philanthropic partnership spanning the past decade, Carl F. Bucherer has released their latest dive watch, the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Verde, in support of Manta Trust. The Patravi Scubatec is the most robust and capable diver that Carl F. Bucherer currently produces and joins the collection now in a vibrant green colorway – the undulating wave pattern upon its lacquered dial mirroring the pulsing motion of the warm, tropical, Ecuadorian waters.
Rated to a depth of 500 meters, the muscular 44.6mm stainless steel case is no mere desk diver. On the contrary, in addition to the normal trappings of a proper, professional dive watch (ceramic green bezel insert, sapphire crystal, screw down crown and water-resistant gaskets throughout) the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Verde also boasts an automatic helium escape valve. In keeping with the environmental spirit of this collaboration, the matching green rubber strap, which comes complete with a folding clasp and fine adjustment along with a dive extension, incorporates recycled PET plastic into its construction. Make no mistake – Carl F. Bucherer intends these COSC certified watches to be used diving to the depths and preferably marveling at the miraculous marine wildlife that calls our oceans home.
Upon the screw down caseback is a serene engraving of two manta rays, symbols of the collaboration between Carl F. Bucherer and Manta Trust. Formed in 2011, Manta Trust was established with the goal of conducting global research projects focusing on manta rays and their natural environments in the furtherance of conservation efforts. During its over ten years of existing, Manta Trust has been instrumental in creation of multiple international protections for manta rays under the CITES treaty. In furtherance of the goal to better understand and protect manta rays, the Patravi Scubatec Verde’s announcement coincides with an exciting undertaking – a two-week, in-depth study of the manta ray gathering off the coast of Isla de La Plata. This study, which will be conducted with researchers from Manta Trust and Proyecto Mantas Ecuador, will be fully funded by Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Verde.
The world of luxury, with its craftsmanship, artistic intention, and fine, opulent details, is all well and good. Sometimes, beautifully made things exist for the sake of themselves – beauty for the sake of beauty. Indeed, this is among the core reasons for many an artistic endeavor. But, in a day and age when the world is teetering upon the precipice on utter ruin on multiple fronts – economic, geo-political, and perhaps most urgently, environmental – it is not enough for companies to relish the fruits of fortune and wealth. No, companies must endeavor to do good as well. This can, of course, come in many forms, from offsetting the impact of their production through responsible manufacturing practices, to using their not so insignificant presence to amplify the messages of a meaningful cause.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar
The new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar from Swiss luxury watch brand Carl F. Bucherer is available in striking colorways ideal for contemporary urban lifestyles. This high-end mechanical timepiece combines a perpetual calendar, a moon-phase display and a peripherally mounted automatic winding system.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar displays the leap year, date, day, month and moon phase in a small window and four sub-dials. The moon-phase complication is an exquisite piece of craftsmanship in itself. It is comprised of hand-engraved hemispheric rose gold moons on aventurine.
As the name suggests, this watch incorporates a peripherally mounted automatic winding system. With a bidirectional oscillating Weight that turns on three frictionless ceramic ball-bearings housed in shock- absorbing mountings, this ensures that the view of the movement from the caseback is never obscured. Integrating all these components and boasting a 55-hour power reserve, the self-winding CFB A2055 Calibre exemplifies the watchmaking finesse of Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Dressed in an 18K rose gold case, the CFB Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar is available in four dial versions: Black, green, taupe and rose.
Each Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar features a sunray-brushed dial center and opaline index zone, with rose-gold-plated wedge index marks to complement the case. Dials are color-matched to calf skin straps that feature a Milky Way texture, quick release system and 18K rose gold pin-lock folding clasp.
tudor pelagos fxd chrono
Big news today from Tudor as the brand has launched two new Tudor Pelagos FXD variations in celebration of its partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, an America’s Cup yacht racing team. With a new chronograph and both models rocking carbon composite cases, it’s a big change from the Tudor Pelagos FXD‘s original military-derived intent, so let’s get to the details.
With one time-only model (ref 25707KN) coming in at 42mm and a brand new chronograph (25807KN) – a first for any Pelagos model – coming in at 43mm, both of these new FXDs have matte blue dials with red accents (think: Red Bull). Additionally, both use matte black carbon composite cases and have matching 120-click bi-directional titanium bezels set with carbon inserts that have fully-luminous 60-minute countdown scales.
The crown – and for the chrono, the pushers – are done in titanium, and the time-only model uses the Tudor MT5602 (the same as the standard FXD) while the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono uses the MT5813 (which we’ve seen used in all manner of Black Bay Chronos). Both movements are COSC-certified chronometers, have 70 hours of power reserve, and beat at 4Hz). Those of you who prefer a date function will be happy to see one included at six o’clock on the chronograph.
Aside from the coloring, the direct references to the racing team are kept to a small nameplate at 12 o’clock on the rehaut (the minute marking ring that surrounds the edge of the dial), and a stainless steel case back featuring an engraving for the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team.
Similar to the original Tudor Pelagos FXD, both of the Alinghi models have fixed bars and come on a one-piece fabric strap that uses a hook-and-loop closure system. The time-only model costs $3,675, while the chronograph has a price tag of $5,075. Call me surprised, but I definitely didn’t expect this evolution of the FXD. Carbon cases? A chronograph? It’s a wild move that represents the most tech-forward evolution of the Pelagos since the model was introduced. Perhaps unsurprisingly, I’m here for it.
The watch world has long been fascinated by yacht racing, and that fascination has led to some really great watches made in conjunction with the various teams that battle for America’s Cup. Tudor started its partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing in 2022, and if you want a tough yacht racing-ready watch that can pull direct inspiration from the boat raced by the team, a carbon-cased Tudor Pelagos FXD chronograph seems like a great way to go about the task. This is also the first time that the material has been used for a production watch from Tudor (or a certain other sister brand).
The longer I look at the photos, the more I like the raw technical impression of the matte blue dial surrounded by the dark matte black of the carbon case. Additionally, I really dig the contrast of the titanium pushers/crown alongside the subtle carbon finish of the bezel insert. As for the weight figures, I have asked for the information and will update this story as soon as I can.
With or without the Alinghi Red Bull Racing connection, I can see both of these new FXDs being very popular among the Pelagos set. And despite the larger sizing (which should be in part mitigated by the case material), the chronograph feels like the stand-out from this racy new pair of Tudor Pelagos FXD. It represents another considerable evolution in the bloodline of the Pelagos as the line continues to represent the cutting-edge of Tudor’s work in truly modern sports watches.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358
If you’ve ever delved deep into Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 catalog, you may have noticed a fascinating assortment of high-jewelry watches, some of which include “mobile setting” whereby diamond-set petals sway to mimic floral nastic movement. I’ve seen one of these Breguet Crazy Flower watches in action, and the crazy part of the name is apt. I bring this up to emphasize that Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 takes its gem-setting very seriously; I’d say as seriously as the intricate watch complications it’s famous for. So, just in time for sparkle season, Breguet adds two new gem-set tourbillon models that merge high jewelry and high horology in dramatic fashion. Available in white gold or rose gold and blanketed in diamonds, the new Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 watches showcase the complex whirling mechanism that founder A.-L. Breguet was responsible for inventing, along with other design details that have become signatures of the brand. The first of the dazzling diamond pair is the Starlit Night, which features a white gold case, a varnished midnight blue mother-of-pearl dial, and a midnight blue alligator leather strap. The dial is decorated with a shower of diamond-set white gold stars while the shooting star-shaped tourbillon bridge is embellished with 45 snow-set diamonds and punctuated with a blue spinel at the center that serves as a pivoting stone for the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 carriage. The other new Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 watch is the Stunning Sight, furnished with a rose gold case, a dial set with 281 diamonds, and a crimson-red alligator leather strap. There’s also the natural white mother-of-pearl chapter ring that frames the off-centered time display and its smile-shaped rose gold tourbillon bridge is set with 14 diamonds. Both models include an oval-shaped aperture at 6 o’clock for a view of the one-minute tourbillon, a rose-cut diamond set into the crown, diamonds set into the bezel and lugs, and triple folding gold clasps set with 42 diamonds. As is customary for almost all Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 watches, there are the Breguet-style hands, Breguet-style numerals, and fine fluting on the case sides. The cases measure 35mm in diameter (water-resistant to 30 meters) and are fitted with sapphire casebacks for a view of the magnificently engraved hand-wound 187 D movements powering the watches. Caliber 187 D oscillates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz and supplies 50 hours of power reserve.
Petite yet punchy, these high jewelry tourbillons are designed for the maximalist who adheres to the “more is more” philosophy. And to that, I say, why not? When executed to the level of excellence that Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 has achieved here, a women’s diamond tourbillon watch is a spectacular style choice that few can pull off. Clearly, these are not everyday watches for everyday folks, but if you are the type to get invited to events where a diamond tourbillon is appropriate, then Breguet would be the go-to source.
Richard Mille RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne
For its latest new release of 2023, Richard Mille has just announced a new version of the RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne that embraces a crisp black and white colorway with a case that is crafted from white Quartz TPT, Carbon TPT, and titanium. From a design and movement standpoint, the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is hardly a new watch, as this core concept and the RM21-02 movement were both originally unveiled back in 2009 with a set of models that featured cases crafted from 18k gold. However, the new 2023 RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne takes that original concept in an entirely more modern direction with high-tech case materials and a distinctly contemporary overall appearance.
Over the years, Richard Mille has produced several different variations of the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne, although the latest 2023 version is most closely related to last year’s limited-edition model that featured green Quartz TPT case components and orange accents. What this means is that you get Richard Mille’s signature tonneau-shaped case in a format that measures 42.68mm in diameter by 14.3mm thick with a lug-to-lug profile of 50.12mm. However, on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne, the center caseband is made from grade 5 titanium, while the pillars that run down either side of the case and cover the titanium connecting screws are crafted from black Carbon TPT.
The white and black colorway extends throughout the rest of the watch, with the caseback appearing in white Quartz TPT with a clear sapphire display window, while the bezel features a multi-component structure with a black Carbon TPT center section paired with white Quartz TPT segments running down either side for the areas that hold the grade 5 titanium connecting screws. An anti-glare sapphire crystal sits above the dial, water resistance comes in at 50 meters to protect against daily contact, and to complete the entirely white and black color profile, the ventilated strap is made from white rubber with black contrasting inlays.
At the 3 o’clock location on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is a winding crown that appears in white and black to match the rest of the watch, and at the tip of the crown is a titanium button, which serves as the watch’s function selector switch. Just like a number of other Richard Mille watches, including previous models based upon this platform, the crown on the Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne does not pull outwards at all, and instead pressing the button on the tip of the crown lets you swap between the different modes (winding, setting, and neutral), in somewhat of a similar fashion to how a transmission works on a car.
The dial layout on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is virtually the same as what can be found among previous executions of the model, and it features a skeletonized pair of centrally-mounted hands for the hours and minutes, along with a clear sapphire dial and applied Arabic numeral hour markers. The tourbillon symmetrically resides at 6 o’clock, while the indicator for the function selector switch appears with its own dedicated hand directly next to the 4 o’clock hour marker.
Meanwhile, placed near the very top of the dial are two additional multi-colored, arc-shaped displays, with the one on the left serving as a power reserve indicator, while the other is a torque indicator that provides information about the chronometry quality of the tension in the mainspring. Basically, what this offers is a visual representation of how accurately the watch will run depending on the amount of tension in the mainspring. Above or below a certain point, accurately will suffer, and the torque display is intended to help users achieve optimum timekeeping performance.
Lastly, sitting visible though the transparent dial along either side of the display on the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is a mainplate crafted from HAYNES 214, which is an alloy consisting of nickel, chromium, aluminum, and iron that is capable of withstanding temperatures in excess of 955 degrees Celsius (1,751 degrees Fahrenheit). The geometric honeycomb pattern of the HAYNES 214 mainplate provides extreme stiffness with a low thermal expansion coefficient, and the alloy has been given a jet-black PVD finish to match the rest of the colorway of this particular model.
Powering the new 2023 Richard Mille RM 21-02 Tourbillon Aerodyne is the same Caliber RM21-02 manual-wind movement, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The bridges of the movement are all crafted from grade 5 titanium, and in addition to featuring a function selector switch, tourbillon, and three additional indicators dedicated to the crown function, torq display, and power reserve, the Cal. RM21-02 also incorporates a modular time-setting assembly that can be removed through the caseback whenever adjustments or maintenance are needed, and this means that routine work can be performed without having to dismantle the movement from the mainplate or even remove the dial and hands from the watch.
Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC
Despite a relatively young 32-year brand history, Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic has built a rich and varied back catalog of models throughout its run. One of the proudest nameplates in the marque’s history is the Highlife collection, originally launched in 1999 as a new integrated bracelet flagship for the company. While the Highlife would go on to become one of the most distinctive and influential models in the brand’s history, the Highlife collection has faded into the archives of Frederique Constant in the past few years. As part of its 2020 novelties, Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic has unveiled a new generation of Highlife watches, featuring streamlined new integrated case designs, dramatically etched dials, and refined, dependable movement work including Frederique Constant’s first ever COSC certified chronometer watch. Not one but three new models have been announced, including the Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, the Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic Heart Beat, and the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC. We’ll be taking a closer in-depth look at the Highlife Heart Beat and Highlife Automatic COSC models here today.
Both new lines share a new 41mm integrated bracelet case in stainless steel. Streamlined and clean with an unguarded pillbox crown and a narrow polished bezel, the main body of the case takes on a smooth, vaguely hexagonal form with fine brushing. The delicate contouring work along the case sides allows the case to flow organically around the wrist, creating a smooth and streamlined continuous curve that is as comfortable as it is attractive. With a design so dedicated to the concept of visual flow, the integration of the lugs into the main body of the case is a must. The smooth, rounded half-moon cutout surrounding the integrated link helps to maintain this sense of flow into the bracelet or strap with an evocative, elegant form.
All new Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic models are also available with rose gold plating, with variants for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC available in a two-tone finish. In addition, the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat and Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC are available with all-over rose gold plated variants. Regardless of the metal used, each new Frederique Constant Highlife provides a striking window into the beating mechanical heart of the watch through a sapphire display caseback.
Like the cases, the dials of the new Highlife series models combine refined modern sports watch cues in exciting and distinctive ways to create a handsome and cohesive whole. All new Highlife series share the same pointed paddle handset with matching indices, but without a doubt, the unifying visual centerpiece for all these new models are the engraved dials. Frederique Constant opts for a stylized globe pattern here, giving the design some geometric depth while differentiating itself from more common tapisserie or striped styles. This pattern is surprisingly adaptable as well, displaying vibrantly on navy blue and black dials while lighter silver dials have this engraving fading elegantly into the background.
From here, the new model lines diverge as each iteration takes on its own character. The simplest and most pure expression is of course the Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC, with an elemental three-hand design unfettered by complications save for a 3 o’clock date. Unlike many contemporary open heart designs, the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat displays a deft visual balance, with the signature 12 o’clock open heart window counterweighted by the dial text at 6 o’clock. The end result is a brilliant synergy between simple design and the ornate mechanical workmanship within. For the Frederique Constant Highlife Heart Beat, the brand turns to the Sellita SW300-1 based FC-310 automatic movement, chosen for its 12 o’clock balance wheel, steady 38-hour power reserve, and 28,800 bph beat rate. Lastly, Frederique Constant powers the Highlife Automatic COSC with the Sellita SW200-1 based FC-303 automatic movement. This is the first Frederique Constant movement to be chronometer certified by the COSC for accuracy, with a 38-hour power reserve and a 28,800 bph beat rate. Both movements are dramatically crowned with a custom signed gold-tone rotor, finely finished with delicate Côtes de Genève. Naturally, one of the largest selling points for the entire new Frédérique Constant Highlife Automatic series is the smooth integrated design, and without a proper bracelet and strap selection, this sort of design simply isn’t possible. The brand delivers solidly on this front, however, with a wide tapering H-link design that pairs polished center links to brushed surroundings for a dynamic, layered look. For those preferring straps, there’s a tapering padded alligator pattern leather option in either black or a deep tobacco brown.
Corum Admiral 42 Automatic Ceramic
Over six decades ago, Corum presented their Admiral collection that was inspired by sailing races. Today, the collection not only stays true to its historical achievements but also embraces its evolution to deliver some of the most contemporary and exquisite iterations that are best known for their dodecagonal bezel and vibrant nautical pennants on the watch face. With even more passion and commitment, the Swiss luxury watchmakers have combined their design language with horological innovation to add ceramic models to the Admiral collection. These newest timepieces also empower Corum to provide eco-conscious options, aligning with the eco-friendly properties of ceramic materials. The new Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches stand out for their remarkable lightness, and not to mention ceramic’s vigour that makes the iterations resistant to both scratches and oxidation. Available in ceramic and gold, the four new references are a bold and beautiful blend of materials and style.
Part of the bleeding-edge Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection, Corum have unveiled a spectacular timepiece that beautifully melds ceramic and 18-karat 5N gold. Available in two iterations—one in black and the other in white—the timepiece is an amalgamation of audacious design and regal elegance that make for a brilliant wrist presence. The two models have been paired with matching vulcanised rubber straps. The accents in gold for the indexes and hands, along with the gold bezel, create a rich look for the dial. These exceptional 42mm Admiral watches are also capable of withstanding the challenges of sailing adventures, boasting a water resistance rating of up to 50m.
Expanding the Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection are two other references that use the expression of graffiti to craft captivating dials. The first reference in this remarkable collection is the Admiral 42 Tag, a limited-edition with only 50 pieces available, making it a highly coveted ceramic watch. The Corum tag logo on its dial is a charismatic design that comes to life when it glows in the dark. This timepiece not only captures the dynamic energy of graffiti but also promises stealth with its 42mm sandblasted black case, complemented by a lightweight and comfortable black NATO strap. The second in the series, fashioned from white ceramic, boldly reimagines design with playful multi-coloured paint adorning its indexes and hands. The Tag timepieces, as well as the ceramic and gold variants, are powered by the C0 395 automatic movement, operating at a frequency of 28,800vph and delivering a 40-hour power reserve. With the Corum Admiral 42 Ceramic watches collection, which offers a series of timepieces exuding elegance and extending rugged endurance, Corum strike a perfect balance between its illustrious heritage and modern ingenuity.
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon phase
First released in 2016, the Senator Excellence collection has soon become the “new classic” of Glashütte Original, with a combination of timeless German design, a contemporary approach of elegance, a powerful and precise movement and a large choice of complications. While rather traditional at first regarding the look of the dials, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase collection has seen the arrival of more expressive designs over the years, such as this appealing salmon QP. Now, it’s time for some more contemporary dials to join the collection, with 2 new Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar references and 2 new Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase models. Today’s release is all about the addition of new dial styles to the classic QP and Moon/Date models of the Senator Excellence collection. As a reminder, this range of watches was released in 2016 with the goal of setting new standards for the brand. While rather traditional in terms of design, being clearly inspired by Saxon watchmaking, the main interest of the Senator Excellence was the introduction of a new generation of movements, the Calibre 36. Modern, powerful, nicely decorated and elegantly designed, it also came with a strong precision, confirmed by an extended testing procedure. We’ve explained this in this in-depth article. The whole point now is to talk about the new dials, which are different depending on the material chosen for the case. Apart from these far more modern models here, with their textured dials and applied markers, most Senator Excellence watches were available with elongated Roman numerals (typical Saxon) painted in black on the dial. While these are still used in the 4 new references of today, Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase has decided to change things. Red gold versions of the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar and Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase here feature a finely grained dial with silver galvanic treatment combined with applied numerals and hands in solid gold. The steel versions are a bit bolder still, with a grained dial with grey galvanic treatment, applied gold numerals coated in blue and blued steel hands. This style has been first seen in the revamped Senator Chronometer here. For the rest, no evolutions are to be noted. The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar still comes in a case of 42mm x 12.8mm, while the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moonphase keeps it slightly smaller at 40mm x 12.2mm. In both instances, the case is either steel or red gold, features brushed and polished surfaces, sapphire crystals on both sides and a decent water-resistance of 50m. The gold versions are worn on a brown alligator nubuck leather while steel models can be ordered either on a blue alligator or a blue fabric strap. At the heart of the perpetual calendar is the Glashütte Original calibre 36-12, an automatic movement with a 4Hz frequency, a comfortable 100h power reserve, an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and a swan-neck fine-adjustment system. The same base movement is used for the Moon Phase Panorama date model, but here known as the calibre 36-24. These movements here come with a new skeletonised double-G logo and oscillating mass in 21-carat gold. The extended testing procedure, which is done over the course of 24 days, guarantees the precision and stability of these movements.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan
Whenever Greubel Forsey creates a new watch, the timepiece unveiled to the public is never just a new dial variation of an existing model. However, some novelties represent greater innovations than others, and as its latest new release of 2023, Greubel Forsey has announced what it calls its 8th Fundamental Invention: the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan. Although Greubel Forsey has created a new heavy-hitter watch that will be available for sale to the public, the bigger story here is the technology behind the movement, which represents a new approach to the tourbillon complication. Featuring an ultra-fast rotation combined with a 30-degree inclined plane and two constantly tilting mounting rings, the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan promises optimal chronometric precision, while simultaneously creating a highly dynamic and striking presentation of one of horology’s most prestigious complications. As for the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan watch itself, the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan features a fairly simple round-shaped case that is made from hand-finished titanium, and it is furnished with a signed winding crown at 3 o’clock and sapphire crystals fitted to both the dial side of the watch and its screw-on display caseback. The middle case measures 45.5mm in diameter, while the bezel is slightly wider at 46mm, and although the case itself measures 13.81mm thick, the total height of the watch comes in at 18.15mm once you factor in the heavily domed sapphire crystal that covers the mechanical structures that reside on the dial-side of its display. Water resistance for the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is 30 meters to protect against incidental contact, and the lugs are completed by a black hand-sewn strap with a signed titanium folding clasp that is made from what is simply referred to as a “non-animal material” within the official press materials for the watch. Realistically speaking, the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is really just a watch intended to showcase a truly impressive 389-component movement, which sits fully visible through both sides of the case. Additionally, just like nearly all of Greubel Forsey’s creations, the movement components play an integral role in the overall aesthetic of the watch, and the large Cardan Tourbillon occupies just as much real estate on the dial of this new model as the elevated and open-worked structure that is dedicated to displaying the time. As far as what you are actually looking at when viewing the dial of the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan, the time appears on the upper right-hand side of the display, the running seconds are presented on the sub-dial below it at the 4 o’clock location, and the power reserve indicator is placed directly next to the hours and minutes on the upper left-hand side of the display. Lastly, rounding out the dial is the watch’s namesake Cardan Tourbillon, which prominently occupies the rest of the space and even cuts into the elevated ring that contains the hour markers and minute track. So, what exactly is a Cardan Tourbillon? In short, it is Greubel Forsey’s new approach to the tourbillon that is intended to maximize the complication’s potential for chronometric precision. It combines three core technologies consisting of a high-speed tourbillon, a 30-degree incline, and a pair of tilting mounting rings. Naturally, the tourbillon serves as the heart of this mechanism, although rather than rotating once every minute like the standard version of this complication, the tourbillon inside the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan makes one complete rotation in just 16 seconds, which represents the fastest-moving tourbillon that the brand has put forward yet. By moving through more positions in less time, the tourbillon can work more effectively to average out positional variation. However, Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan also mounts the tourbillon at a 30-degree angle, which optimizes it for the specific positions experienced by a wristwatch, versus the traditional parallel mounting method that was originally conceived for clocks and pocket watches. The final technology that Greubel Forsey incorporates to create its Tourbillon Cardan are a pair of mobile mounting rings, which are connected by two 90-degree axes that tilt backward and forwards every 48 seconds. The tilt of the rings is controlled (+30 degrees to -30 degrees) in order to work in conjunction with the fixed 30-degree incline of the tourbillon, and the end goal here is to create a better ratio of angular velocity to chronometric performance. The movement itself runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz), and thanks to the use of four co-axial mounted mainspring barrels, the manually-wound movement inside the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan is able to offer a chronometric power reserve of 80 hours. Additionally, it’s worth noting that this 80-hour figure pertains only to the chronometric reserve of the watch, and while accuracy will likely start to diminish after this point, the actual total duration of autonomy does exceed this already rather generous value.
Just as you would expect from a Greubel Forsey watch, everything on the Tourbillon Cardan is expertly hand-finished, and some components require up to three days alone to complete. A titanium mainplate is combined with bridges crafted from frosted nickel silver, while the titanium tourbillon cage is finished with straight-grained flanks, polished bevels, and a barrel-polished arch, with more than 30 hours of work going into just the finishing of this single component. The multi-level dial is crafted from gold with open-worked pillars to create a highly architectural aesthetic, while the registers for the running seconds display and power reserve indicator are also crafted from gold before being engraved and lacquered to provide them with their final appearance. The lower plate is frosted by hand, the mounting rings for the tourbillon are matte-finished with polished bevels and brushed flanks, and every single surface of the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan has been carefully decorated to create a striking timepiece that showcases a multitude of different textures and finishing techniques.
